blackbird307
Premium Member
- Model Number
- DV350AER
- Brand
- Samsung
- Age
- 1-5 years
Hello all,
I have a customer with a refurbished Samsung DV350AER who initially phoned me about an excessive noise. I had replaced the rollers in it as they had failed and that problem has resolved. A few days after replacing the rollers, customer phoned me back to say that the heat had stopped working. Upon returning with a heating coil kit, I had noticed that the high cut off thermal fuse had blown. I replaced it, along with the thermostat and heating coil. The very next day I received a phone call stating that the dryer had worked once and then no heat again the second time.
Heating element kit included:
- DC47-00018A - High cut-off thermostat
- DC96-00887A - High temperature cut-off thermal fuse
- DC47-00019A - Dryer heating coil
Based on my research the problem could be caused by multiple things such as: DC47-00018A
- Blockage
- Heating coil grounding out
- Bad relay on control board
- Bad thermistor
- Bad thermostat
I have ruled out the above with:
- Investigated ducting and verified there are no blocks and air there is healthy air flow through the exhaust
- There is no visible evidence of the heating coil grounding out, also the circuit breaker in theory would have tripped aswell
- I have read that a bad relay control board could cause this, which makes no sense since if the relay was stuck, the heat would be on the moment you plug it in, also note below point with regards to thermostat
- I tested thermistor and it isn't open or shorted
- Bad thermostat, if it's rated to open the circuit at 260 F and the thermal fuse is rated 320 F. This is the most likely culprit imo.
The thermostat, thermal cut off fuse and heating coil are all in series.
So what I gather above, the thermostat is supposed open at 260F, cutting power to heating element, then re-establishing power at 210 F (50F drop). To me it would make logical sense that if the thermostat was working and opens at 260F, and that the thermal cut off fuse is rated for 320F, it should not be failing. The thermostat is brand new. Why is the thermal cut-off fuse still blowing??? Is it pre-maturely failing or did I install a defective thermostat. Non of this is making any sense.
Based on my research, others are having the same issue, unresolved. Could someone point me in direction of possible cause.
Thanks again
I have a customer with a refurbished Samsung DV350AER who initially phoned me about an excessive noise. I had replaced the rollers in it as they had failed and that problem has resolved. A few days after replacing the rollers, customer phoned me back to say that the heat had stopped working. Upon returning with a heating coil kit, I had noticed that the high cut off thermal fuse had blown. I replaced it, along with the thermostat and heating coil. The very next day I received a phone call stating that the dryer had worked once and then no heat again the second time.
Heating element kit included:
- DC47-00018A - High cut-off thermostat
- DC96-00887A - High temperature cut-off thermal fuse
- DC47-00019A - Dryer heating coil
Based on my research the problem could be caused by multiple things such as: DC47-00018A
- Blockage
- Heating coil grounding out
- Bad relay on control board
- Bad thermistor
- Bad thermostat
I have ruled out the above with:
- Investigated ducting and verified there are no blocks and air there is healthy air flow through the exhaust
- There is no visible evidence of the heating coil grounding out, also the circuit breaker in theory would have tripped aswell
- I have read that a bad relay control board could cause this, which makes no sense since if the relay was stuck, the heat would be on the moment you plug it in, also note below point with regards to thermostat
- I tested thermistor and it isn't open or shorted
- Bad thermostat, if it's rated to open the circuit at 260 F and the thermal fuse is rated 320 F. This is the most likely culprit imo.
The thermostat, thermal cut off fuse and heating coil are all in series.
So what I gather above, the thermostat is supposed open at 260F, cutting power to heating element, then re-establishing power at 210 F (50F drop). To me it would make logical sense that if the thermostat was working and opens at 260F, and that the thermal cut off fuse is rated for 320F, it should not be failing. The thermostat is brand new. Why is the thermal cut-off fuse still blowing??? Is it pre-maturely failing or did I install a defective thermostat. Non of this is making any sense.
Based on my research, others are having the same issue, unresolved. Could someone point me in direction of possible cause.
Thanks again