FIXED Vintage Frigidaire cooktop dead

[scottg96039]

Model Number

RDGEB-37C

Hi I'm Scott
What I lack in appliance expertise I make up for in other ways and will be happy to help in any matters of antiques, musical instruments and tools.
Nobody knows everything.... haahha

My cooktop dropped out. The whole thing, all burners dead.
The oven and lights work fine.
A look inside is showing me no burn marks anywhere. Nothing loose All connections are tight and clean,

I like this stove. It takes a while to heat up but I have never burned anything on it once and the oven is ridiculously stable.
It was a wreck but I scrounged parts from the town dump and put it back together.
I can probably get a newer part to work if I could isolate the problem.

 

[Dan O.]

My cooktop dropped out. The whole thing, all burners dead.

Did they all stop at exactly the same time?

Will the oven element(s) glow red when the oven is turned on now?


Basically, if they all surface stopped at the same time you'll be looking for a stoppage in common with them all. If even the oven elements don't get red when on, looking at the power circuit to the whole range would be necessary.

If you can post a clear photo of its wiring diagram, we might be able to suggest a possible culprit. We're pretty helpless without it.


Dan O.

 

[scottg96039]

Thank you for answering Dan
Lookie what I found? The original wiring diagram.
So the power main is fine. The oven works flawlessly.
The oven light works, even the little hidden fluorescent top lamp.

All the burners went out at once. Actually they had worked fine last I used it and were simply DOA when I switched on.

The cooktop looks to be tied to the little 2X2" control board? Its the one in the middle of the second pic above.
Its all bright and clean (no swollen or burnt parts)
I cleaned all the push on terminals with contact cleaner.

 

[Dan O.]

The original wiring diagram

Great job on the picture but the writing is difficult to make out.

The cooktop looks to be tied to the little 2X2" control board? Its the one in the middle of the second pic above.

I don't know what you're referring to. Can you post a closeup?

I see a connector that might be all the wiring to the surface units. Maybe there's a loose connection in it? It is shown at the top, centre and labelled Chassie(?) Harness in the wiring diagram.


Dan O.

 

[scottg96039]

Hi Dan Thanks for sticking with me. The light was terrible yesterday so I took new pics.
1 Hopefully better wiring diagram

2 Power comes in at the base

3 Up to main connector block

4 from there it goes to the "module" for the burners

and also the oven relay (not shown but in the full pic its lower right with my tape labels from when I took it apart and cleaned it 10 years ago, been working ever since btw) )

5 power from the module is split for each side (2 burners each side) through these big 8 way plugs.

6 Full pic

Since all burners are out I don't really suspect the 8 way plugs although I pulled one apart and hosed it down with contact cleaner.
The other is more buried so I just spritzed it from the top and let it soak in. (Caig Deoxit)

I kind of suspect the "module" but it looks all clean and nice.
I can't imagine fining another one if I need it.
There are only a few parts involved. I could certainly hunt down and solder new parts on if I knew what was causing trouble.

PS there is a small circuit breaker with the exposed button on the front of the stove,
but I pulled the wires off for a minute and its got continuity. Too bad, that would have an easy fix lol

 

[Dan O.]

I think these might be fuses running through the center of a resister although I don't see them listed on the wiring diagram. Check each for continuity from end to end in case. (I do think I see some discoloration on one of the leads. If so it might indicate a problem with it.)



Failing that, trace these wires from the element switches and see where they go. Those are the power wires to the switches.



PS. Most of the text on the wiring diagram is still difficult to read except at the center.

Dan O.

 

[scottg96039]

Wow Dan Great eyes!!
Yes discolored on top, clean underneath, both of them.
When I took the screws out the centers both fell out.
The elements have no continuity laying on the table
The outer ceramic covers are soldered to the board in different places?
I didnt take the board all the way loose. I will have to mark all wires first. But I can.
This crookedy pic was the best I could get for now.

They are both marked Ohmite
1D69NF (could be an L hard to tell)
50 ohm sign +/- 10%

I am treading deep water now

 

[Dan O.]

The elements have no continuity laying on the table

By elements you mean the thing I pointed out that looked discolored? It/they appears to be a fuse.

They are both marked Ohmite 1D69NF

I assume that Ohmite 1D69NF is what is written on the ceramic resistor attached to the board? I'm not concerned with it if it doesn't appear damaged but you could test its resistance.



If the fuses (pictured above) test as open (ie. infinite resistance), we need the numbering off them. It should have their temperature rating printed on them.


Dan O.

 

[scottg96039]

The resisters test 50 ohms on both the 2000 and 200 settings

The fuses are right at the edge of impossible to read.
Patented
Manufacture
Dayton
FM 176c but could be 128c just as easy.
I see some similar looking 128c fuses listed?

Was running fuses through the middle of resisters something people did?

 

[Dan O.]

Was running fuses through the middle of resisters something people did?

Yes. If excessive current flows through the resistor, it overheats and trips the fuse. Nowadays they're both built into a single compact component.

FM 176c but could be 128c just as easy.
I see some similar looking 128c fuses listed?

I've never seen a similar fuse with so thick of wires. Most use thinner wires. I'm not sure if there is a reason, maybe amperage on the circuit or voltage? The highest amperage I found for similar fuses was 20 amps at 250 volts. The only temperature close I found was 185 deg C. which would be fine to replace 176 deg C.

LINK > 250V 20A 185 Celsius Circuit Cut-Off


You might need to take a sample to a specialized electronics or electrical supplier to see if they know of a closer replacement.

Dan O.

 

[scottg96039]

Cant thank you enough Dan. I am trying them.

So about the smaller lead wire, well everything else in the stove is oversized, its old! haaha
h
Those fuses are over 50 years old. I hope that is enough to have made them pop.

I did find and clean some minor corrosion in the terminals at the main junction strip. Everything else in sight has been cleaned too.
Didn't see anything that would stop major amperage, but what do I know about kitchen stoves?

 

[Dan O.]

Let us know how it does. Hang onto the originals in case you need to find a closer replacement.

Dan O.

 

[scottg96039]

Houston we have no problem! Whoo hooo
I got the fuses (finally). Slow boat shipping, and I doubt 18" of snow here and 4 feet over Mt Shasta pass didn't help much

They were too big in diameter to go through the resistors, but I had plenty of stiff wire lead so I worked them to lean tight against the resistors anyway.
So far it works perfectly.

I still can;t believe you spotted that they were fuses running through the middle of resistors.
I never saw that before

Anyway Can't thank you enough.
If I had your Paypal address I would certainly buy you a beer
cheers scott

 

[Dan O.]

worked them to lean tight against the resistors anyway.

Keep an eye on it still. We don't even know if they're the correct temperature let alone if they'll be activated in that configuration should it become necessary.


Feel free to support the forums at the link below. If it wasn't here, I wouldn't be either.

Dan O.