Samsung DV42H5000EW/A3 no heat

[Ekimdoog]

Model Number

DV42H5000EW/A3

Brand

Samsung

Age

6-10 years

I’ve checked all heating components and relay and all good continuity and ohms

I see small heat blister on control board, but hate to spend $250 if that’s not it. Any help would be appreciated

Mike from Maine

 

[Jake]

Yes, I see that too, that's not a good sign. First did you unplug the dryer and ohm test the heating element and thermal fuse on the heater housing?

Here's the thermal fuse on the heater housing:
DC96-00887C

Here's the heating element:
Heating Element DC47-00019A


How to access video in part link.

AGAIN--->Make sure you unplug the dryer first before accessing it and ohm testing it.

Is there a revision number on your model number tag, because I'm showing different control board part numbers based on your revision number.

If your model number is DV42H5000EW/A3-01, Here's the main control board for your model:

Samsung DC92-01596D Main Control Board (AP5916779) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Made for use on a dryer unit, this is a control board. This part is responsible for managing all of the functions of the dryer. These functions include controlling the drying time and the temperature. This component also controls the specific setting.When the control board goes bad, a variety of...

click.linksynergy.com

 

[Ekimdoog]

I did test element, thermostats, thermistors and relay for the heating element on main panel. All good. Any idea what circuit it is that looks fried in the pic?

 

[Ekimdoog]

Model # on machine doesn’t have any numbers after A3 though

 

[Jake]

Any idea what circuit it is that looks fried in the pic?

Not without seeing the board schematic, when Samsung doesn't make available to the public.

Model # on machine doesn’t have any numbers after A3 though

Then it possibly defaults to 00, which is the same board I posted the link to above.

 

[Ekimdoog]

HELP

I just replaced the control board. No change

I re-tested the heat components and get continuity and appropriate ohms readings

Any other ideas?

Thanks
Mike from Maine

 

[Jake]

That's very odd, that new board should of fixed it.

You are absolutely sure the dryer is getting 240 volts?

First, you should have a dual breaker in your home breaker box, find the one that says DRYER, then turn them both OFF, then ON again and see if that fixes it.

If not, I've run into many dryers that will RUN and NOT HEAT or NOT RUN AT ALL on my service calls. You may have a broken wire from one of the hot legs that connects to the terminal block in the back of the dryer.

Unplug your dryer, and pull it out from the wall and remove the metal cover where your power cord connects to your dryer and see if any of the wires have burned.

You would need to check for 220-240 volts at the terminal block with a multimeter.

Put your multimeter leads on both ends of the terminal block, it should read 240 volts.

Remember Black & Red on the ends are HOT, White in the middle is NEUTRAL

Then put one of your meter leads in the middle of your terminal block and one on the end you should read 120 volts, then on the other end you should read 120 volts as well.

Look at this from another member that had this same issue:

(click to enlarge)

 

[Ekimdoog]

Thanks Jake, yes, 240v at the outlet and at main terminal block coming in. Very frustrating. The schematic shows a switch at motor block. Does that confirm the motor is turning before sending power to heating element? Anyway to test that safely? Thanks
Mike

 

[Jake]

Yes Mike, I did remember and locate a thread where our tech @bigbuck did mention that, sorry, that slipped my mind.

Here's the motor for your model:
DC31-00055G Motor


Read what @bigbuck said in his post #3 here:

FIXED - DV42H5200EP Samsung Dryer - Heating Relay not Switching On

Hi, I have a 2 1/2 year old Samsung Front-Loading Dryer (Model # DV42H5200EP) that has stopped heating. I tested the heating relay by probing both the blue and black wires (see attached schematic) on the heating relay individually between ground and measured 120VAC. I then measured the voltage...

www.applianceblog.com

Let us know how it goes.