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Samsung Refrigerator RF23M8590SG Not Cooling/Freezing

Artemis

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2022
Messages
3
Location
Elko, Nevada
Model Number
RF23M8590SG
Brand
Samsung
Age
6-10 years
Hello Everyone, Hoping to get some assistance in repairing this refrigerator. It was given to me by a friend who got fed up trying to fix it. So I drove 500 miles to pick it up in hopes it will be a simple fix. So far the repair has eluded me. There is no cooling in either the fridge nor freezer. My friend stated that at first the freezer stopped working then the fridge. I have done the simple stuff, power reset, demo mode etc. I checked the inverter board for errors and the LED it solid on (no blinking). The fan runs and I think the compressor is running, very slight vibration and it get warm when ran for a while. There are no codes or error when running diagnostics (via either the family hub or service diagnostic menu). I thought it might be the main PCB so I replaced that since it wasn't too expensive. This did not resolve the matter. I ran across some info that it might be the 3way step valve since this is dual evaporator model. However the service manual is not very clear on testing that valve. The wiring diagram states that the PCB should supply 12v to the valve but I'm only getting 5v. at the board/valve, not sure if that is a typo or if there is another issue. I tested the resistance on the 3way valve solenoids one was about 40ohms and the other was about 85ohms.

Questions:

Is it possible (common) to have a failed inverter board that is not showing any blinking LEDs?
Can the 3way step valve fail in a state that won't pass refrigerant to either the fridge or freezer evaps? (I have some info where it can stick and freezer the refrigerator compartment)
Should the voltage to the 3way valve actually be 12v as stated in the diagram?

FYI, it is very hard to get anyone to look at this device here in Elko as the R600a seems to put the repair people off. So I'm left to my own devices. lol

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
134,006
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Here's the parts diagram for this model:

I think the compressor is running, very slight vibration and it get warm when ran for a while.
Yes, if there is NO frost on the evaporator coil then you have a sealed system problem.

The sealed system consists of the compressor, condenser, evaporator, heat exchanger, filter/drier and refrigerant.

Common problems with a sealed system are bad compressors, refrigerant leaks, and system restrictions.

Sealed system repair costs will often exceed the machines value.

I ran across some info that it might be the 3way step valve since this is dual evaporator model. However the service manual is not very clear on testing that valve. The wiring diagram states that the PCB should supply 12v to the valve but I'm only getting 5v. at the board/valve, not sure if that is a typo or if there is another issue. I tested the resistance on the 3way valve solenoids one was about 40ohms and the other was about 85ohms.
It's not clear to me either, Rick helped another member with a similar issue:
But his was at least cooling the refrigerator section evaporator coil.

FYI, it is very hard to get anyone to look at this device here in Elko as the R600a seems to put the repair people off.
Are you sure its R600a refrigerant? Not 134a refrigerant? It should say on your model number tag, which is located inside the refrigerator section on the interior walls or ceiling.

Jake
 

Artemis

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2022
Messages
3
Location
Elko, Nevada
Hello Jake and thanks for the reply. I have not accessed the F/R evaps yet but the fans are running and the unit will not cool at all after running for several hours. The low side lines are cool/slightly warm to the touch. High lines are def warm and the compressor housing is warm (130F Normal?).

I'm questioning the 3way valve as the signal voltage seems off at 5v instead of 12v indicated in the manual, I'm just not sure if it could stick in closed state that would shut off both F/R evaps. Yes this unit uses R600a for sure, its on the inside service tag as well as labeled on the compressor.

This is an expensive Family Hub unit and is worth fixing but you are right the parts alone are expensive for that sealed system, Samsung said that is still under the sealed sys warranty, just not sure if they will reimburse as there is no Samsung Cert Tech in my remote area of Nevada.

Do you know where I can get a copy of the Fast Track for this model? Also, do you know what the resistance measurements should be for the 3way valve? I'm tempted to buy one to test and then replace if I have to open the sealed system. Thoughts?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
134,006
Location
Redmond, Oregon
I'm questioning the 3way valve as the signal voltage seems off at 5v instead of 12v indicated in the manual, I'm just not sure if it could stick in closed state that would shut off both F/R evaps.
That is very odd, if the manual says 12 volts then it should be 12 volts. Unless the manual is faulty, which can happen to any manual.

I've NOT worked on this Samsung model as of yet, so I don't know myself, except for what the manual says too.

Do you know where I can get a copy of the Fast Track for this model? Also, do you know what the resistance measurements should be for the 3way valve?
Sorry I don't have the tech data sheet or service manual for this model.

Hopefully another tech or member has it and can upload it here.

Jake
 

Artemis

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2022
Messages
3
Location
Elko, Nevada
Hi Jake,

I think I've made some progress. I have accessed the evap in the refer compartment, there is no frosting whatsoever nor any signs of cooling. I also got some additional background info on the unit. My friend said the freezer stopped working and the refrigerator was still working but not as good. So he get frustrated and put this in unit in the back yard when he bought a new refrigerator. He tried plugging the old unit in while it was in the back yard and now not even the refrigerator compartment would cool. To me this seems like a sealed system issue, low R600 (only holds 56g).

This got me to thinking from my days as a Honda technician, where AC line fittings would/could seep under high temps due to inadequate sealing. I read that these units have leak check dye in them from the factory. So I got my UV light and notice some very slight dye on the crimp fittings. See attached photos. To me these look like a very slight/slow seep or leak. Your thoughts?

My friend said the unit worked fine for about 5 years. My thoughts are that the unit had a slow leak at these fittings and when he put it outside in the 100F summer heat, the leaks got worse and the small amount of refrigerant that is in this unit leaked to a critical level (perhaps leaked entirely). In auto A/C systems there is a pressure switch that will disengage the compressor if the freon level gets too low. Is there something similar in appliance cooling?

Next I will look at the charge level, pressure test and recharge to see if this is the actual issue.

Can you give me some thoughts on how to repair these couplings. They are some sort of crimp connection, of which I have no access to tooling for recrimping/replacing these. There is a combination of materials in these couplings, three are alum to alum and one is copper/alum.

Your thoughts on if this is generally be covered under the 10 year sealed system warranty?
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
134,006
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Sorry my friend, I can't answer those questions, I've NOT worked on any sealed systems on a Samsung refrigerator before.

I'm a old MONKEY WARD and SEARS tech and we did not have those couplings on the Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, and Amana brands. It was all basic brazing with a Turbo Torch. LOL

You can Contact Samsung at 1-800-SAMSUNG (726-7864) for the 10 year warranty.

Jake
 
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