FIXED WDF530PLYB7 Whirlpool Dishwasher runs but will not fill after replacement of inlet water valve

Mharnisch

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Perrysburg Ohio
Model Number
WDF530PLYB7
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
My Whirlpool Dishwasher Model WDF530PLYB7 will start like it is running but will not fill with water. A couple years ago the dishwasher overflowed and I could not determine why. It only did it once. I went ahead and bought a new valve but did not install it. The dishwasher ran fine until a couple days ago when it started to leak at the bottom of the door. When I opened it the water level appeared to be too high so I think that is why it was leaking. So today I removed the float switch to check it’s operation. It seemed to work ok so I reinstalled it. Then I suspected that maybe the inlet valve might not be closing fully so I installed the new valve that I had purchased a couple years ago. I started the unit and it ran but did not fill with water (no water at all). Thinking that the new valve might be defective, I reinstalled the old valve. That didn’t make any difference. I rechecked the float switch and it appeared to be ok. I am baffled why neither valve will let water in. Any suggestions on what I can do will be greatly appreciated.
 

rickgburton

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34,386
Location
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Make sure the water is turned on. Check for 120 VAC at the water valve. If there's no voltage turn off the power and check the float switch for continuity.
 

Jake

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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, I agree with Rick.

Here's the float switch for your model, when you click the link to it you will see 2 videos, 1 on how to access it, 1 on how to ohm test it:

Jake
 

Mharnisch

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Perrysburg Ohio
Make sure the water is turned on. Check for 120 VAC at the water valve. If there's no voltage turn off the power and check the float switch for continuity.
Thanks for your response. Water is on. Not sure how to check voltage at valve. I suppose I would need to disconnect the wiring plug at the valve. I have a multimeter but not sure if the probes will fit in the plug. Will give it a try through. Tested the float switch in place by pushing the plunger without the unit running. Seemed to work as I could hear clicking. I will remove it and test it with my meter. Is there a way to do a diagnostic test on the unit without any special equipment? I know it can be reset if there is a light flashing, but I don’t have any flashing light. The usual lights stay on just like they did when it is working.
 

Mharnisch

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Perrysburg Ohio
Yes, I agree with Rick.

Here's the float switch for your model, when you click the link to it you will see 2 videos, 1 on how to access it, 1 on how to ohm test it:

Jake
Thanks for your response. I will remove the switch and ohm test it. I can hear a click when pushing on the plunger so it seems like it should be working.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

Last run cycles and options returned to default (Normal cycle with Heated Dry option).

Last run delay returns to the lowest delay increment.

Calibration cycle may force an extra rinse to occur prior to Final Rinse (to assure clear water), then calibrates the OWI and the fill amount during the final rinse.

Operating state returns to Standby upon completing or terminating the Service Diagnostics Cycle.

Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”

Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes and has 25 intervals. The diagnostic cycle starts with interval 25 and ends on interval 1.

Interval 25 turns on all the LED’s as a display test. Intervals 24 – 23 – 22 and 21 are for error codes.

The Clean (or Completed) LED will flash the error codes in two parts. The Clean LED will first flash the function code, pause for 2 seconds then flash the problem code, pause for 5 seconds then repeat three times (unless advanced by the Start key to the next interval). If there are no error codes the Clean LED will stay on solid for 5 seconds.

Interval 20 is a 10 second pause. Press the Hi-Temp key to clear the error codes.

Intervals 19 – 3 is the service diagnostic cycle. Intervals

2 and 1 are for error codes found during the diagnostic cycle
 

Mharnisch

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Perrysburg Ohio
Thanks Rick for this info. If there is a problem with the float switch not working, or the water inlet valve having failed or not getting voltage, or the unit just not getting any water, will the diagnostics show that? I appreciate your help.
 

rickgburton

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Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Not directly. Error codes are two digits the first is the function code and second is the problem code. You'll find these codes on your tech sheet behind the lower panel.
 

Mharnisch

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Perrysburg Ohio
I thought that might be the case. I just have to find the tech sheet that I put in my filing cabinet. However, can you answer this question? Does the float control the water level in the unit or is it just a safety device in case the level gets too high? Thanks.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Most units are timed fill. Yours is 1:16 the first fill for wash and 1:06 fill time for the rinse.
 

Mharnisch

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Perrysburg Ohio
Just want to update all on my situation. I decided to replace the float switch since I couldn’t get either the old inlet valve or the new inlet valve to fill the unit with water. I knew the old valve had been working but wasn’t sure the new one might be bad. Chances are both valves being bad was probably a long shot. So my next guess would be the float switch. The unit now fills with water and has been run several times with no leaks either. The only thing I can’t be sure about is why did it leak. Was it the float switch being bad or the inlet valve sticking open, or something else. I have the old valve currently installed and will just have to watch it. If it starts to leak again, i’ll Install the new valve. Thanks everyone for you help.
 
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