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SXD22S2W Amana I Replaced Evaporator Motor, by it only runs for about an hour before cutting off

JohnMc3

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Messages
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Model Number
SXD22S2W
Brand
Amana
Age
More than 10 years
Amana Side by Side I Replaced Evaporator Motor, by it only runs for about an hour before cutting off.

Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. A week ago, I opened the freezer section of my Amana side by side to grab some ice cream from the top shelf, and noticed it was soup. The bottom section was cold and there was a good bit of ice built up on the lower portion of the back panel. Also, the refrigerator was warm due to no air circulating. This is what I have done so far to try and remedy the problem:

I unplugged my freezer/frig and let the lower portion defrost. I tested the voltage to the evaporator motor, it tested at 120V, so I replaced the motor.

I then plugged it back in and a few minutes later cold air was circulating again, but within an hour the evaporator motor stopped, and the lower portion of the back freezer panel was frosting up again.

So, I ohm tested the Defrost Thermostat when it was cold, and it tested between 0 and 1 ohms.

I also ohm tested the heater element at the bottom of the coils and got an inconsistent reading, but it did register continuity. I also noticed that the left-hand side of the heater element where the wires ran into it, would get warm/hot but the rest of the heater element that ran under the coils stayed cold.

One other thing is if I left my freezer/frig unplugged overnight and then plug it in again in the morning everything works fine for about an hour even making a cycle of ice in the ice maker. But once the lower potion would freeze up, even after I turned it off and let it thaw out, the evaporator motor would not come back on or if it did, it was only at half speed.

So, before I buy a $300 Defrost Control Panel, could it be as simple as the heater element, and if so would that effect the fan not coming back on once everything had defrosted?

Thanks!
 

jeff1

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Hi,

Missing digits.
I found:

SXD22S2W-P1190404WW SXD22S2W-P1190416WW SXD22S2W-P1303503WW SXD22S2W-P1303512WW

I'd be inclined to replace the defrost thermostat and defrost heater....but we may learn some more once we see what model#/style yours is.

jeff.
 

rickgburton

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OK, I'm not sure if you're missing something or if you have more than one problem. I need the "P" number after the model number on your model tag. I don't see a "defrost control panel" in the parts breakdown. The evaporator fan motor is a 120 VAC fan motor.

I tested the voltage to the evaporator motor, it tested at 120V, so I replaced the motor........the evaporator motor would not come back on or if it did, it was only at half speed.
I read that as; the fan motor was not working but it was getting 120 VAC. Since it is 120 VAC motor, if the voltage dropped below 100V the motor wouldn't run. I've never seen one run at half speed so if the voltage is 120 VAC and the motor is running at half speed, bad motor.
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Evaporator-Fan-Motor/WPC8891605/2203?replacedManufacturerPartNumber=c8891605
Evaporator-Fan-Motor-WPC8891605-00878348.jpg

but within an hour the evaporator motor stopped,... freezer panel was frosting up again.
When the evaporator fan motor stopped did the compressor stop also? One hour is not long enough for the panel to get frost on it if the coils are clear.

..got an inconsistent reading,.....left-hand side of the heater element...would get warm/hot...the rest of the heater element stayed cold
If the defrost heater is getting 120 VAC, it's bad.
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Heater-Assembly/WP12049801/401435
Defrost-Heater-Assembly-WP12049801-05026307.jpg

there was a good bit of ice built up on the lower portion of the back panel.
It could be caused by a bad defrost heater or it could be a system issue. This is what you need to do; Unplug the machine and remove the evaporator cover. Use a hair dryer to defrost the evaporator coils. Make sure there is no ice or frost on the coils or the sides of the coils. Reinstall the evaporator cover (this is important or the machine will not cool). Plug the machine and set the controls on the factory settings. Wait a minimum of 24 hours and check the refrigerator and freezer temperatures. If it's still not cooling after 24 hours and the evap fan motor is running, leave the machine plugged in and running and remove the evaporator cover. Check the frost pattern on the coils. There should be a very light coat of white frost on all the coils top to bottom and side to side. A partial frost pattern indicates a system problem.
 

rickgburton

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oops sorry jeff, you weren't there when i checked I must be getting slow...lol
 

JohnMc3

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Hey Jeff,

Thanks for replying. When I tried to include all of the model number in the formatted model number thread starter box, I ran out of allowable space.

