FIXED Stacked coin-op gas Maytag dryer MLG23PDHWW won't stay lit

[Luke Finley]

Model Number

MLG23PDHWW

Brand

Maytag

Age

More than 10 years

This is an 18 year old stacked coin-op gas dryer. The top dryer lights the first few times and cycles like normal. The flame stays on for about 45 seconds when it runs but then doesn't light anymore. The igniter still cycles on and off but the gas doesn't turn on so it cools down quickly. I replaced the gas coils and flame sensor already because it wouldn't light at all. I clearly made progress but not enough. Before throwing anymore parts at it I wanted to see if anyone had any ideas.

 

[jeff1]

Hi,

I replaced the gas coils and flame sensor already because it wouldn't light at all.

So originally the dryer would not heat at all?

The flame stays on for about 45 seconds when it runs but then doesn't light anymore.

This is now happening after your repair?

Are any panals still off of the dryer? Improper air flow because the dryer is apart or has panals removed will taint your testing results.

jeff sr.

 

[Luke Finley]

Hi Jeff, The dryer wasn't heating at all when I first got there. It wouldn't light at all. The flame sensor was dirty enough and on the hi end of the ohm range(I don't remember the exact reading now though) so I replaced the flame sensor. since the coils were the same age and I had the machine apart I replaced those too. They were also slightly out of range, far enough that I didn't want to take the machine apart again if they stopped working midway through a cycle. Once I replaced those parts the dryer fired right up. I watched it cycle twice and walked away. Then I got a call back. The dryer fired up right away so I went outside to check the vent and the vent was clear, it also only has a 3 foot run so not long at all. I wanted to let it run for a while so I took a phone call. By the time the call was over I went back inside and the dryer vent was considerably cooler. I could hear the relay kick on to the igniter but didn't hear it light. I took the front panel off and watched the igniter cycle a few times. I forgot to say I threw my amp meter on the igniter and watched it. It spikes up to almost 4 amps and starts dropping right away. It turns off at about 3.5 amps. I've seen range igniters get week but never a dryer igniter. I couldn't find anything to tell me what normal amp draw should be.

 

[jeff1]

I've seen range igniters get week but never a dryer igniter.

Me either. Some say it can happen, but never has for me in 40+ years. The igniter either works or doesn't work.

I could hear the relay kick on to the igniter but didn't hear it light. I took the front panel off and watched the igniter cycle a few times.

Bad new part (not common, but happens).
Bad/intermittent gas valve (often makes noises, but not always).

jeff sr.

 

[Luke Finley]

Gas valve is the way I'm leaning too, but the coin box is right in the way. It doesn't look like a whole lot of fun. I'm going to give it a try. I'll update this once it's done.

 

[jeff1]

Please do keep us posted.

jeff sr.

 

[Luke Finley]

Update: Sorry it took so long. I replaced the gas valve and then I had no gas at all. I called Whirlpool and had them on the phone for more than an hour trying to figure things out. I was getting strange readings from the igniter and gas coils so we decided to swap the gas valve from the lower that was working, to the upper that wasn't. As a pulled things apart, I noticed a small plastic piece inside the inlet of the gas valve. I removed the original plug but apparently there was another chunk under it that I didn't notice. I removed that piece and everything started working. A true moment that made me feel dumb. Dryer is working great now and I'm putting that call to bed. Thanks for all your help.

 

[jeff1]

Thankx for the update.

jeff sr.