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Samsung Refrigerator RF28M9580SR - 4 Door - freezer temp is 40-50 degrees F

Launchpad

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Model Number
RF28M9580SR
Brand
Samsung
Age
1-5 years
Hello, First off I totally understand Samsung appliances are terrible and I will NEVER buy one again. Nevertheless I'm stuck with a fridge model number RF28M9580SR. Its a 4 door refrigerator freezer. I'm having an issue with the bottom left Freezer section. (This is the only straight Freezer section)

The ICE Maker IS making ice properly (Don't worry it has given me problems in the past but right this second its working fine. The problem is my freezer temp is 40-50 degrees F. It gave me a problem about a month ago and I cleaned the coils with a vacuum and pulled the power to reset the computer. It started working again. Unfortunately those easy remedies aren't working this time around. I took the back panel off and the coils are warm / dripping water. While I was doing this the fridge told me there was an abnormally high temperature in the freezer. (First time it gave me this message). The Fridge section is cooling normal. Running the self diagnostics produced no results as it said everything was fine.

So again in a nutshell: Fridge sections fine, Ice maker making ice, freezer warm. Please help.

Thanks in advance.
 
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rickgburton

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I took the back panel off and the coils are warm / dripping water.
Warmer than room temperature? Stuck in defrost? Access the main control board and see if there is an LED blinking a pattern.
 

Launchpad

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Update. So apparently now there is a bit of frost on the copper pipe coming into the freezer
Warmer than room temperature? Stuck in defrost? Access the main control board and see if there is an LED blinking a pattern.
Current temperature of freezer is 62F. Control board has 1 light and it is solid Red. F735C634-09B6-4EC0-95A0-95C1850E0520.jpeg
 

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rickgburton

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Update. So apparently now there is a bit of frost on the copper pipe coming into the freezer
It sounds like you're describing a sealed system problem.
R-frost pattern leak.jpg
R-frost pattern sealed system fd.jpg
R-frost pattern sealed system.jpg
 

Launchpad

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There is not much frost on the coils in that section. But it’s making ice which leads me to think it IS cooling properly. Could it be a temperature sensor in that compartment? What do u think?
 

rickgburton

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Could it be a temperature sensor in that compartment? ....... There is not much frost on the coils in that section.
No, it's the way the evaporators are connected to the system. The control board uses the sensor information to know when to run the compressor. Since there is some frost on the evaporator that tells us the three way valve is open and the compressor is running. The two evaporators are connected in series so think of it as one evaporator. Is the compressor running continuously? After the machine has been running for a minimum of 24 hours, with all the covers on/installed leave the machine plugged in and running and remove the cover. Take a picture of the frost pattern on the coils and post it here.
 

Launchpad

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Thanks Rick. its been a bit since my last post but I've troubleshooted a little more and here is what I came up with.
You were spot on. It was a sealed system problem. I added 134a until 2psi on the low side and the freezer is back down to temp. However I have 2 issues now.

1.) Even though everything is at the proper temperature (For over 24 hours) the compressor does not turn off. Why would this be?

2.) I was able to locate 2 leaks using a Leak detector. These two locations also show a little oil residue from the leaking 134a which helps confirm the location. I'm skilled to braze and solder copper line sets, but these look like Aluminum!? They also look like some sort of push connector. (Silly if so!)

What would be the proper way to re seal these two locations? (See attached image)

Thanks again for all your help!
IMG_0890.jpg
 
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Launchpad

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No need to explain the brazing of aluminum lines (not that you would anyway) I have a friend who is a car mechanic and is on top of this.

I'm still wondering why the compressor wont turn off when everything is at the correct temperature?
 

rickgburton

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I added 134a until 2psi on the low side
Once the sealed system has been opened, all bets are off. There's so many possibilities as to what can be causing it and I just can't do sealed system repairs online. If you didn't have the problem before you added gas, then that's a good place to start. Might be air or moisture in the system or maybe it's overcharged??

The connections in your pic are Lokring connectors. You need a special tool to install them. FWIW- The hardest braze to do is aluminum to aluminum. I've been doing it off and on for 30+ years and I still have problems getting it.
lokring.jpg

Snapshot_3.jpg
 

Launchpad

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I did notice the compressor turned off two different times on its own since yesterday. (It might have more but that’s the amount of time I noticed when going in the kitchen.) Is it true on these newer fridges the compressor runs %80-%90 of the time? Its seems to be a variable speed compressor and It’s running on a very low speed most of the time.
Please advise.

Thanks again
 

rickgburton

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I'm not sure about the 80-90% but they do run on low speed. There's a 20% to 40% difference between a variable speed compressor and a fixed speed compressor.
 
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