The full model number is SXD22S2W - P1190416WW

Thanks again your willingness to help!
 

JohnMc3

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Hello Rick,

see if my replies can add any additional insight?

OK, I'm not sure if you're missing something or if you have more than one problem. I need the "P" number after the model number on your model tag. I don't see a "defrost control panel" in the parts breakdown. The evaporator fan motor is a 120 VAC fan motor.

The second part of the number is P1190416WW


I read that as; the fan motor was not working but it was getting 120 VAC. Since it is 120 VAC motor, if the voltage dropped below 100V the motor wouldn't run. I've never seen one run at half speed so if the voltage is 120 VAC and the motor is running at half speed, bad motor.
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Evaporator-Fan-Motor/WPC8891605/2203?replacedManufacturerPartNumber=c8891605
View attachment 40313

The first thing I replaced about a week ago was the motor, as It appeared to be getting 120 volts when I tested it with my multi-meter. When I put the new motor in it started right up. When I say it runs at "half speed" is when it stops, I can actually tap on the motor housing and it will begin to spin again but hesitantly and slower.


When the evaporator fan motor stopped did the compressor stop also? One hour is not long enough for the panel to get frost on it if the coils are clear.

No the compressor continuous to run and the coils are ice cold, there just isn't any air flow.


If the defrost heater is getting 120 VAC, it's bad.
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Heater-Assembly/WP12049801/401435
View attachment 40314

I did not test the power to heater element I just did an Ohms reading, it would start at 100 and keep climbing well into the hundreds.


It could be caused by a bad defrost heater or it could be a system issue. This is what you need to do; Unplug the machine and remove the evaporator cover. Use a hair dryer to defrost the evaporator coils. Make sure there is no ice or frost on the coils or the sides of the coils. Reinstall the evaporator cover (this is important or the machine will not cool). Plug the machine and set the controls on the factory settings. Wait a minimum of 24 hours and check the refrigerator and freezer temperatures. If it's still not cooling after 24 hours and the evap fan motor is running, leave the machine plugged in and running and remove the evaporator cover. Check the frost pattern on the coils. There should be a very light coat of white frost on all the coils top to bottom and side to side. A partial frost pattern indicates a system problem.
 

rickgburton

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OK it sounds like your new fan motor is bad:

JohnMc3 said:
.. It appeared to be getting 120 volts when I tested it with my multi-meter.... I can actually tap on the motor housing and it will begin to spin...
Take it back to where you bought it and get a replacement motor. It should be under warranty.


JohnMc3 said:
I did not test the power to heater element..
JohnMc3 said:
...left-hand side of the heater element...would get warm/hot...the rest of the heater element stayed cold..
???

Replace the defrost heater
 

JohnMc3

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Hey Rick,

I tested the voltage going to the defrost heater element and it was 6.2 volts, is that within spec?

Also the motor runs for about an hour or so before it stops, if I unplug my freezer/refrigerator for a few hours and then plug it back in, the motor seems to start backup and run fine for another hour or so. Does that seem like the signs of a faulty motor?

Thanks,
 

jeff1

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Defrost heater should be getting 110-120 volts AC during the defrost mode.
The new fan motor does sound sour :(

jeff.
 

JohnMc3

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Hey Rick,

No I did not, I just turned the Freezer/Frig on after it had been off for about a day and immediately tested it. Only the compressor was running at the time, but the coils were getting cold.

One other question the I meant to ask, I think I saw where you said that this unit does not have a Defrost Control panel, if not does it have some sort of logic card that controls everything, or a defrost timer? Is so, where are they located?

Thanks again!
 

rickgburton

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You need to put the machine into a defrost cycle to check if the defrost heater is getting 120 VAC. The defrost timer is located in front, lower left side.
 

JohnMc3

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Hey Rick,

I went back to your original suggestion. I unplugged the unit for a day and let everything get back to room temperature. I plugged it back in and within a few minutes the motor began to run nice and strong and cold began blowing from the vents. It did so for about 3 hours. Additionally I placed a glass of water in the freezer and sometime during the 3 hours it had frozen. After 3 hours the unit stopped, no fan running, no compressor running. About 45 minutes later I came back to check on it and the compressor was running again, but this time the motor wasn't. So I removed the evaporator cover and took a picture of the frost pattern. There was a very thin cover of frost on every coil but the top 3rd was heavily covered in frost. I have attached a picture.
 

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JohnMc3

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Okay Rick,

I think I might have figured this out, but please confirm?

After I posted the pics above, I tested the voltage to the defrost heater element it measured at 120 volts, and the element was cold, I then put the unit into what I'm pretty sure was defrost mode, by pushing the refrigerator side light switch 5 times in 6 seconds. At this point the motor came back on again, nice and strong and the heater element got warm, not hot. As I'm able to press my fingers up against the element to feel a temperature change in it but it never gets hot enough to burn. And as I stated before only the beginning of the element ever gets warm, where the wires run into it. It never gets warm at the turn and down the backside.

One other thing I did notice, I disconnected the heater element wires during this process (to reconnect them again, just to make the connection was not loose) and when I did the motor cut off. When I reconnected the element wires the motor started right back up again.

So I'm thinking that motor is fine after all, and that there is a short in the heater element. Does that sound right?
 

rickgburton

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...voltage to the defrost heater element it measured at 120 volts,... I then put the unit into what I'm pretty sure was defrost mode, by pushing the refrigerator side light switch 5 times in 6 seconds.
OK First, that only works on refrigerators with adaptive defrost. Second, I'm not sure how you're testing these parts. You can't have 120 volts at the defrost heater and then put it into a defrost cycle. When you unplugged the machine to defrost it, you didn't check the evaporator coils to see if the machine needed defrosting. This shouldn't be that difficult. You're overthinking everything. The evaporator fan motor test is black and white, if there's 120 VAC at the fan motor and the fan motor is not turning or turning slow, it's a bad fan motor. Period, end of story. All the other information like the compressor turned off or it didn't turn off or the fan turned on or it didn't turn on, doesn't matter.

Your machine uses a mechanical defrost timer. It uses a motor to rotate a cam that opens and closes a set of contacts every 8 or 10 hours. To test the defrost system and put the machine in a defrost cycle, the machine must be on and running. Use a flat blade screwdriver and slowly turn the dial on the timer clockwise, one click at a time, until the machine shuts off. This is defrost mode and lasts about 23-26 minutes. The defrost heater should come on and get hot. According to your ohm measurement, your heater is bad. If you really do have 120 VAC going to the defrost heater and it's not hot then like the fan motor, it's bad.
 

JohnMc3

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Can you please attach the link for the mechanical defrost timer, so that I know what I'm looking for? When I search the repair clinic site it says my machine takes an adaptive defrost control board, you say it does not..

12050506 Control Adaptive-Defrost
 

rickgburton

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Hmm........The repair manual shows a timer so you'll need to physically look and see which one you have. The adaptive defrost board will be by the compressor, timer front lower left by the door hinge.
 

JohnMc3

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Okay this model utilizes an adaptive defrost board. For future reference it's located in the front lower left under the freezer door in a black oblong protective box. The part number on the board is 10678002. However it seems that it is not longer available, if indeed this is the culprit... The fact that it uses an ADB does that alter the potential problem diagnosis, or do still think it's the motor and possibly the heater element? If it could be the ADB what are the steps to make sure that it is? And if so, is there now an updated ADB (new part number) that replaces the old one that my model uses?

Thanks,
 

rickgburton

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....or do still think it's the motor and possibly the heater element?
yep, You can check the defrost heater and fan motor with your meter. Deja vu?
 
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