Samsung Dryer DV42H5200EW/A3 keeps blowing thermal cut off fuse (thermostat)

[oozzzii]

Model Number

DV42H5200EW/A3

Brand

Samsung

Age

6-10 years

I'm experiencing issues with the thermal cut off fuse blowing off after a drying a couple of loads. I really am running out of ideas as to what to try next with this dryer and would welcome advice.

In the mean time, this is something I noticed and didn't pay much attention at first but will correct it. I noticed the wire connecting to the fuse showed burnt insulation spots where it attaches to the terminal connector. I'll cut that burnt part and crimp the connector before installing a new thermal fuse. I already checked the lint trap, vent outside and passage of air, all looked clean..like I said, not sure what else to try.

I

 

[Jake]

Yes, that will need a new female terminal spade.

After you do that--->Put the dryer on the AIR FLUFF/NO HEAT cycle and let it run without clothes in it and see if it gets HOT inside the drum.

Your heating element could be grounded, thus keeping the heating element ON at all times and continually blowing that thermal fuse.

Here's the heating element for your model:
Heating Element DC47-00019A


Jake

 

[oozzzii]

Jake, thank you, I will follow your suggestion. I did check for grounding with a multimeter and no issue there..I hope this is it - opening and close the unit is getting tiring!

 

[Shawnryan111]

I am assuming you are replacing the hi limit thermostat as well. If not you should be.

For what its worth I quit using the Samsung thermal fuses and hi limits because they keep blowing and I had to go back and redo the job. I started using whirlpool ones of the same temperature range. I took the Samsung thermostats out my truck and threw them in the trash.

With that said you need to make sure the dryer isn't overheating. The temperature coming out the back of the dryer should top out at about 170ish. Note don't use an infrared thermometer

The things that can cause it to overheat are the heating element, the thermistor, the main control.

The thermistor should be 10k ohms at room temperature.

 

[Yankeefix]

Jake, thank you, I will follow your suggestion. I did check for grounding with a multimeter and no issue there..I hope this is it - opening and close the unit is getting tiring!

Something I have done in the past (on some models) remove the dryer vent exhaust and you can access the thermal fuse and operating thermostat on the heater box from the back, its not easy and need a lot of light but it's faster than taking the whole front off.

 

[oozzzii]

I am assuming you are replacing the hi limit thermostat as well. If not you should be.

For what its worth I quit using the Samsung thermal fuses and hi limits because they keep blowing and I had to go back and redo the job. I started using whirlpool ones of the same temperature range. I took the Samsung thermostats out my truck and threw them in the trash.

With that said you need to make sure the dryer isn't overheating. The temperature coming out the back of the dryer should top out at about 170ish. Note don't use an infrared thermometer

The things that can cause it to overheat are the heating element, the thermistor, the main control.

The thermistor should be 10k ohms at room temperature.

Thanks for these tips, very helpful. I only replaced the thermostat that failed tests but yeah, if it is already open, why not do both. I did wonder if I could use other brands instead..glad you shared it is possible. I have not tested the temperature or thermistor, will do that.

thank you again!

 

[oozzzii]

Something I have done in the past (on some models) remove the dryer vent exhaust and you can access the thermal fuse and operating thermostat on the heater box from the back, its not easy and need a lot of light but it's faster than taking the whole front off.

I am not sure this is possible with this model..the gap between the heat element assembly and dryer vent exhaust, after removing it, is very narrow maybe 2 inches. Would be very difficult to maneuver in such tight space but will take another look. Thanks for this.

 

[Jake]

Ok, even if the heating element is not grounded, the control board heating element contact could be stuck closed, thus still keeping the heating element ON at all times, even in the AIR DRY/NO HEAT CYCLE.

Yes, Shawn is correct, if you have NO HEAT in the AIR DRY/NO HEAT CYCLE, and the dryer is not overheating, then I'd do what he suggests.

For what its worth I quit using the Samsung thermal fuses and hi limits because they keep blowing and I had to go back and redo the job. I started using whirlpool ones of the same temperature range. I took the Samsung thermostats out my truck and threw them in the trash.

Jake

 

[Shawnryan111]

You definitely need to replace the hi limit its probably why the thermal fuse is blowing. In theory the thermal fuse wouldn't even blow inless the hi limit were bad. Maybe not allways true but both should allways be replaced the fuse is blown

 

[oozzzii]

You definitely need to replace the hi limit its probably why the thermal fuse is blowing. In theory the thermal fuse wouldn't even blow inless the hi limit were bad. Maybe not allways true but both should allways be replaced the fuse is blown

Will be replacing both this weekend, along with the other checks, and report back..all of this has been helpful. thank you