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Unit Fills With Water then Stops - Cancel Does Nothing

RLBJr71

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2014
Messages
3
Location
Wrightsville, PA
Model Number
KUDS24SEAL1
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
More than 10 years
KitchenAid model KUDS24SEAL1 stopped working on Thanksgiving. We ran one load fine. Set it to run a second load overnight and found it had stopped mid cycle with water still in tub.

Command panel lights. Cycle will start, run water, then stop. Canceling does not drain water.

I tested fuse and it seems OK. Tested with multimeter for continuity and resistance and it seems fine although the fuse itself looks to be blackened. I tested based on Internet videos; I'm not an electrical expert, so I think it tested OK.

I also disassembled the impeller on the bottom of the tub down to and including removing the drain cover. No significant blockage found. Somewhere along the line, it caused the remaining water in the tub to leak out of the bottom onto the floor under the unit. Didn't expect that to happen. Reassembled and tried running the Rinse cycle today. It filled up with water and then stopped again. Cancel did nothing.

Any help would greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
116,020
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Bob,

So it fills but the motor won't start? Any sounds at all like a humming sound when the motor should be running? Same with drain/cancel any sounds?

Sounds like your control board went out.

Check for 120 volts coming in across P7 and P8 on the control board, I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

Here's the control board for your model:
Main Control Board 8051136


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Attachments

  • Tech Sheet - 9743409.pdf
    1.1 MB · Views: 123

RLBJr71

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2014
Messages
3
Location
Wrightsville, PA
There are no sounds whatsoever when the motor should be running. Same silence after pressing the Cancel button. An associate at a local appliance store thinks it's the control board, too.

I'm a complete novice with the multimeter. How would I test for 120 volts on P7 and P8?

Is it worth trying to replace the board as the unit is at least 11 years old and possibly about 18 years old if it's the original installed when the house was built? I'd hate to give up on this unit as it seems like it's still in very good shape. Then again, I don't want it to nickel and dime me in repairs over the next few years until up and quits completely.

Thanks,
Bob
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
116,020
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes Bob, your dishwasher was made in 1997, so its 17 years old, and since its that old it would be more wise to save the repair money on the control board and just buy a new dishwasher, as other parts are wearing as well.

Average life of dishwashers now is only 8-12 years, so its had a good life.:)

Jake
 

RLBJr71

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2014
Messages
3
Location
Wrightsville, PA
Yea, I that's the plan. I'm thinking of repairing this one if I can and giving it to my Dad & Stepmom as a starter if they want it.

So, if I did it right, the board has 120 volts on P7 (white) and P8 (tan). My multimeter must be an odd one as all instructions and online videos state to plug the red lead into the port with the V and ohm symbol. However, my multimeter has a separate port for each. If I plug into the V port, I get 120 volts AC. If I plug into the ohm (resistance)/continuity port, I get nothing. So, if I'm thinking correctly, does that tell me that I have power to the board? Is there something else to check to see if the board is working?

Thanks again,
Bob
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
116,020
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Thats correct Bob, V=volts

So you have 120 volts to the control board and no volts coming out to power the motor, so its a bad board.

Jake
 
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