Hey Maxine,
Not sure if you are still looking for a fix on this, but I had the exact same issue. First symptom was my ice flap opening and closing when the door was wide open. It would stop when it was shut, so I figured it was a pinched or frayed wire in the door. Second, the lights on my front panel display flickered for a day or so and finally they went out all together. However, everything functioned as expected. I could get ice, water and change settings, but couldn't see what I was doing. Again, I figured it started as a pinched / frayed wire and is now completely broken.
My trouble shooting process looked like this:
1. I looked at the wiring harness at the top of the door, it visually looked good.
2. I pulled the front panel off, looked over the circuit board and everything looked good (just looking for burnt capacitors, resistors, disconnected wires, burn marks on the board, etc.).
3. I noticed that the board only had five wires coming from the wiring harness at the top: rx, tx, ground, 5v and 13v.
4. I figured it wasn't the rx, tx or ground since all functions continued to work while the door was shut (e.g. I could get ice, crushed ice, water and hear audible beeps.
5. I used a multimeter to test for voltage at the connector behind the front panel display where the front panel display connects to the door of the refrigerator via a wiring connector. I noticed that I was getting 5v on the orange wire pin, but no voltage on the red wire pin (this is the 13v).
6. I tested for 13v on the red wire at the top of the door where the wiring comes out of the refrigerator, not the door to see if I had power, I did.
7. I then tested the red wire for continuity between the top of the door and the connector behind the front panel display..... no continuity.
No continuity and no power so I figured this wire was broken somewhere in the door. I went back to the top of the door and barely pulled on the red (small wire, probably 20 / 22 gauge) and it pulled right out of the tube, it was broken.
Luckily there is was an unused wire that ran from the top of the door, via the wiring harness, to one of the pins to the connector behind the front panel display. Not sure why the wire is there, maybe for some additional functionality that my fridge doesn't have. I simply spliced the 13v wire to this wire and reconfigured the pin at the connector and voila... my display was back and my ice door no longer consistently opens and closes when the door is open.
BTW, I have heard of a number of people having trouble with their Samsung wiring.... seems like they should have used a slightly larger gauge wire to me.
