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Samsung top load washer WA5471ABP - 3E error code

Fierodude

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2016
Messages
9
Location
OK - Oklahoma
Model Number
WA5471ABP
Brand
Samsung
Age
1-5 years
Top load samsung WA5471ABP, just out of warranty of course. Stopped working displayed a 3E error code. Initially while diagnosing problem i thought it was the hall sensor so I replaced it. Washer is still not working. Still throwing 3E error code during normal wash cycle, and now a 13E code while in service mode also, and the tub jerks back and forth but will not spin when in service mode. After trying that several times now nothing at all, except a faint electrical noise like the motor wants to go but nothing.

The replacement of the hall sensor seemed easy almost too easy, did I overlooking something? Or is there another problem. I did double check all electrical connections and bolts for tightness. During a normal wash cycle i can hear what sounds like the motor trying to turn but no results. I can move the tub freely with little effort, could there be some obstruction in the tub? I have not opened up the top. Thanks for any responses.
 

Jake

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Hi,

A multimeter is a must to have when working on your own appliances, so you can test parts properly per the tech. data sheet.:)

Look here: FIXED Samsung Washer - 3E error (Motor? Pump? PCB?))

You see what wildimaginations says you need to ohm test?

He is our Samsung and LG expert, you can msg him wildimaginations and see if he can assist you here on your thread.


You say your tub is turning freely or semi-freely? On other models I work on like Whirlpool, Maytag, Frigidaire, I get my flashlight and look through all the small holes at the bottom of the tub, you'd be surprised how many nails I've found in one of those holes causing the tub not to turn freely.:)

Jake
 

Fierodude

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2016
Messages
9
Location
OK - Oklahoma
Went thru the steps with a voltmeter. That is how I found the bad hall sensor. Still getting low readings but not as low. I have removed tape and inspected all wires for kinks or cuts, and none were found.

I am not an electrician, nor a mechanic, nor am I afraid to get dirty but I do second guess myself when I am less than sure about my skills. That being said the machine was on its backside when I reinstalled the stator.

I literally just attached it back in place. I didn't notice any position adjustment play when tightening the stator bolts in place. Should I check alignment to insure that the magnets don't come in contact when spinning? Or is this part idiot proof and I am overthinking everything?

Thanks
 

Jake

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No, its idiot proof.:) But take the stator off again and look it over closely to see if its cracked or damaged.

Look here: Samsung Washer WA5471 gives error code 3E

Your is the exact same model.

I wrote: Its possibly a bad Hall Sensor(Rotor Position Sensor) OR Stator.

I'm attaching the tech sheet below. Do the Hall Sensor Check - DD Motor Check - Clutch Motor Check listed on Page 3. You will need a multimeter.

ERROR CODE 3E: Check the motor drive connector, it may be loose. The hall sensor may be disconnected, loose or damaged . Check for a foreign object inside the motor or motor damage. The stator might be loose or damaged. The drum might be overloaded from too many clothes or the relay or PCB might be defective.

Here's the Rotor and Stator kit which also includes the Hall Sensor:
Rotor and Stator Kit DC96-01218E


Jake
 

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wildimaginations

Appliance Tech
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Messages
632
Location
Danville, California
If you have good continuity at all the wires to the motor and the motor sensor has been replaced, check to make sure the rotor splines have not stripped. That's the part where the stator and the shaft come together.

Once all this is checked, the only other problem would be the control board: Samsung DC92-00618A Assy Pcb MAIN;ORCA,120V
 

Fierodude

Premium Member
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Messages
9
Location
OK - Oklahoma
Still need help please

Jake and wildimaginations, thanks for the help but i still need more help, please read on: Okay rechecked everything. Hall sensor now showing lower across all contacts, 1.2 ohms at each checkpoint should be 3.75 ohms. Tested the ac power in and its fine, tested the dd motor it tested low at 14 ohms should be 18 ohms, tested clutch motor had a hard time getting values but I believe it's fine, tested all other misc items and they were fine. Inspected stator and no visible crack or damage. Splines are nice and tight have to use a little effort when removing or reinstalling the stator. Do notice an electrical smell when opening pcb box, but no visible burnt spots. Is there a way to test the board before just replacing? At this point unless I need to worry about the low resistance on the dd motor, I believe either the pcb or stator needs replacing, or I just received a broken hall sensor. Any thoughts or expert advice much appreciated.
As always thanks in advance
Eric
 

Jake

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Yes Eric, Wild knows these machines inside and out, he works on them daily. If he says the control board is the problem child, I'd replace it.:)

The control board part link is in post #5 above.

