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FIXED Samsung Elec. Range. Display Blank, Door Locked & Cooktop Burners Work???

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jimbo304

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Location
Texas
Model Number
NE594R0ABSR
Brand
Samsung
Age
1-5 years
Hi all! I have a Samsung Model NE594R0ABSR. It's only been in use 6 months. My wife started a cleaning cycle one evening. When we got up the next morning the display was blank and unresponsive. The oven door was locked & the cooktop was fully fuctional. After speaking to an appliance tech. I was told to check the fuseable link on the rear of the stove. It was fine. I then was told to replace the contol panel. Which I did. Still no response. The display is totally blank, doors still locked and the burners still function fully. There is 240V at the outlet. What next? Looking forward to all replies. Thanks in advance. Jimbo :wall:
 
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Jake

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I can't locate the tech. data sheet on this model. If its only 6 months old you have a full 1 yr. warranty on it from Samsung.

I'd contact Samsung to come out under warranty.

Jake
 

jimbo304

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Location
Texas
Thanks for replying Jake. We bought the model 1.5 years ago during a kitchen renovation. We only moved in 6 months ago. That shoots any warranty work. Any other ideas?
 

Jake

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Oh Ok.

Yes, without a tech. data sheet, I really can't help you.

All appliances come with a tech. data sheet, so yours should have one either in the control console, or underneath the front of your range, or in the back of your range.

Jake
 

jimbo304

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Thanks Jake. I've got it. It says Part No: DG980-01064A-02 If you can't find it I can scan it and send it to you. Appreciate your help. There's two other models this data sheet apparently goes with. NE594R0ABBB, NE594R0ABWW if that helps.
 
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Jake

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Still can't find it. Scan it for me.

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, look on the first wiring diagram.

You will see L2(Red) and N(White) take a voltage reading there. Put one meter probe on L2 and the other meter probe on N and tell me what the voltage reads.

Next you will see L1(Black) and N(White) at the L.V. Trans, do the same there and tell me what the voltage reads.

Here's the clock oven control board for your model below, that's where you take those voltage readings at.

Main Control Board DE92-03045F


Jake
 

jimbo304

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Texas
Hi Jake! Hope you had a good weekend. Here's the reading's. L1-N=120 L2-N=120 L1-L2=240volts. Plug going into L.V. Transformer outlet 0 volts.
 

jimbo304

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Texas
We replaced the control panel earlier. Question?

Hi Jake:) We replaced the control panel earlier. Question: Where does the control panel get it power from. If this is the "plug" that supplies the power to the low voltage transformer of the control panel shouldn't it read 120 volts? I did some digging and found a troubleshooting flowchart for a similar Samsung model. On page 62 of this link. I like a good challenge. lol :wall:
 

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Jake

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Thats about all I know to tell you jimbo, the voltage readings look fine, but that's all I can say at this point.

Its called a control board, and if you already replaced it, then I'm stumped as well, sorry.

You'll need to have Samsung come out and see whats going on.

Jake
 

rickgburton

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OK, if you have 220 VAC at the board but nothing at the LV transformer, it sounds like the thermostat is open. I marked it on the wiring diagram
NE594R.jpg
 

jimbo304

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Location
Texas
Here's what I've found so far...

Untitled.jpgI have 240 volts as indicated. I have 0 voltage at the plug feeding the L.V. transformer. The thermostat shows 0 ohms. (continuity). Just a guess does this mean the problem is in the wiring harness? Thanks
 

rickgburton

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Put one meter lead on the white wire in the LV connector. With the other test lead, touch the black wire (not the black wire next to the white wire in the LV connector) then the red wire where you measured the 220 VAC . You should get 120 VAC both times.
 

rickgburton

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Leave the test lead on the white wire and touch the other lead to each side of the thermostat. If you don't get 120 VAC, follow the black wire on the thermostat back until you get to a splice with 3 black wires. Make sure you turn off the power to the range and cut the splice out. Then use a wire nut to reconnect the three wires. If you get 120 VAC at the thermostat, replace the black wire going to the LV connector.
 

jimbo304

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Location
Texas
Fixed!

Hi Rick :) I'm finally out of the "doghouse" with my better half. She said I was hold her skillets hostage in the locked oven long enough lol. There was a break in the wire between the thermstat and the terminal block. Not enough slack available for a twist connector, so I put in an electrical spade connector. Worked like a champ. When I plugged it in the oven door was still locked. I had to restart the cleaning cycle then cancel it to release the hostage skillets. Thanks for the help. It was a great learning experience for me & truely appreciated. It's going to be a great weekend. Jimbo :biggrin:
 
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