Testing ice maker water supply at the solenoid

[Jake]

Still am not sure if I can put a 1/4" soft copper connection into quick connects?

No you can't do that.

Are you are well water Tim? Thats likely the reason your solenoids are not lasting.

Jake

 

[skydude]

I followed the directions as written by jptl earlier in this thread. The solenoid works correctly and the black tube allows me to breath air through it from the quick john connector. The arms inside the ice making module are flat, so I guess I need a new module. The model number is: 106.51559104

I assume that the ice making module I need is: WHIRLPOOL 8201515 Icemaker Motor Module, AP3177342 | AppliancePartsPros.com

I just want to double check that I have the correct model. Thanks for the great information on the forum!

 

[Jake]

Nope, the ice maker module yours takes is this one:
WHIRLPOOL W10190935 Ice Maker Control Module, AP4359694 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Jake

 

[skydude]

Awesome, I am sure glad I checked it out here before ordering. Thanks again!!!

 

[Jake]

Glad to help.

Jake

 

[Jim Cherryq]

I have a Kenmore model 596.76579600 with the same problem. It is not an in-the-door ice maker. The ice maker is in the lower freezer drawer. It is a side by side fridge above. I looked at the schematics and it doesn't look like there is a solenoid on this model, just an automatic ice maker. I noticed on the schematic that a fuse is indicated in the line. Could that be the problem? I checked the water line and it seems clear. I turned off the fridge overnight, but it still doesn't produce ice. No water is in the ice maker. I guess I can take off the back and see if it has a solenoid, on the schematic the water/ice solenoid valve is indicated in dotted lines which I assume means that not on this model. Any troubleshooting ideas?

 

[Jake]

Hi,

Yes, you have one valve.

Its #10 here:
(click to enlarge)


Located in the back of your refrigerator where your water supply line connects to.

You can do the same cheater test cord test as mentioned in the first post of this thread.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
Manufacturer Number 67003753[/COLOR][/B]


Jake

 

[Jim Cherryq]

Solenoid seems to work but no ice

Hi Jake, thanks for the help. I tested the solenoid with the wire and it works and pumps water into the ice maker. So I also know that the line is not clogged, but why won't it work on its own? Is there some kind of fuse or somthing that prevents power getting to the solenoid?

 

[rickgburton]

You most likely need an ice maker:

 

[Jim Cherryq]

Is there any way to test and see if it is not the control panel

Hi $130 bucks is a lot of money for this part. You don't think that the control panel could not be sending the signal to the valve? I noticed when I tried to do some of the diagnostics indicated on the paper behind the toe kick that the buttons didn't cooperate. I couldn't pull up the diagnostic window by doing as was indicated on the paper. Is there something screwy going on?

Thanks, Jim

 

[rickgburton]

FORCE CYCLE
To force cycle the ice-maker, remove the cover over the module and locate holes “T” and “H”. Take a small piece of wire bent in the shape of a U and short “T” and “H” together. The ice-maker will start the harvest cycle. Wait about 10 seconds and remove wire. The Ice maker will continue through the cycle. At the end of the harvest cycle the ice-maker supplies the coil on the water valve with 110 VAC.

 

[Jim Cherryq]

Ok thanks Rick, I will do that. The module is that box in the same area as the valve, correct? It's about 6" square. I was trying to get the cover off it today and couldn't do it. Does it unscrew or does it have tabs that you push? If the ice maker doesn't cycle, that tells me that it is dead, right?

 

[rickgburton]

No, the module is the ice maker module. The white cover will pop off. Holes "T" and "H" will be lower right corner.

 

[Jim Cherryq]

Thanks Rick,

I put the wire in holes T and H but nothing happened. I guess that confirms that the ice maker is defunct. I appreciate you walking me through this. I will go ahead and order the new ice maker. Have a sparkling day.

Jim

 

[rickgburton]

Jim, It's most likely the ice maker that's faulty and needs to be replaced. If you want to confirm it, take the ice maker out of the freezer and with a meter set to check AC volts, take a voltage reading between the white wire and the black or red wire in the wiring harness to make sure 110 volts AC is getting to the ice maker.

 

[David St Augustine]

Many, many heartfelt thanks to JTPL, Jake, & Rick!

Coldspot Model *106.56676501, no ice. The only thing I would add to JTPL's solenoid test is do it with the fridge off & unplugged. Otherwise, I successfully diagnosed & replaced a bad module using his procedure & Jake's replies to everyone's questions in this thread. Took a few minutes for it to fill--so many that I began to worry I had the wrong part--then Voilait kicked on. $ is really tight for us, y'all helped save Christmas! I'll point some business your way!

Merry Christmas!
David

 

[Jake]

Excellent David, good job.

Merry Christmas!

Jake

 

[Music Junkie]

Hey guys:

Read all the way through and found out that this can be lots of fun....

I have a Kenmore Elite Side by Side model number 106.51562101

1. Supply line from wall to fridge id good.
2. Switched solenoid wires and clicked on the water dispenser - water gets to ice maker no problem - so I assume from what I have read that the valve and solenoid are good
3. Went through the diagnostics manual and the optics seem to be fine - click three times close door, open door, light on for 5 seconds
4. Tried the jumper wire on three occasions and never got the unit to cycle.

I am assuming now that my next step is to purchase and install a new unit. Can someone back me up on this before I spend $100 - $150? Any help is really appreciated. This is a great thread and has tons of solid info in it.

Thanks,

MJ

 

[rickgburton]

Yeppers, time for a new ice maker. If you want to double check it, piece of cake. Unplug the ice maker wire harness connector. Use a volt meter to check for 110 VAC at the white wire and the black or red wire. You might have to hold the door switch in. If you got the volts the ice maker is bad. What you're doing by shorting T and H together is bypassing the thermostat and sending power directly to the ice maker motor. If the motor is getting power but the motor is not turning, 1+1=711 (that's where you can get ice until it's fixed.)

 

[Jake]

Yes, I agree with Rick.

Here's the ice maker for your model:
Complete icemaker assembly

Manufacturer's Part#: 2198597

Jake