FIXED VGIC305-4BS Viking gas oven burners sputter or are very low

pjstock

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toronto
Model Number
VGIC305-4BS
Brand
-major brand-
Age
More than 10 years
I'm not sure if you guys analyze gas appliances but here goes.my old Viking oven was one day very slow to preheat.
it seemed that one of the burner tubes was throwing full flame but the other would sputtter (especially when I opened the door) and die to nothing.

removing the burner tube on the side that had died, the tube itself seemed enlarged at the point where the ignitor attaches (so where it takes most heat I presume) and the boles there seemed enlarged and a bit cracked. (I don't imagine this is "normal" but I don't knwo how it would affect the flame. the combination of oxygen and gas?)

when I swapped the two burner tubes (trying to show that the problem was the burner tubes and not something further down the line) they initially both burned but only very low. when I swapped them back to what I think was their orifinal position, the LH burner (which was initially out) burned low and the RH burner (which was originally FULL) was out.

Before I buy new buner tubes (which are about $100 USD each) i'd love to have some idea that the current burner tubes are the likely culprit.

another question. should the ignitor stay on all the time the oven is in use? or only during startup, to get the tubes up to temperature? Mine seems to stay on all the time.

model VGIC305 - 4BSS

S/N R09179914949

It's labeled Ultraline (which I believe was the Viking name for the units here in Canada.)

Peter
 

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rickgburton

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The burner tubes are nothing more than a gas delivery device. While the hole in the left burner might affect the way it ignites, it wouldn't stop the gas flow. The problem is more likely to be the igniters or oven safety valve. Check the amp draw for each igniter they need approximately 3.2 to 3.6 amps to flows through the bake or broil circuit. The bi-metal arm is heated causing it to flex or bend, allowing gas to flow to the burner where it is ignited by the burner igniter. An amperage reading less than 3.2 will cause the gas valve to partially open, resulting in a reduced gas flow to the burners.
 

pjstock

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I am not electrical Ace so am I doing this Amps test correctly?
I disconnected the leads to one of the ignitors, stuck one multimeter probe in each, set the MM to 2-20A and turned on the oven.
but I only see to get a reading of ,013 which doesn't make any sense (at least not to me)

but bizarrely too, the burners seemed to be both burning a full force this morning. and I did nothing to change anything since my last report (except uninstall the tubes and reinstall them.)
 

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rickgburton

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You're using the wrong part of the meter. The blue clamp goes around a wire and the meter leads are not necessary.
43996
 

pjstock

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super helpful diagram.
I'll check that again when I am back in front of it.

in the process of testing I did manage to short it out and generate a massive spark which seems to have fried and severed the cable from the Ignitor Connector to the Ignitor. if I can't repair the wire, I might have to buy a new IC (as the wire seems integrated.)
live and learn
 

pjstock

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I tested the amp draw on the one working circuit and I got 2.9x amps.
so, what does that mean Dr Freud?

do I need a new Oven Safety Valve or Ignitor Connector(s)?
 

rickgburton

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You need the Igniter. I'm sure you're probably aware because it's a Viking it's almost impossible to find service information or parts without going through Viking. Here's the reason why. This is a Viking flat style oven igniter. I don't know if this is the same as yours but probably.


This is a Frigidaire igniter that will work in its place:


You need to check your igniter and see if it is the flat style before you order one. Both igniters are 3.2 to 3.6 amp igniters.
 

pjstock

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Excellent . Found some . Not too.expensive.

But if i wanted to replace that blown wire (i.dont have much to work with to.rejoin and i dont know how sound it is upstream) how would i access it to replace it?

It seems.to.run down the RH outside corner edge, i presume.from.the panel with the knobs.but i.dont know how to access it all


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rickgburton

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pjstock said:
Found some . Not too.expensive.
Careful, notice I didn't say any 3.2- 3.6 igniter will work. I'm not sure how that one disassembles. I think the side comes off.
 

pjstock

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I just received the new ignitors (and I am pretty confident these replacements are compatible.)
final question (I hope). why do I need to use ceramic wire nuts to connect two wires in the system (I assume for their insulating properties) but the Male-Female clip connections in this setup are (or seem to be) simply plastic coated.
 

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rickgburton

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pjstock said:
why do I need to use ceramic wire nuts....
You don't need to but the plastic connectors will eventually melt. Not from the oven heat but the constant current draw when the oven is on. Make sure they are tight.
 

pjstock

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new ignitors installed and oven back working correctly again.
thanks Once Again for your help.
 
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