SAV4655EWW Old Maytag won't pump/spin. Timer or motor or both?

Vibeman

Premium Member
Joined
May 2, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Michigan
Model
SAV4655EWW
Brand
Maytag
Age
More than 10 years
Hi
I am new here and this is my first post. I have a Maytag SAV4655EWW washer purchased new about 2006. It has been a good machine but lately has been missing the pump-out/spin cycle; it just continues to agitate the rinse water until the cycle is over. At first it happened occasionally then more often and now almost every time. It happens during different cycles too. (Regular, Wrinkle free, etc.) I have been doing some troubleshooting and have some questions that perhaps someone can help me with. The motor is a two speed reversible model (S68PXMDM-1088) and when I have the “Wash/Spin Speed” selector switch set to “Regular” (which is normal wash speed and FAST spin speed) the agitation part of the cycle works normally but when the motor reverses for the pump-out and spin it starts to turn but emits a loud electrical hum-buzz and then trips the overload within 10-15 seconds. When I set the selector switch to “Wrinkle Free” (which is normal wash speed and SLOW spin speed) the motor hums at a more normal level upon reversing and will pump out and spin to the end of the cycle without tripping the overload.

I removed the motor from the washer and removed the pump from the motor. The drive belt and pulleys are in good condition. The drum rotates freely in both directions. The pump rotates freely in both directions. The motor rotates freely in both directions. The motor and windings are clean and bright with no burned areas that I can see. It does not smell burned either. When I hook the wires back up to the motor sitting outside the washer with pump removed it still emits the loud hum-buzz on high speed and still trips the overload. When I energize it on low speed it seems to run normally and will not trip. At first I suspected the problem was with the timer, as it seemed that it was just skipping right on by the pump-out/spin cycle and sometimes I could manually rotate the timer dial 360 degrees right on back to the pump-out/spin cycle and it would work. (I found many similar problems described in this forum) But when the motor got so loud and started tripping the overload now I’m not so sure it is just the timer, but possibly a motor problem too.
Here are some questions:
1. Is it possible for a defective timer to try to energize two motor speeds or conditions at once, thus causing high current draw and tripping the overload?
2. Is it possible for the motor to still operate if it has one defective winding and one good one?
3. Does the overload switch detect over-current AND over-temp?
4. Is it possible to bench test all motor speeds and functions by energizing the terminals manually?
This is an old machine and there is a limit as to how much money I will put into it. A new timer is $128 and I would do that if that is the only problem, but a new motor is $311 and that is too much, especially if I have already put in the new timer. I would like a professional opinion as to the likelihood of the timer and the motor both being defective. (Perhaps the timer malfunction caused damage to the motor?)
Thank you in advance for your help.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
33,183
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Look on the back of the speed selector switch and you'll see the terminals are labeled. Unplug the machine. Mark the wires or take a pic and remove them from the switch. Set the following conditions and check for continuity on the following terminals:

Switch position:

Fast/Fast - L1 to C = closed. L2 to C = closed. L2 to 2 = open. L1 to 2 = open.

Fast/Regular - L1 to C = closed L2 to 2 = closed. L2 to C = open

Reg/Reg - L1 to 2 = closed L2 to 2 = closed L2 to C = open

Disconnect the motor connector and measure the motor windings. Start windings- 3.1Ω Fast windings- 1.3Ω Reg windings- 2.3Ω
 

Vibeman

Premium Member
Joined
May 2, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Michigan
Thank you rickgburton, the speed switch checks out ok, but I can see no markings on the motor leads to identify which is which so I am not sure how to test the winding resistance. There are 6 wires coming from the motor; white, brown, blue, yellow, purple, red.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
33,183
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Unfortunately the only diagram I have doesn't show me the wire colors. It does show me motor connector numbers. Look on the motor switch and the wire terminals should be numbered. The numbers are usually on the switch and sometimes hard to see. You need to disconnect the wires from the switch when measuring the windings. #4 is probably the white wire. 4 to 1 is the start windings. #4 to #7 is the fast windings and #4 to #3 is the regular windings. Do you have a copy of the wiring diagram for your machine??
 

Vibeman

Premium Member
Joined
May 2, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Michigan
Yes, I have the one page schematic that was inside the control panel and it has the wire terminal numbers on it. I will pull the motor back out today and test the windings.
Thank you.
 

Vibeman

Premium Member
Joined
May 2, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Michigan
I removed the motor disconnected and removed the switch; there are no numbers on the wires, the terminals, the switch or anywhere else that I can see. I checked the resistance between the white wire and all others, here is what I got:
White wire to brown = open
White wire to blue = 1.6 ohms
White wire to yellow = 0.3 ohms
White wire to purple = 2.5 ohms
White wire to red = open
It would seem that the three wires I got readings on would be the three motor windings, if so I think the 0.3 reading might be a problem. I also opened the switch and the contacts look like they have been working but are somewhat blackened from arcing. I will clean them before reassembly. What do you think?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
33,183
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
You're still giving me colors. White wire to yellow is what switch #'s ? Take a good clear picture of the wiring diagram and make sure it's on your computer. Click on the picture icon in the toolbar. On the "Insert Image" window select "Choose File" and navigate to your pic. Select open then "upload files".
 

Vibeman

Premium Member
Joined
May 2, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Michigan
Schematic and switch

The only wire numbers that I can find are on the attached schematic. There are no terminal numbers or wire numbers anywhere on the switch or the motor that I can find I have included photos of the switch and the wires, perhaps they will tell you more.

IMG_5330.jpg IMG_5321.jpg IMG_5299.jpg IMG_5329.jpg
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
OK, I would say the motor is good. The problem could be the burned contacts in the motor switch. Clean the contacts good and use a piece of fine grit sandpaper on the contact points. Then check the machine again.
 

Vibeman

Premium Member
Joined
May 2, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Michigan
I cleaned the contacts and reinstalled the motor. With no clothes or water in the tub I set the speed selector switch to "normal/slow" and set the timer knob to spin. The tub started to spin but within 10 seconds or so the motor overload tripped. The motor laminations near the overload were already warm after only 10 seconds of run time. In my original post I asked if the overload was just thermal or did it trip on over-current also, still wondering about that. Any ideas?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Joined
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Messages
33,183
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
The OLP will open if it draws too many amps.The speed selector switch checked good so if the motor switch contacts are good it must be the motor.
 

Vibeman

Premium Member
Joined
May 2, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Michigan
Another Maytag down

I'm afraid I have to agree. Thank you rickgburton for you help in reaching that conclusion. It was getting down to the wire for me because it's only been a few days and my wife is already out shopping for a new washer. I guess 13 years is about all one can expect out of a washer anyway. Thanks again! This is a great board and resource for us DIYers.
 
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