SJK340BP01 Premier and Summit ranges?

Vintage

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SJK340BP01
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General question-- We need to buy a 24" gas range. Premier and Summit appear to offer some decent ones at a reasonable price, but I am not familiar with these brands. Any counsel on the source or reliability of these brands?
 

Jake

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Premier and Summit?

Never heard of those brands before.

What appliance store are you planning to by it at?

Link the website of the appliance store here so I can see them.:)

Jake
 

Vintage

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We would likely order them through a local appliance store, just to have that personal connection, even though they would need to order them in and have little experience with them. The other option would be to order them online and save about $100., but then loose the face-to-face connection if there is a problem. The two we are considering between, and had hoped to order today, are--

Premier SJK340B
Premier SJK340B 24" Freestanding Gas Range with 4 Sealed Burners, 3 cu. ft. Manual Clean Oven, Electronic Ignition, Black Glass Oven Door and 10" Tempered Glass Backguard: Black

or

Summit TLM63027BFKWY
Summit TLM63027BFKWY 24" Freestanding Gas Range with Manual Clean, Electronic Ignition and Clock w/ Timer: Stainless Steel: Liquid Propane

These seem more substantial than what I see available in 24" from the common brand names. Any counsel is welcome.
 

Jake

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Ok, yes, the Premier one is part of peerless which has a deep history since 1912:
Peerless Premier History - Ranges, Ovens and Stoves

Summit was founded in 1969, they are more in Northeastern states:
About Us | Summit Appliance

They both seem fine, I just haven't worked on any of these brands before.

And getting parts and service for these may be more challenging than anything else if you ever need it. Even more so for Summit.

Premier has more service providers by far than Summit.

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good.

Jake
 

Vintage

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It's been over 7 years and it has worked fine until now.
Premier model # SJK340BP01
Serial # P172251/100

The stove top burners work fine.
The oven does not light.
Oven does not make the clicking ignition sound like it did before.
The persons using the stove said it has gone out gradually-- taken longer to ignite. Now does not work at all.
I took out the broiler pan to have access to the igniter.
If I hold a lit match to the igniter with the oven ignite/temp knob turned on, the igniter flame will light and then soon the oven will be fully lit.
Since the stove-top igniters and the clock are working there is electric getting to the stove.
Thoughts?
 

Dan O.

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Oven not sparking??

I took out the broiler pan to have access to the igniter.
Is it actually sparking at the pilot?

A dirty spark electrode could prevent that. That might be likely if it gradually got worse, it gradually got dirtier.

There could also be a problem with that oven spark electrode or the wire to it (broken, melted, etc.) or be due to a 'weak' spark module (even if the surface burners work).

LINK > Premier SJK340BP01 Spark Module

LINK > SJK340BP01 Spark Electrode and Wire (no pic)


BTW. Summit is just a marketing company that rebrands other company's products. I believe Premier actually makes their appliances them self.

LINK > Appliance411: The Purchase : Appliance Brands

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

.
 

Vintage

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It does not spark.
"Dirty spark electrode" Is there a way to clean it or test whether that is indeed the case?
 

Dan O.

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Small brush

Is there a way to clean it
You can try compressed air or a non-metalic brush like an old tooth brush. Sometimes Emery cloth can be used. It it's a weak spark, clean the metal electrode tip and the nearest metal surface that it is suppose to spark to.

Someone could try to observe the spark (with the gas off! ... and maybe the lights) to see if it is present and where it might be sparking to.

Oven does not make the clicking ignition sound like it did before.
It should also be possible to check if the spark module is being powered when the oven thermostat is turned on. If the module was getting power when turned on, that would rule out the ignition switch on the thermostat.

I don't believe the spark module itself can be "tested". It is usually just assumed to be defective once all other possibilities are ruled out.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

.
 
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Vintage

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I cleaned the electrode and metal receiving part with toothbrush and compressed air. No difference. It does show a change of current between those two parts when turning the knob, but no spark. Then by accident I discovered that when any of the stove-top burners are turned to ignite, it activates all ignitors, including the stove ignitor. The stove ignitor works when operated by any of the top burner knobs. So I can turn on the oven gas knob and ignite it with a burner know. Works, but not ideal. Any suggestion on what the missing link may be to the oven knob and ignitor?
 

Dan O.

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The [oven] ignitor works when operated by any of the top burner knobs.
That should rule out a failure of the spark module.


by accident I discovered that when any of the stove-top burners are turned to ignite, it activates all ignitors, including the [oven] ignitor.
To me that might indicate a problem with the ignition switch on the thermostat shaft or maybe a break or short in the wiring from that switch to the spark module. The wires used are only light-duty and the insulation can easily melt if too close to a heat source. Someone might need to inspect those components.





I couldn't find a picture of it but think both the switch and wiring for the thermostat for your model come together under part # 60082c

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

.
 
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Vintage

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It has been a year and a half. I didn't do anything about the oven igniter since it could be activated via the stove top burner switches. However now none of the igniters are working. It can still be it with a match. Suggestion of where to start?
 

Dan O.

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If power is definitely getting to the range, next would usually require someone testing if 120 volts is getting to the spark module when one of the burners is turned on. 120v at the spark module but NOT sparking or clicking at all, means the module is likely defective and probably needs to be replaced.

NO power at the module would require the wiring between the ignition switches and module to be inspected. The switches themselves are unlikely to be the cause if they all (or multiple) burners started malfunctioning at the same time.

Dan O.
 
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