- Model Number
- NE58H9970WS/AC
- Brand
- Samsung
- Age
- 1-5 years
I thought I would share the details regarding how I fixed my Samsung Induction Stove, Model NE58H9970WS/AC
The symptoms were: Normal operation, 20 minutes later went to use stove, but no lights, sound, LCD (for the burner display), or burner function. Stove would not work, however Oven and LCD display for that worked as normal.
After watching a video on how to remove the top, disassembled the induction assembly to inspect components. My first thought was a fuse had blown, because I had lost all functions at once, so checked fuses. There are two 250V fuses (old style cylindrical fuses, like the glass ones in older cars) located where the power wires come to the circuit board. Checked those with a multimeter, both were good. **Note: be sure to check your test leads before diagnosis, so you don't read an open circuit by accident. Also, make sure your meter is set to the correct scale (for this repair I used the lowest setting of 200 ohms because there is not much resistance in a fuse). You can also try different scales when testing a part. The reason I mention this is because I have made a mis-diagnosis because of using the wrong scale, when trying to diagnose a gas engine ignition coil.
After checking the 2 main fuses, there was a small soldered in fuse, located on a yellow circuit board, part # of my replacement was DA92-00486A. This fuse tested bad (tested as an "open circuit" it did not measure resistance, meaning the circuit was broken/blown fuse).
Interestingly, the circuit board also had a small burn mark on it, so I am not sure if that caused the fuse to blow, or if it was user error, by myself turning the stove dial from setting 3 to High to Off in less than a second, which may have caused to much electrical load, too fast, causing the fuse to blow. But that is just my own speculation.
Thankfully replacing this part fixed my issue and all functions are restored.
While I was there, I labelled the connectors and removed them, and inspected the backs of the panels for the solder joints, everything looked good, which led me to believe the panel with the blown fuse was my problem. I recommend buying or borrowing a multimeter, as it saved me a lot of trouble and guesswork! I used to be a "shotgun diagnosis" or "throw parts at it" kind of guy, because I am not familiar with electrical parts, but the meter really helped in making a more probable diagnosis.
When you are looking for your new part, i recommend talking to a reputable parts place instead of Amazon. The people I talked to emailed me a parts diagram for the whole cooktop, which was very helpful.
Lastly, labeling all the wires before disconnecting them was very helpful, because there are a lot of layers to this unit. Also, before attempting this repair, use a good quality #2 phillips, applying slight pressure into the slots as you turn, as I found these very easy to strip. With one that I stripped, the easiest way to remove it was with a power drill, and a left hand drill bit set
This repair was completed with a #2 Phillips screwdriver, masking tape and marker, multimeter, and 3 towels to lay the glass and other stovetop sections on.
Posting because I have not seen any info about this problem online, hopefully you found this helpful
Picture attached of circuit board, multimeter, and bad fuse
The symptoms were: Normal operation, 20 minutes later went to use stove, but no lights, sound, LCD (for the burner display), or burner function. Stove would not work, however Oven and LCD display for that worked as normal.
After watching a video on how to remove the top, disassembled the induction assembly to inspect components. My first thought was a fuse had blown, because I had lost all functions at once, so checked fuses. There are two 250V fuses (old style cylindrical fuses, like the glass ones in older cars) located where the power wires come to the circuit board. Checked those with a multimeter, both were good. **Note: be sure to check your test leads before diagnosis, so you don't read an open circuit by accident. Also, make sure your meter is set to the correct scale (for this repair I used the lowest setting of 200 ohms because there is not much resistance in a fuse). You can also try different scales when testing a part. The reason I mention this is because I have made a mis-diagnosis because of using the wrong scale, when trying to diagnose a gas engine ignition coil.
After checking the 2 main fuses, there was a small soldered in fuse, located on a yellow circuit board, part # of my replacement was DA92-00486A. This fuse tested bad (tested as an "open circuit" it did not measure resistance, meaning the circuit was broken/blown fuse).
Interestingly, the circuit board also had a small burn mark on it, so I am not sure if that caused the fuse to blow, or if it was user error, by myself turning the stove dial from setting 3 to High to Off in less than a second, which may have caused to much electrical load, too fast, causing the fuse to blow. But that is just my own speculation.
Thankfully replacing this part fixed my issue and all functions are restored.
While I was there, I labelled the connectors and removed them, and inspected the backs of the panels for the solder joints, everything looked good, which led me to believe the panel with the blown fuse was my problem. I recommend buying or borrowing a multimeter, as it saved me a lot of trouble and guesswork! I used to be a "shotgun diagnosis" or "throw parts at it" kind of guy, because I am not familiar with electrical parts, but the meter really helped in making a more probable diagnosis.
When you are looking for your new part, i recommend talking to a reputable parts place instead of Amazon. The people I talked to emailed me a parts diagram for the whole cooktop, which was very helpful.
Lastly, labeling all the wires before disconnecting them was very helpful, because there are a lot of layers to this unit. Also, before attempting this repair, use a good quality #2 phillips, applying slight pressure into the slots as you turn, as I found these very easy to strip. With one that I stripped, the easiest way to remove it was with a power drill, and a left hand drill bit set
This repair was completed with a #2 Phillips screwdriver, masking tape and marker, multimeter, and 3 towels to lay the glass and other stovetop sections on.
Posting because I have not seen any info about this problem online, hopefully you found this helpful
Picture attached of circuit board, multimeter, and bad fuse
