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Vintage 103.238500 Kenmore Maid-O-Matic - need parts info


Premium Member
Apr 17, 2023
Model Number
Model number embossed on plate: 103.238500
Serial: 798948

But this number doesn't get any hits in searching.

The range is about 60+ years old, going from childhood memory. Rotisserie on left, oven with broiler below on right, 5 burners, griddle plate option (I think) for central burner.

At this time I need oven door springs (or specs), but a manual with parts list would be nice to have.

Any help appreciated. Thanks


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I'm afraid you'll have to contact Sears to see if someone there is someone willing to look it up for you. (If it's not listed online, maybe not.) That model is too old and not in their microfiche parts literature. I'm not sure you'd be able to trace their part number anyway and there are no 'specifications' likely available to give you.

If you still have the original spring(s) you might have a better chance of finding someone to make custom replacements or take them to a local part supplier or used appliance store to see if they can match anything close.


Dan O.
Thanks for the prompt reply.

Disappointing. I guess the internet may not be all powerful after all... I've spent some time looking around for specifics and so far, not much luck.

I guess I'll see if I the 2nd spring comes out in one piece to use as a sample and measure. IIRC, they are just straight springs, about 6" or so, fairly high rate. I had to replace some before in one of our buildings, but don't recall which stove was the problem or how I sourced them.

guess the internet may not be all powerful after all.

Appliance information is rarely found online for models before the 1980's.

they are just straight springs,

It's not coiled?

You can see some oven door springs from various brands at the following link. You can judge their rough measurements from the grid in the photos.

LINK > Oven Door Springs

> coil

Sorry. Meant a coil spring about 3/8" diameter by about 6" or so long. A little like some of the brake springs on old style drum brakes, but those were shorter. Yeah, I guess most coil springs are straight... <g>
Updating this. Could not find any specs. Even with a sample, visiting in person, suppliers can't conveniently riff through stock to find likely match. So.

Point of info. Somebody on one of the sites (here?) said this stove was made by Roper. One old appliance guy recognized the model and agreed, it was probably a Roper stove. FWIW.

After experimenting on an old spring, I sourced some likely suspects from these guys:

Free length hook tip to hook tip = 5-1/2", approx
Spring wire = .080"
Rate = 4.5#/in

Here's the link:

This is just a starting point because these need to be modified. This approach will not work for most people and It would be far, far better to shake the supplier tree until you find something close. It's the ends that are the problem. Those straight extensions for one or both hooks can make it _much_ easier to install the spring and make it work.

Modifying the spring ends requires a small hot flame to bring the metal into the cherry before bending or snipping it. Air/Acetylene does this perfectly, but the torch is not common DIY. 40 years ago, this torch was in every plumbing truck, but not any more; however, there is enough need (silver soldering) that they can be ordered easily. A small setup can easily run $400-500. The tips alone for the TurboTorch (there are other brands) run $75 - and the small one that does the job well isn't found in most kits that I've seen.

I found I needed a tool to hold the spring up inside the oven wall high enough to reach the hinge. I made this from a coat hanger, but something twice as stiff would be better - it was too flexible, although workable.

I think it's good to add a small outward bend at the very end of the wire (on the "return" of the hook) in order to make it easier to guide the hook into the holes.

I'm going to try to add picks. This was ugly and the pictures show it; I was pressed for time. If it fails (spring breaks), next time I'll stretch out more wire from the coils, giving me less spring tension and more extension for the hooks to work with; hopefully make it prettier. Getting the tip to tip length exactly right is critical, at least in this application. It controls the closed tension _and_ how hard it is to get the 2nd hook into the hole. About 1/4" shorter than the closed distance seems right; maybe 3/8, but no more. With the tool (which I'll upgrade) installing the spring is sorta possible, especially after 15 minutes or so of OJT.



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