jptl
Premium Member
- Model Number
- 106.56536400
- Brand
- Sears Kenmore
- Age
- 6-10 years
Thanks to Jake's prompt response and his instructions on how to test my problematic ice maker, I figured that I'd take some pics and do a How-To to help out the next guy.
My Kenmore fridge is model # 106.56536400
My ice maker is model # 106 636663
I have in-door water, so I have a dual water inlet valve.
This procedure will work for Kenmore 106.56536400. It will likely apply to others, but I can't say for sure, so my steps apply to this particular model.
It isn't necessary to turn off the main water supply, or the supply to the fridge; and disconnecting water lines isn't necessary.
This procedure requires connecting the supply solenoid to 120v wall current using a 'cheater' power source. If you are uncomfortable doing this, or you're working in less-than ideal conditions, please don't attempt this. If your model is different from mine, please confirm that this is an appropriate test before doing it!
You'll need to get behind your fridge with enough space to access the water inlet valve which is located at the base of the chassis - right or left side(looking at it from the back of your refrigerator). The ice maker can be installed, or it can be out for this procedure.

You'll need:
Feel free to suggest changes/corrections.
My Kenmore fridge is model # 106.56536400
My ice maker is model # 106 636663
I have in-door water, so I have a dual water inlet valve.
This procedure will work for Kenmore 106.56536400. It will likely apply to others, but I can't say for sure, so my steps apply to this particular model.
It isn't necessary to turn off the main water supply, or the supply to the fridge; and disconnecting water lines isn't necessary.
This procedure requires connecting the supply solenoid to 120v wall current using a 'cheater' power source. If you are uncomfortable doing this, or you're working in less-than ideal conditions, please don't attempt this. If your model is different from mine, please confirm that this is an appropriate test before doing it!
You'll need to get behind your fridge with enough space to access the water inlet valve which is located at the base of the chassis - right or left side(looking at it from the back of your refrigerator). The ice maker can be installed, or it can be out for this procedure.





You'll need:
- A 'cheater' power plug, which is a wall plug with alligator clips attached to each wire on the other end. I was able to make a safe, solid connection using stripped wire ends, however.
- A 1/4" socket or wrench
- A cup to catch the water if your ice maker is removed
- Remove the screws that hold the cardboard dust cover, and remove the cover.
- Locate the water inlet valve, located at the base of the chassis on the right or left side(looking at it from the back of your refrigerator).
- Remove the two screws securing the water inlet valve to the chassis (see 1st pic)
- Pull the water inlet valve outward so that the power plug connectors to the solenoids can be accessed.
- Identify the correct water inlet valve solenoid for the ice maker. This is the solenoid over the thinner feed line (see 3rd pic)
- Remove the plug-in power connector for the ice maker water inlet valve solenoid.
- Using the unplugged 'cheater' power plug, clip a wire onto each spade terminal, or thread each stripped wire through the spade holes. (see 4th pic) Ensure that these connections are secure, don't have a chance of touching each other, and are away from the chassis of the fridge. Putting some electrical tape around each is a good preventative measure.
- If your ice maker is removed, place a cup, can or small bowl under the black supply hose located above the ice maker on the right side.
- Briefly plug in the 'cheater' power cord for 2 seconds or so and listen for operation of the solenoid. If it's operational, it will be clearly heard. Unplug the 'cheater' cord.
- Check the catch cup/can for water, or your ice maker tray for water.
- If you hear the solenoid after plugging in, but no water comes through the water inlet valve, you have a physical blockage in your line (possibly frozen or clogged). If you don't hear the solenoid after plugging in the cord, it's a bad water inlet valve.
Feel free to suggest changes/corrections.
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