FIXED WBVH5300K1WW GE T11 passed test still getting E42 code

TonyElgin

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Dallas, NC
Model Number
WBVH5300K1WW
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
If the T11 test spins to full RPMs (1000+), but the washer still fails to spin on any cycle with the E42 error code, then doesn't the problem have to be the inverter not sending the correct voltage to the motor? If the motor passes the T11 spin test, then the motor is OK, right? Or can a bad motor still pass the T11 spin test?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,632
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Tony, so what your saying is it does fine on T11, but with a load of clothes in the drum on a normal cycle it does E42?

E42/E48/E49/E46/E54 Motor Related Errors

These three errors are motor errors and can be caused by a bad inverter or motor. First, clear the code, exit the service mode and disconnect the power to the washer for at least 30 seconds. Don’t disconnect the power until you exit the service mode because it may damage the control.

Ohm test your motor first, because it can still be a motor problem with a load in it.

Shawn explains how to ohm test the motor here, read where it says Motor Windings: http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/front_loader_washer.html

Here's the motor for your model:
WH20X10028 Motor Asm Kit


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

TonyElgin

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Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Dallas, NC
OK thanks. I was hoping the T11 test could be used to isolate the problem. I checked the motor windings and they pass with 6.4 ohms each and the ground is good. I then pulled the P9 connector and could not find continuity, so the problem must be the speed sensor on the motor. While removing the motor, I did notice one of the two yellow wires that runs from the inverter to the motor had been rubbing the motor base and was pinched, with just a few strands of the wire still connected. I spliced and reconnected the wire, and rechecked the P9 connector, but still no continuity. So I removed the motor and went ahead and checked the continuity on the two smaller red wires that runs to the speed sensor. It shows 116 ohms, but I was expecting no continuity here as well. BTW, if the speed sensor is bad, how was the T11 test able to spin at max RPMs? Or does the T11 test bypass the sensor? Thanks again. I appreciate the info.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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That's a good question Tony, but I don't know if T11 bypasses the sensor, but that sounds logical since it was able to spin at max RPM's.

So with those wires you found pinched and you fixed those are you still getting the E42 now?

Jake
 

TonyElgin

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Dallas, NC
Good point. Since I could not find continuity at the P9 connector, I went ahead and removed the motor assuming the speed sensor is bad. I was about to pull the trigger now to purchase a new motor. Instead, I will put the motor back on to see if it still gets the E42 error code. Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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I will put the motor back on to see if it still gets the E42 error code.
Ok, if not your good to go, if you do get E42 then its definitely the motor.

Jake
 

TonyElgin

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Dallas, NC
Good news! It's working and spinning like it should, and with no errors. I appreciate you stopping me in time and telling me to reinstall the motor to test it one more time. You saved me over $300. But I'm still curious why I was never able to get continuity at the P9 connector. I probed the back side of the connector on both yellow wires and it never showed continuity, which is why I was going with the problem being a bad speed sensor. This turned out to be a false positive.

In my case, the reason the washer would not spin was because the wiring connector, which is strapped to the base of the motor, had rubbed through the wiring insulation on one of the yellow wires. I realize it has to be strapped to the motor base or else the connector could be pulled loose, so this time I wrapped the wiring in that section several times with electrical tape to give it added protection before strapping it tighter with a zip tie.

The factory zip tie allows too much play with the way it snaps into the motor base. It's plastic rubbing against metal, constantly tugging on the wire coming from the power inverter. It eventually wears and allows the wiring to slide back-and-forth against the metal of the motor base. I guess we're lucky it was one of the yellow wires. There is a recall on this unit for the thermistor wiring for this same reason. https://www.geappliances.com/ge/recall/washer_2010/
Thanks again.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Excellent Tony, glad to hear that.:)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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