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FIXED Samsung FER300SX/XAA burners and oven not working

meteorsga

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Swainsboro, Ga
Model Number
FER300SX/XAA
Brand
Samsung
Age
6-10 years
Our 8/yo Samsung range stopped functioning. The LED display has been unreadable for a couple of years. Now neither the oven heating elements nor the stovetop burners will come on. The control panel is still lit up.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
108,079
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Nothing pulls up for FE-300SX, please recheck your model number, the closest I come is FER300SX/XAA

Jake
 

meteorsga

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Swainsboro, Ga
Thanks for the reply!
Under Model No. it is FE-300SX, under M\C it is FER300SX/XAA.

A slight more bit of back ground -- the oven had been heating unevenly for several weeks before all the heating units on the range quit working.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Thanks!

It sounds like two problems now, first is the display board has gone bad, 2nd is if you are not getting any heat at all on ANY elements, that indicates a loss of 240 volts to the range or a wire from the terminal block.

The surface elements are separate from the clock oven display board. So you'd need to check your dual breakers in your home breaker box to see if one has tripped. If not, then take a voltage reading at the terminal block where your power cord connects to the range.

You will need a multimeter to do that:
Digital Multimeter DM10T


The outer wires on the terminal block are HOT and the middle is NEUTRAL. Put your meter leads on the two outer wires on the terminal block and see if it reads 240 volts.

Here's the part you will need for the clock oven display:
DE92-03045B Assy Pcb Main


Jake
 

meteorsga

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Swainsboro, Ga
We'd already checked the breakers, they never appeared to have been tripped. There is power going to the range, the oven light, control panel lights etc work. Does the terminal block control these, too?

If I find no voltage at the block, then I suppose the entire block wold need replacing?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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No, if you find no voltage at the terminal block then the problem is in your home electrical breaker box or outlet receptacle.

The range can make the lights come on with 120 volts, but needs 240 volts to heat.:)

Jake
 

meteorsga

Premium Member
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Messages
10
Location
Swainsboro, Ga
That makes sense. I'll get the opportunity to check it tomorrow morning and will check back in then with an update. Thanks so much for your help! :)
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Ok, sounds good, yes keep us posted.

Jake
 

meteorsga

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Messages
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Location
Swainsboro, Ga
Here's how it's gone this morning:
I checked the voltage at the circuit breaker: 120 volts on both poles. Good.

I then checked the voltage at the terminal block. No voltage on the right side, but the block itself was nice and clean, no obvious burns or damage.

I tried to check the voltage at the outlet. I never got anything but I also checked the dryer outlet and got nothing there either. I was thinking my probes weren't long enough but when I tried again I could feel them touching "something" within the outlet??? It's very possible I don't know what I'm doing!!!

Anyway, I then checked the power cord for continuity. At first it seemed okay, but once I'm 9pretty) sure I got nothing on one leg. I tried jiggling that leg. It was quite stiff and I don't know that I did anything.

But I plugged it back in and then checked the terminal block. Now I had power on both poles. I switched on an oven burner and it it worked.
But not for very long.

Maybe it's the outlet, maybe it's the power cord?
 

meteorsga

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Swainsboro, Ga
Apparently one can't edit after so many minutes (which is a good thing surely) so here's a further update in a new post:

Got a new power cord at the local supply store and things seem to be working. The new plug is not as tight a fit into the outlet as the original one, a slight tug and it's coming loose.

When I first turned on the burners they worked -- then switched on and off twice -- then worked consistently. I boiled water.
*****************************************************************************************************************************************
I'm sure we'll still have the inconsistent oven heating problem. Should I start a new post/thread for this problem?

Also, is the clock display board replacement a not-too-difficult job? I have replaced a Samsung microwave control panel board in the past with success, so there's that.

And a big thanks, Jake for all your help so far!
 
Last edited:

Jake

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Got a new power cord at the local supply store and things seem to be working. The new plug is not as tight a fit into the outlet as the original one, a slight tug and it's coming loose.
The plug should be very tight, especially a new power cord plug. So that indicates your will need to replace the 240 receptacle where the power cord plugs into your wall outlet, you will need a electrician to do that for you, unless you've done it before and are comfortable doing it yourself.

Make sure you turn the breaker OFF first if you do it yourself.

Once that receptacle wall out is replaced with a new one, the plug should be very tight and no tugging will make it loose again. That likely the problem with it not heating properly.

Also, is the clock display board replacement a not-too-difficult job?
Its very simple, watch this video below.


Jake
 

meteorsga

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Messages
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Location
Swainsboro, Ga
Thanks for the pcb video *and* for all the help you've been in the past week. I'll be trying to replace the outlet myself, also. It's so nice to have our oven back!
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good, let us know how it goes after you replace the 240 volt outlet receptacle the PCB clock assembly.

Jake
 

meteorsga

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Messages
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Location
Swainsboro, Ga
Jake,
We ordered the PCB board and I installed it. It wasn't too difficult. The clock is blinking, but none of the buttons are responding... :( The top burners are working.

Edit: I did A little googling and apparently all I needed to do was use an eraser on the contact end of the ribbon cable. Buttons are working again!
 
Last edited:

Jake

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You said in your first post this:
The LED display has been unreadable for a couple of years.

The new clock oven display board(LED display) did fix the unreadable problem you had with your old one? The buttons were working with the old one? But was something wrong with the ribbon cable to not work in the new clock oven display board? Or was it just not making good contact with the new clock oven display board until you used the eraser on it?

Glad to hear everything is woking good again. (y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 

meteorsga

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Location
Swainsboro, Ga
Yes, everything seems to be fine now. The buttons were working fine before I swapped the boards, just an unreadable LED. Thanks for all your help!
 

Jake

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Got it!

Thanks.:)

Jake
 
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