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Samsung Dishwasher DW80R9950 Manual / Diagnostic Mode Help? (Waterwall issue)


Premium Member
Nov 28, 2022
san diego
Model Number
1-5 years
I am helping a friend fix a ~3 year old DW80R9950US/AA. Initially, the reflector bar "van" was going back and forth without stopping, he suspected the magnet and replaced it. Then the arm stopped moving, so he suspected the motor.

I ordered a motor, the old one was pretty rusty.. After replacing, everything seems mechanically fine (though the drive belt is a little noisy).

Now the vane moves more or less randomly, and the dishes on the bottom rack are rarely cleaned. I ran a camera inside, and it'll go through its initial tests, but then just goes to the front and sits there for the whole cycle, jets running. The behavior isn't super consistent, and as I don't know what it is suppose to do, I don't know if it is behaving wrong.

I've seen you can get the earlier versions into a diagnostic mode. I would like to know how to do this for this specific washer. Any supporting documentation would be appreciated (can I command the vane to position, read codes, or check that the Hall-effect magnet sensor works?

Apparently I can pay people to come out and look at it, and if it's a 'linear motion part or board' it's covered after the $150 diagnostic fee. Kinda a lame warranty where even seeing if you can use it costs 1/4 of the whole thing. Anyway, I'd like to exhaust my options first, or better understand what's actually wrong.

I was just responding on a different thread when I saw your question below. I have same model as you are working on and I used the attached service manual. Good luck

My response on the other thread

I used the attached service manual - starting at page 52. My dishwasher is a different model but it was close enough. You might have to search out the specific key combinations for your model to get into the service mode. I was receiving different error codes - one code if I attempted to run a cycle vs another when running the service test mode. Using the service test mode I then ran each of "n" test until I reached the one that failed which helped me narrow things down a bit. My solve was replacing a bad ground and the yellow wire coming off the soap dispenser - probably not your solution but this manual was very helpful to me with finding the problem.


  • DW80J99 DW80J75 Samsung Service-Manual (1).pdf
    2 MB · Views: 267
The stuff in that manual seems to be for an earlier version of the machine. On my machine, ATUO-DELICATE-POWER doesn't do anything.

However, I noted by watching the tech closely:

To Enter Service Test on Samsung DW80R9950US/AA:
  • Set timer for 17H
  • Hold down hi-temp wash about 10 seconds
    • Until AS on display
  • Close lid
Hope this helps someone. I also hope my dishwasher just starts working. :)
Hello All,
I have a Samsung DW80R9950 and also a problem with the waterwall.
The vane moves but I can easily block it with minimal hand force and then it starts moving the other way. Is it supposed to be super easy to block? I mean, isn't that a mechanism to prevent self-destruction if something blocks the vane? Or simply the normal way it changes direction when it hit the front end of travel, since therer is no end of travel sensor here?
Otherwise, here is the behavior :
- if I open the door in the middle of a cycle, the vane is always parked on the back (near the jets)
- if I manually pull it in the middle position then restart the cycle (door opened, with the door sensor cheated), the vane moves to the front then go back and indefinitely park there, near the jets

I can confirm that the hall sensor is working good with a magnet I manually get close to the sensor location when the vane is running toward the back.
I can also confirm that the magnet in the vane arm is good : if I detach the vane arm from the sliding thing, the thing keeps bouncing from back to front (until timeout and error). When the arm is in place, as soon as the arm reaches the back, it stops.

To summarize : motor moves both direction and initializes properly. Magnet and sensor are good.
So either the dishwasher is dumb and does not "want" anymore to move the arm (defective control board?) or the motor is too weak?
I removed the motor, it was all rusty. I deeply cleaned it and removed all rust. Sure, I should replace the motor but it is pretty expensive, I want to be totally sure before I order a new one. Since the motor moves, I'm not 100% sure it's the motor vs the control board.

Any advice?
Hi - my experience, maybe it will help. I just posted this on a different thread and saw your question. Good luck.

This is the thread -

Hi, My experience was the waterwall would perform normally and would travel to the front and then return to back as it should. Water would begin to flow into the dishwasher and the rotating arm would start to spin like a normal cycle should and then I had to close the door to keep water from spraying everywhere. Once I closed the door it would error out. I don't remember the error code but it was a different error code vs the code I would get when the running diagnostic process. After messing around with it for a stupid number of hours I noticed it would error out when the door was closed past a certain point. I began checking the wire harnesses at that point. I replaced two but it might have only been one that was bad - It was the yellow or orange wire coming from the soap dispenser and the ground on the front door. The yellow or orange wire was bad somewhere between the connector at the dispenser and the molex connector inside where the main wiring harness passes thru the door. That was easy to find by ohming (if that is a word) out the wires in the main harness to the connectors. When I replaced the wire and put everything back together certain that everything was ready, I ran the test mode received a different error. Then I realized I had the two connectors in in this picture reversed. Switched them and things have worked since. I think it was by using the service process where you manually step thru the "n" diagnostic mode that helped me discover at which point in the test cycle it would fail which pointed me to the component associated with that process. I did a lot of forum searching and did come across another person that had similar issue with the wire harness. It could have also just been pure luck and something reset or there was loose connecter that got connected back while messing around with it but it was worked fine since. Best of luck, hope this helps you or someone else. I got lucky, I think it would have been a costly repair for tech because they would start replacing parts (Motors and control board) that were fine and it would have been multiple trips because the issue was so random based on the door position.

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