• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake

Turn table and heating quite while in the middle of cooking

nddahlen

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2011
Messages
7
Location
Iowa
Model Number
EI27MO45GSA
Brand
Electrolux
Age
Less than 1 year
We were cooking dinner tonight in our microwave oven, and about half way through the turn table and motor (no noise coming from the unit) quit working. I am trying to figure out where to start on diagnosing the issue. My minds says fuse, but than why would the light and timer still work? Maybe the capicitor but does that run the turn table as well?

HELP!
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Hi,

Model Number: EI27MO45GSA
Brand: Electrolux
Age: Less than 1 year
Is it really under 1 year old?....if yes don't mess with it and void your warranty, call and have locla warranty depot check it out for you.

about half way through the turn table and motor (no noise coming from the unit) quit working. I am trying to figure out where to start on diagnosing the issue. My minds says fuse
No fuse, the wholeunit would go off if the fuse let go.
Make sure no one pushed the turntable off key.
Power to the turn table motor tested with a volt meter and no go = new motor time.

00672909.jpg Motor,turntable Manufacturer Number 5304448832

jeff.
 

jeff1

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I am sorry it is 3.5 yrs old.
Ok, out of normal warranty then :(

We were cooking dinner tonight in our microwave oven, and about half way through the turn table and motor (no noise coming from the unit) quit working.
I just realized you said "motor" and turn table....by motor did you mean the magnetron?

What exactly happens when you set a time and press start...clock counts down, light comes on, turn table comes on, fan comes on?
If only the clock counts down but nothing else is happening, check the door switchs for sure!


Most microwave door switches can be tested for continuity to see if the switch has failed

CAUTION WHEN REPLACING LATCH SWITCHES

Microwave parts how to test capacitors, switches, magnetrons high voltage diodes

jeff.
 

nddahlen

Premium Member
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Nov 30, 2011
Messages
7
Location
Iowa
Thanks Jeff.

When I plug in and put a minute on the timer, it counts down and the light comes on but nothing else. Would you suggest replacing all door switches or finding just the one that is bad and replacing that one?
 

nddahlen

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
7
Location
Iowa
I think it might be the capacitor, do you have a picture of what a good one looks like. The top on mine isn't exploded but it doesn't look right to me.
 

jeff1

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Would you suggest replacing all door switches or finding just the one that is bad and replacing that one?
Just the one that is bad.....sometimes the switchs are cheap enough so changing them all wouldn't breka the bank! ;)

I think it might be the capacitor
HVCapacitor? That is for the cooking only....won't stop anything else.

I just realized you said "motor" and turn table....by motor did you mean the magnetron?
??

00997731.jpg Door switch - Manufacturer Number 5304440026 Need 2

01079099.jpg Switch - Manufacturer Number 5304468224 Need 1

01042501.jpg HVCapacitor - Manufacturer Number 5304462258

jeff.
 

nddahlen

Premium Member
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Messages
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Location
Iowa
As for the motor I would say yes it is the magnetron. I shut the door and start the timer, the timer works and the light comes on, but nothing else does. This includes the fan not turning on.
 

jeff1

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Definetly have to check the door switches/door switch mechanism!

jeff.
 

nddahlen

Premium Member
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Nov 30, 2011
Messages
7
Location
Iowa
All the door switches read the correct ohm when I test them. Should I just get another switch and test with that?
 

jeff1

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