Jake
 

Jake

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We are glad to help Eric, yes keep us posted!

Jake
 

Fierodude

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Aug 13, 2016
Messages
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Location
OK - Oklahoma
Update: Inatalled new pcb and it is still not working. Same error code 3E. Still same results no changes. Uggh.

Any advice???

While waiting for advice gonna recheck again and add a little dielectric grease to electrical connections. Saw a previous post that jake pointed out that, that worked for someone else. Please help me out I am stumped.
 

wildimaginations

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Check your connections to make sure they're snug and secure.

Go the board and check do a voltage test on the hall sensor. Place your volt meter leads to the diagram I attached. With the machine turned on and the leads attached to connections at the board, slowly move the rotor and watch the voltage readings. It should show 5v to 0v to 5v, etc. Do this to both the pink wire and the orange wire. Let me know what you get.
 

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Fierodude

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Messages
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Location
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Everything is snug. Have already replaced the hall sensor. Readings are still at 1.2 volts for each checkpoint, voltage coming in is at 6.1 volts across red and black. Did notice that the black and grey checkpoint readings did not go 0 to 1.2 and back to 0 as smoothly as the black and blue checkpoint. The reading would stay at 1.2 while turning, I did notice if I moved the drum back and forth across the x axis only the readout would change back and forth like it is supposed to. My best uneducated guess would be the stator has some damage that my untrained eye is missing, or the dd motor is shot, remember the resistance for the dd motor is supposed to be 18 but i am reading only 14 ohms. Please advise, and thanks again for taking the time to help everyone.
 

wildimaginations

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1.2 volts is too low from the hall sensor. You should be getting 3-4.5 volts. If you already changed the hall sensor with a brand new one and you've already changed the pc board and still getting a 3E error code, the only other possible problem is the wire harness between the board and motor. You may have a very large resistance in the wire or a break in it causing the 3E error code.
 

Fierodude

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What would be causing the "large resistance"? I have inspected the wires and found no break. I have tested the hall sensor while the machine was on its back directly at the sensor with the same low voltage results. If it was a wire break wouldn't it show the correct volage right at the sensor? Also do I need to worry about the low resistance from the motor? Thanks again will inspect the wires again
 

Fierodude

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Saying that this is frustrating would be an understatement at this point. If the thought is a broken or pinched wire, can I not just splice in a new wire between the hall sensor and the pcb? I would think replacing the blue and grey wires for the hall sensor should do it. BUT I am not an electrician, before I go that route can someone give some input. Before anyone asks I get the same voltage reading across the red and black wires 6.2, which is correct, at the base of the unit.

Also still concerned with the low resistance on the motor, getting 14 but should see 18. Thanks again to all who are helping me with this nightmare.
 

wildimaginations

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Can't answer that question since I'm not an electrician or an electrical engineer. I just know that the voltage is too low coming back from the hall sensor to the pc board.
 

Jake

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That's Wild for helping him through this.

I located this thread that Rick and Wild helped with a couple years ago: FIXED Samsung Washing Machine 3E error message

Eric: read through that whole thread, especially the very last post on page 2 of that thread.

Check the wiring harness at the motor.
disconnect motor and Hall sensor connectors (both are on the motor)
Remove all tape on wiring harness from connectors to last zip tie (you will understand once you take the back cover off the washer) to expose all wires

I found one wire from the Hall Sensor had been cut due the zip tie been to tight and over a period of 4 years with the constant movement of the drum a wire from the Hall Sensor had broken.

A $0.02 butt joint fixed what could of been a $900 washer replacement.

Good luck.
Jake
 

Fierodude

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Messages
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Location
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Final update. This Machine ended up being one of the recalled machines. Had recall done, which was a joke, a sticker and a bolt. That enabled a one year warranty. Long story very short, and a lot less hair, samsung refunded my original purchase price of the machine in 2012. This last weekend we bought a new LG. So far so good. Are we happy, no. Will we ever buy samsung again. Not after dealing with their customer service system. Absolutely ridiculous. End of story. Thanks everyone for all of your help much appreciated.
Eric
 

Jake

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