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FIXED Samsung Refrigerator RB2044SL stops cooling after some time

madnad

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2022
Messages
4
Location
San Antonio, TX
Model Number
RB2044SL
Brand
Samsung
Age
More than 10 years
I apologize at outset if this problem has been addressed. To me, it seems quite perplexing and I am at a loss of what terms to search for inorder to get to my solution.
Samsung fridge/freezer model number RB2044SL. Old fridge, sitting in the garage.
Problem: The compressor does not kick on after it has stopped (on reaching set temperature). Requires restart to kick in again, and cycle repeats.
My observations:
1. The compressor and its fan (at the back) start up normally and run for about 2 to 3 hours (or however long it takes to attain the set temperature). So compressor and start relay appear to be good.
2. The controls seem to be working normally - I can change the temperature settings, turn on PowerFreeze or PowerCool.
3. There is water/condensate in the bottom tray - so defrost cycle is happening and it is getting cleared. I also took apart the conduit and cleaned it for good measure.
4. Upon first start (or power cycle) - the temperature readout on display concurs with my reading using handheld temp sensor. I also have a WiFi temp sensor sitting inside the refrigerator which sends me readings on the phone periodically. I can verify that the fridge is getting cold and reaches set temperature. Then it starts to warm up on my phone readings. But the temperature readout on the display shows my set temperature (for eg. 36 for fridge and -2 for freezer) not the real temperature inside [this is normal operation from what I read]. So then I power cycle it and the onboard temperature displays the warmer temperature as it is. And the compressor kicks in, starts to cool. If I don't power cycle then the refrigerator starts to warm up and it can keep warming and go up to 60 deg fridge and 20 deg freezer if I don't intervene .
What I have done so far:
I have replaced the temperature sensor in the past, but don't think that is the problem as it reads correctly after restart.
I have replaced the thermal fuse more than once because it was blown - and I would like to know what I can do to prevent this. I have checked it for continuity and it is not blown.
I have cleaned out the drain in the freezer and fridge. There doesn't seem to be any major ice buildup.
When the refrigerator is working (after power cycling), I can confirm that there is cold air moving in both the chambers.

I haven't tried forced defrost lately, or run diagnostic code as I don't know how to.

I will be happy to provide additional information, try out some suggestions. TIA.
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
Staff member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
6,324
Location
Ontario, Canada
The compressor does not kick on after it has stopped (on reaching set temperature). Requires restart to kick in again

I can't think of what would cause that besides a 'sticking' relay or component in the main electronic control at the rear of the appliance. The electronic control very possibly needs to be replaced.

This link is pertinent to your message. It is supplied by this message author.

LINK > RB2044SL Main Control Board




Dan O.
 

madnad

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2022
Messages
4
Location
San Antonio, TX
I can't think of what would cause that besides a 'sticking' relay or component in the main electronic control at the rear of the appliance. The electronic control very possibly needs to be replaced.

LINK > RB2044SL Main Control Board

Thanks Dan for your input.
I was suspecting the main board as well but didn't want to just throw parts at it.
Of note, it was doing the same thing couple of years back and I muddled with the main board, re-seated some of the relays and got couple more years out of it. Haven't done that this time round but I am guessing it is time to get into some cramped, tight space for troubleshooting.

I am attaching the temperature readouts over time. Each bar is 5 minute apart. As you can tell, as soon as the fridge reaches 34 deg mark, it starts to warm up. I don't hear the compressor or any clicking even when the temperature goes really high (high 60s).
Could it be one of the components on the main board? During last round of troubleshooting, I had identified a relay as possible culprit. Didn't replace it as the fridge started working right.
 

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Dan O.

Appliance Tech
Staff member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
6,324
Location
Ontario, Canada
Could it be one of the components on the main board?

I'm afraid I have no idea what component(s) on the control might be responsible for such functioning. Electronics engineering is beyond the scope of most appliance service technicians. If an electronic control is suspect, the whole control is usually replaced.

Someone would need to test your theory when the problem was actually occurring. I'm not certain how that could be done.


Dan O.
 

madnad

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2022
Messages
4
Location
San Antonio, TX
Update:
I bought another main board and replaced it. However, the problem persisted, no change at all. So I reverted to my old main board and will be returning this one. Doesn't seem like a main board problem.

Would appreciate additional inputs.
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
Staff member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
6,324
Location
Ontario, Canada
When it warms up, is it just the compressor that is off or all the fans off as well?


Dan O.
 

madnad

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2022
Messages
4
Location
San Antonio, TX
When it warms up, is it just the compressor that is off or all the fans off as well?


Dan O.
All the fans are off as well (condenser and inside the fridge and freezer). There is no response to changing the temperature settings including PowerFreeze or PowerCool.
But once I restart it starts back up without problem.

If it still points to the main board, could the replacement board be bad as well? It was listed as used, and I bought it to save money. And hoping that two boards are unlikely have the same issue. But if it is, are you aware of any components that go bad? I have been watching some YouTube videos and some capacitors are common culprits. Also onboard relays.
Can it be related to the start capacitor problem? Wouldn't that also affect initial start up?

As of now, I am power cycling the refrigerator every 8 hours to keep it working. Do you foresee some problems arising from this strategy?

Thanks for taking the time to help me.
 
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Dan O.

Appliance Tech
Staff member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
6,324
Location
Ontario, Canada
If it still points to the main board, could the replacement board be bad as well? It was listed as used, and I bought it to save money. And hoping that two boards are unlikely have the same issue.

If a brand new replacement part acted exactly the same as the original did I would say that part is unlikely to be the cause of the problem. However when buying used parts you just never know. That might be a common failure of the part in question which is why technicians don't usually deal with used components. One bad part and it takes away any savings to be had and usually end up costing more in time and aggravation.

are you aware of any components that go bad?

Appliance technicians are not usually qualified to investigate electronic circuit boards. That is a whole different field. If determined to be defective the part would be replaced, period. I have no idea what components might fail on them.

I am power cycling the refrigerator every 8 hours to keep it working. Do you foresee some problems arising from this strategy?

I do not think that would affect anything.

Dan O.
 

zape

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2022
Messages
2
Location
FL
Following because I have exactly the same issue with my Refrigerator RH22H9010SR/AA, also sitting in a garage (hot and humid here in South FL)
 
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