The sail switch is on the back. You just need to know the trick to get to it. You're in luck, I'm running a special on that trick for the low price of $100
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That trick might actually be worth more than $100 LOL. Your method makes perfect sense and I'm sure we have something or I can find something to use as the stool. You're the man
So I actually have some more news about this oven that my wife and I would obviously have separation anxiety due to getting rid of (strictly financially
) if we ever have to. I've been traveling for work and then my 2nd job trying to help my wife prepare for our first little one on the way (key word, trying), so it's taken me some time to get back to you. We really appreciate you sticking with us on this oven issue and wouldn't have made any of the progress we've made without your help, so thanks!
Ok, so I think I mentioned to you before that after having the SFR disconnected for about a week and the power to oven off during that time that I successfully got the oven to heat up just fine on the first try of a bake cycle before. The first time that happened I wasn't expecting it to heat up and since I had the latch panel removed but still dangling to the door light button and sitting in the oven as the oven was getting hot, I had my wife go run to cut off oven from breaker box. We weren't able to get the oven to heat properly again on this particular day after we turned the power back on, or at least we weren't patient enough with it.
And I'm not sure if I mentioned to you or not that I was able to successfully reproduce this scenario again maybe a week or so later though I don't remember if I had the SFR disconnected or if we'd had the oven power off for the days leading up to getting it to work again. What I do remember about this particular time is that either the oven power had been off or we turned it off and I used a small wooden stick to poke around the part that you say is probably the latch switch. This was around the time you first mentioned sail switch and I was poking around to see if any of the metal paddles of the latch area could be pressed in like a button or switch and I was hoping that this was the sail switch or the area where the sail switch is located. One of these metal paddles in the area did click in and is probably the latch switch like you mentioned. After pressing in this switch we turned on the power and started a cycle which worked and started heating but as I was putting the latch panel back on I shorted it causing many sparks when some metal from the back of the door light button touched some of the metal frame. Big learning experience there. I secured the latch panel while the breaker was tripped and turned on power to try again but it didn't heat, just stayed at 100F story of my life with this oven.
Still thinking that this latch switch might be the sail switch that we seemed to be getting close to pegging as the faulty part, I start to hypothesize that pressing in this metal switch while the power is off might a temporary fix to being able to use our oven when we want to. Maybe it's just coincidence that I press that switch/button and it sometimes works or maybe it just has to do with turning the power off and then on at the breaker, but we were able to cook a steak at 500F, biscuits at 375F last week, and French bread at 400F last night. That's about where we are right now but it's definitely not a sure thing. I don't know if this oven when working properly would have the elements hot to the touch within seconds of starting a cycle or if it normally takes a minute or two for current to get going through the element and start heating, but most of our testing this past week has seen the elements taking 1 to 2 minutes to even start warming and once it starts warming it only takes a second or 2 before it's too hot to touch. We've also seen it take anywhere from 5-15 minutes for elements to start heating after starting a cycle and we've also seen it take longer than that and stay cool to the point we cancel the cycle thinking that it isn't going to heat. It's very unpredictable. We've had some luck in the past week with starting with broil, letting elements get hot and then switching to bake. In the middle of all of this testing we've also seen a bake cycle go from the normal 100F initial display to about 120F and then just stay at 120F for 15 minutes or more until we finally canceled the cycle. This last one I don't really know how to explain unless it rose to 120F due to the ambient temperature increase from previous successful or semi-successful cycles in which case we can consider this scenario the same as the scenario where it just stays at 100F never getting warm since the increase to 120F is only because the oven hadn't cooled since a previous successful cycle. It's kind of a bummer that where we are with the oven right now could be the exact same place we were when we first started noticing the issue. The only differences could be that when the issue first started happening, all we knew was that it wasn't working right so we probably didn't give it more than 5 minutes before we gave up and started calling home insurance, control board repair companies, etc. Now, we're more patient with it and we have our methods or pseudo methods that have been fairly successful in getting it to heat. Aside from these methods, the only thing we've changed out is the used SFR that I put in. Also, the very first time we got the oven to heat after having power off for a week and SFR disconnected, it was our original SFR that I reconnected when it worked. I'm hoping that this last paragraph along with all of our other conversations might give someone with the knowledge and experience that you have a good idea at what's going on with this thing.
Oh, and that's awesome that I can measure the SFR voltages without the wires being connected. Clearly shows my lack of competency and what a great appliance tech or electrician I'd be. For now, we (my wife mainly) don't want to measure anything, at least not until you suggest otherwise, since, with your help we sort of fancy ourselves oven whisperers. Let's see if I can bake that pizza this week. I'll be looking forward to any insight you might have when you get a chance. No rush though. Thanks Rick! I owe you big time already!
..just kidding! I work on those wall ovens all the time and many times I've had to get to a part on the back. It's all I can do to lift my tool box let alone a double oven...lol. All you need is something the size of a milk crate. When my kids were small I made them a step stool so they could reach the sink and that works perfect. It needs to be about 2"-4" below the bottom of the oven. Slide the oven out of its installation, all but the last two inches. Then let the front of the oven rest on the stool or milk crate so it leans forward from there you can access the back of the oven. Here's a diagram:
