• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

Testing infinite switch ... any other tests for inoperable element?

dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
189
Location
Canada
Hi Jake,

I have the CDN model electric range with the ceramic/glass top model # WEP83801. The front right heat surface/element is not heating up. When I set the knob to high just the like LED on the front bezel illuminates.

I tested the following:
240V across H1 and H2 <-----ok
continuity L1 and H1 <---------ok
continuity L2 and H2 <---------ok
continuity P and H1 <---------ok (resistance was about 50 ohms or so)

The P and H1 resistance was comparable to another infinite switch.

So is there anything else that I can check for ? It seems that the infinite switch is fine.

Looking at the schematic there is a box titled "Optional 2 - solid glass cooktop only" and it points to a 'Single Pole - Single Throw Switch', which is shown wired between H1 and R.F (RF is in a circle which I assume to be the element itself). Could this switch be inoperable? To access does the range top lift up with hinges?

In the Optional 4 box it is titled "Alternate Surface Element-Pot sensor" and it is showing a safety thermal N.C. symbol with some P1, P2, S1 switch symbol with a pilot lamp. Not sure what to make from this?

Regards,
Gus
 

dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
189
Location
Canada
I forgot to mention that perhaps I should be checking the element also. Will the resistance be in the range of 19 and 115 ohms?
As I mentioned in my first post, is accessing the element with a ceramic/glass top failrly straight forward?

Thanks,
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
40,696
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Gus,
Remove wires from H1 and H2 on switch. Do you have 220VAC at H1 and H2 on switch? While the wires are off read continuity through the element. Top lifts up, but you'll need a big screwdriver or something to prop it up while you take meter readings.
Rick
 

dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
189
Location
Canada
I am not sure what you mean by removing wires H1 and H2 from the switch. I left them so that I could measure the 220VAC on the switch. I had the wires off when measuring continuity. Maybe in one case I left one of the wires on because it was too tight to remove but regardless as long as one was off I was able to measure continuity.

Are there any hidden latches or screws that need to be removed before I lift the top up?
 

dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
189
Location
Canada
Redbeardnmt,

After reading your reply again, are you asking me to confirm that there is 220VAC at the black wires that go from the switch to the element?

Are there any hidden latches or screws that need to be removed before I lift the top up?

Gus
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
40,696
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
You're correct, only one wire needs to be removed. I say remove both because most don't have any experience and it removes any doubt. You obviously do have experience, sorry. The last one I worked on had screws in front and in back. Nothing hidden though. I'm not sure what model your working with but there shouldn't be any latches. There might not be any hinges either( screws in back)
 

dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
189
Location
Canada
Redbeardnmt,

I checked the element and sure enough it is shot. Open load on the multimeter. On a good element I measured about 25 - 30 ohms. I will have to call Whirlpool Canada in the morning to get a price quote.
How much can I expect to pay for the small front right element, which are the kind that fit underneath a glass top range?

I only found 2 screws that secure the element underneath the glass top. The screws are fixed on a switch that is used to illuminate an LED on the glass top range that the burner is ON. Are these the only screws?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
40,696
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Yes, those are the only screws. You'll find it's easier if you just loosen one and remove the other.
Rick
 

dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
189
Location
Canada
Thanks for your help. The part costs $128 CDN. I think for now we will live without it.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
40,696
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
No problem, maybe you can find a used one somewhere. That would be less expencive. good luck
Rick
 
Top