FIXED TR25VE Keeps getting stuck in Defrost mode

mach1970

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Aug 11, 2018
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11
Location
Pennsylvania
Model Number
TR25VE
Brand
Amana
Age
More than 10 years
P1196404WE

So I have the above refrigerator and it keeps getting stuck in defrost mode. If I turn the dial on the defrost timer it comes out of defrost mode and the Freezer and refrigerator work fine. I have replaced the defrost timer twice now, thinking the first new one was bad. So I got a second new one and it does the same thing. Oddly, if I test it on my work bench hooking power up to pins 1 and 3 it cycles in and out of defrost just fine. It is a 10 hour timer with a 33 minute defrost time. This is a stupid mechanical device. Why would it work on my bench and not in my fridge? I checked the connector and everything seems fine there. Plus it does go into defrost every 10 hours, just like it is supposed to.

Thanks. This is driving me nuts.
 

Jake

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Hi,

That's odd, I don't think I've ever seen that happen before.

Here's the defrost timer for your model:
R0168027 Timer, Defrost


Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, possibly the neutral is dropping out in the defrost cycle, I'd need to see your wiring diagram, which I don't have for this model, unfortunately.

Jake
 
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Jake

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Ok Rob, I need to ask Rick.

Jake
 

rickgburton

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It's possible the wiring is reversed on the timer. Can you take a picture of the timer and wires and post here?
 

mach1970

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Pennsylvania
Not possible. The wiring harness has a large white connector on it that plugs onto the timer and it is idiot proof. Can't be plugged in wrong due to the gap between pins 4 & 3.
 

rickgburton

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it keeps getting stuck in defrost mode...... Plus it does go into defrost every 10 hours, just like it is supposed to.
If it goes into defrost every 10 hours, it' not getting stuck in defrost or did I miss something??
 

mach1970

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Pennsylvania
It goes into defrost mode but never comes out of it. If I turn the defrost time knob out of defrost mode, the refrigerator runs and cools like it should. I have replaced the defrost timer twice now, I checked the defrost thermostat and heater and both ohm out and work correctly (even though that should have nothing to do with the timer functioning). The other odd thing is that none of the lights work in the refrigerator. Both lights in the fridge part and the one light in the freezer won't work. Tried new bulbs and checked both door switches, which ohm out correctly as well. This refrigerator has been great and has never had a single repair done to it. Seems a shame to get rid of it, but I can't figure out what it going on with it. As a side note, I checked the first new timer on my work bench, by making up a harness and putting 120V ac to pins 1 & 3, and it goes into and comes out of defrost mode just fine on the bench, but not when I put it in the Refrigerator. Very odd.
 

mach1970

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Did some more troubleshooting and found something interesting. According to schematic, I should have 120Vac on the red wire to the light switch and then out of the light switch on the red/white wire which take the 120 over to the light socket. Pull the light socket and I have to the 120 on the red/white wire like I should, but for some reason, I also have 120Vac on the white wire which should be going back to the neutral of the incoming power. There should not be 120V there. Both sockets in the refrigerator show this. Checked the freezer light socket and it also does this. The red/white wire has 120 and the white wire does too. That might be messing up the defrost timer. If I unplug both the red/white wire and the white wire from the light socket, and measure the voltage between each one and ground I get 120Vac. That shouldn't be.

Any ideas now?

Thanks for all the help.

Rob

P.S. I bought this fridge brand new 21 years ago and it has never needed service so no one has ever messed with the wires.
 
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rickgburton

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While the compressor is running, go in through the back of the connector and measure the voltage across 1- 3. Put the timer in defrost and measure the voltage across 1- 3. Post the results here.
 

rickgburton

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Check for a short by touching one meter lead to a machine screw on the refrigerator (gnd), and the other to a good ground like a water pipe or the ground hole in a wall outlet.
 

mach1970

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I did as you asked. In running mode (compressor running), I measured about 180mVac between pins 1 and 3, and in defrost mode it dropped to about 140mV. Seems odd to me. Like there should be 120Vac there at all times. Just for giggles, while the compressor was running I measured 120Vac on pins 3 & 4 and 120Vac between pins 3 & 2 when in defrost mode. This is what I expected. I also measured for a short like you suggested between a machine screw on the refrigerator and a ground hole in a wall outlet and it measured 3 ohms. Pretty much as expected.
 

rickgburton

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OK, one more time. Can you post a picture of the defrost timer with the wires connected to it? I have $5 that says it's wired wrong. I can afford to lose five bucks.

mach1970 said:
I also measured for a short like you suggested between a machine screw on the refrigerator and a ground hole in a wall outlet and it measured 3 ohms.
I'm looking for stray voltage, not stray Ω's...lol. This time set your meter to measure VAC.
 

mach1970

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Here is the picture that you requested. Like I said before, this refrigerator has never been worked on before. So unless it rewired itself.....it has been this way for 21 years now and has always worked fine. And you can't plug it in wrong with the gap between pins 4 & 3. It also matches the schematic.


Amana.jpg
 

mach1970

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Oh yea, and I measured the voltage you wanted me to measure from machine screw to outlet ground, and it was only 1.0mVac.

Thanks for you help with this.
 

rickgburton

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OK, unplug the machine and disconnect the defrost timer connector. Set your meter to measure continuity or the lowest ohms scale. Measure between the yellow wire (in the connector) and the small terminal on the plug (power cord). Then measure between the white wire (in connector) and the larger terminal on the plug. Your meter should indicate continuity for both measurements. If that is correct, plug the machine in and measure the voltage across the yellow and white wire (120 VAC).
 

mach1970

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Ok. Between the yellow wire and the small terminal I do have a short. Between the white wire and the large terminal I have 4.5Mohms and it charges up like their is a capacitor there. Just for reference, between the white wire and the small terminal I have 1.5kohms. So when i plug it in and measure voltage between the white and yellow wires I am only getting 85mVac.
 

rickgburton

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The neutral side is going to be the problem and since the lights don't work and the compressor does, it's going to be between where the power cord connects to the machine and where it goes through the machine into the freezer compartment. Look for a broken or pinched wire in the grommet or wherever there's a splice in the white wire. Start where the power cord connects to the machine.
 
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