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FIXED Samsung Induction Range NE595N0PBSR - Oven and broiler not working

Karlski

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2020
Messages
3
Location
State College, PA
Model Number
NE595N0PBSR
Brand
Samsung
Age
1-5 years
My Samsung induction range’s oven problem started when the oven would only heat up very slowly and could not heat above 240F, when I needed 475F (never a problem in the previous two years of ownership). One day later, the oven and broiler stopped working. No error codes were ever displayed.

The service manual is available online for a similar model, and has guided me in my troubleshooting.

I measured resistance for oven element, broiler element and convection heater and all are within spec. I measured the resistance of the temp sensor at 20° C and 100° C and they are close to spec. The induction elements on the cook top work normally. The door switch operates normally, switching on the light and turning off the convection fan.

When I switch the oven on nothing initially happens and the voltage between the two ends of the heating element is 0.00 V. Then after about a minute, I hear a relay click and the voltage shows a minuscule change (0.02 V) for 10 seconds and then the relay clicks and switches off the power, at which time the voltage goes back to 0.00 V. After a delay of 50 secs this process repeats again. For each repetition, the timing is the same.

When I measure the voltage between either end of the heating element and ground, it goes to 121 V during the 10 second activation phase, and then back to 0 V. (The house voltage across each of the two main circuit hot wires and ground is 121 V.)

When I measure the voltage between the right main circuit hot wire, and either end of the heating element, it switches from 117 V to 242 V during the on period. The voltage across the left circuit hot wire switches from 117 V to 0 V during the on period.

Despite the short period of some voltage being applied to the element for 10 second periods of time, it doesn’t make the floor of the oven even slightly warm to the touch.

I see the exact same behavior with the convection heater. However, there is never any voltage detected in the broiler element when it is turned on, and no clicking of relays.

I checked all wire harnesses for full seating. I did not check continuity in the individual wires as there are no burnt or obviously damaged wires. The Sub-PCB that has the relays is intact (no sign of damage).

I replaced the master PCB and it did not solve the problem.

The next step would be to replace the sub-PCB with the relays for another $100, but I don’t want to throw more money at the problem without a logical explanation of what is happening.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
108,956
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, if the elements on the cooktop work normally then your getting the proper 240 volts to your range.

So the problem would either be the hi-limit thermostat or that sub-PCB, that's the board with the oven relay's on it.

Here's the parts diagram for your model:
#16-1 is your hi-limit thermostat. Make sure the range is unplugged from the wall outlet and then ohm test it for continuity.

Watch this video:

If it ohm tests good, then the only part it can be in the sud-pcb #17:
DE92-03208C Assy Pcb Sub


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Karlski

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2020
Messages
3
Location
State College, PA
Thanks Jake,
The high limit thermostat shows continuity. Disconnecting it and switching the power on results in a completely dark, non-functioning cooker.
I will bite the bullet and buy the sub PCB board and report back.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
108,956
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, then the new PCB-sub board should fix it.

Jake
 

Karlski

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2020
Messages
3
Location
State College, PA
The new PCB-sub board arrived today and I installed it. The problem appeared to be fixed immediately, as I got a heating response from the oven, something that did not happen with the original sub board. I set the temperature to 500 degrees as the first test - because the problem originally started by an inability to reach a high temperature. The oven passed the test by reaching 500F. I consider the problem fixed. Thanks for your advice, Jake.

Karlski
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
108,956
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent Karlski, glad to hear the new PCB-sub board fixed it. (y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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