• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

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UMV1152CAB Maytag Microwave works, but no display


Premium Member
Sep 19, 2006
Model Number
More than 10 years
Seems to need Whirlpool part DE94-01354A or Samsung part AP4236469 ??

Everything about the microwave works except the display, am I right in assuming the display is not available separately from the entire panel/control board?

Someone had suggested in another thread to unplug it for a while. We bought the microwave used with this problem, and actually had unplugged it for 3 days recently.

ALSO: A few days ago it seemed to stop heating when immediately turned on. At that moment it would not turn off (the Cancel button didn't work) and opening the door did not stop the interior light nor turntable. And so we unplugged it. 3 days later, plugged it back in all seems normal.

So is this new development likely to be intermittent, or will the control board actually die entirely pretty soon?

I won't spend $100 for "just" the display but might if the board flakes out more.
Last edited:
Seems to need Whirlpool part DE94-01354A or Samsung part AP4236469

No. The part likely need is the electronic control with the LED display. The part number you looked up looks to just the the trim and push buttons.

LINK > Electronic Control # W10127090

Unfortunately it is discontinued. There are a couple of places that will rebuild your original control board.

LINK > W10127090 Rebuild Service


Dan O.
Picked up a replacement control board.

Now I have a display, however a familiar problem still occurs intermittently: Starts up but stops a few seconds later with "88:88".

Just now, after a few attempts I was able to coax 30 seconds out of it. Waited a minute or so and another 30-second operation was successful. Might work "just fine" today. Overall, it acts as if it has to "warm up" before staying on.
If readers are confused, I started a separate thread because of a separate issue but that curiously got merged into this one.

The new display works fine, but here we are in the original thread about the display not working.
It was possibly merged with this message as it's likely the same problem, even if different symptom. Without getting the whole story from the beginning, starting another thread might not be the most efficient way to get assistance.

There are only 2 things I can think of that would cause the display to return to 88:88. The most likely is a defective circuit board. You might want to check with the people you bought it from about a warranty.

The other I've only seen happen once. The seal around the magnetron tube was leaking microwaves inside the oven cabinet which affected the electronic control's operation. If the magnetron tube hasn't been serviced or tampered with, I think that being the cause is extremely unlikely leaving the first suggestion as most likely IMO.

Dan O.
Dunno if the tube was ever replaced since we'd picked this oven up 2nd hand some years ago. When we replaced the control board this morning we noticed one of the plastic mounting points was broken and a screw was missing. The board wasn't totally secure.

Would a leaking seal or sometimes-faulty allow the oven to work normally after an attempt or two? Seems like, when sitting for some or several hours the first attempt to run may not work, but doing it again or so and it'll work just fine. If it stops with 88:88 it auto-resets to 0 and is ready for another go of it.
The results of the leaking microwaves were totally random. However, if you haven't touched the magnetron tube since you've own it, it is extremely unlikely to be the cause. Those seals don't fail on their own, only when tampered with.

Dan O.
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