FIXED WDF750SAYB0 Whirlpool Gold Series Dishwasher - Circulator Pump not working

[Hamdog]

Model Number

WDF750SAYB0

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

6-10 years

The dishwasher is a 2014 Whirlpool Gold Series WDF750SAYB0. So lets start off that the dishwasher not only leaked water into our basement not once but two times due to my wife ignoring the water on the floor and running another load. After I noticed the water in the basement one evening, the dishwasher Start/Resume button and washing light were blinking continuously. I pulled out the dishwasher and found a large tear in the rubber elbow connecting from dishwasher to circulator discharge. $50 dollars later got a new elbow and replaced the old elbow. Put it back together and went to start another load and the following is what happened:

• The fill valve opens and fills tub
• Once it gets to fill point, relay for circulator pump clicks and you hear a noise coming from the circulator pump but not running. This goes through a couple tries and then stops and the Start/Resume light and washing light start flashing.
• I can hit drain and it drains fine.
• I tried killing power and resetting panel, same outcome.
• I pulled out circulator pump and put 120V to it, and it works great. I pulled motor all apart, cleaned out some wax, scale and hair. There was not wear or scratches on magnet, it spun freely. Put pump back together and put 120V to it and it worked no problem with zero noises.
• Put pump back in and ran a cycle same thing as above with the same flashing lights.
• So I pulled control board out and check the power coming from control panel. I unplugged the circulator pump and started a cycle, I get 120V coming from relay to pump.
• I checked door switch it works as it should, and when closed reads zero ohms.
• I check the wires to the pump and look to be good. I could check continuity.
• So all the troubleshooting points to bad pump?
• Order new pump and verify its the correct one, install new pump. and get the same issues as above.

So now I'm $200 into this (can return the pump hopefully so only $70 into this) and I don't know which direction to go. I cannot find anything explaining error codes for this series dishwasher and what the flashing start/resume light and washing light mean. Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

 

[Hamdog]

I forgot to mention that the soap dispenser door does not open either. Thank you!

 

[Jake]

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

Look on page 2. Now I found two instances about the Start/Resume Key Blinking.

--->Won’t Run and LED for Start/Resume Key is Blinking Slowly
--->Won’t Start and Start/Resume key LED Flashes 3 Times When Start/Resume Key is Pressed

Then for the Clean LED blinking:
--->Can Start a Cycle, but Only Runs for a Short Time - Cycle Does Not Complete (Clean LED or Completed May Blink)
That refers to a wash motor problem.

Now you said you replaced the pump, what is the part number of the pump you replaced?

We have been having quite a bit of these wash motors failing as of late, I always use my multimeter and set it on AC volts and remove the electrical connector to the wash motor and put the multimeter probes in it, if you have 120 volts at the wash motor electrical connector and the wash motor will not run, when it should be running, then its bad.

Look at post #7 here: FIXED 665.13472N411 What to check on why it only washes about 5% of the cycle.


Here's the wash(circulation) motor for your model:
Circulation Pump WPW10510667


Jake

 

[Hamdog]

Thanks Jake for the service manual.

The new and old pump model number is WPW10510667 as you listed. I installed the new pump and the same issues occur.

The lights that flash are the start/resume light and the washing light. The two lights flash together. I can't find this as an error in the troubleshooting guide.

I did check to make sure that I was getting 120volts from relay at the control board. My leads on volt meter are to larger to slide into the wire connect at pump so connected them directly to the control board.

I'm thinking since both pumps (new/old) didn't fix the problem, is there another common error that could be the culprit? Thanks for the help!

 

[Jake]

For the meter probes being to large, Rick posted a solution to that, use this safety pin trick.

Once it gets to fill point, relay for circulator pump clicks and you hear a noise coming from the circulator pump but not running. This goes through a couple tries and then stops and the Start/Resume light and washing light start flashing.

So if the wash motor does not run after it fills, then it sounds like either a bad wash motor or bad control board.

After it fills remove the electrical connector from the wash motor, then insert the safety pins from the meter probes into that electrical connector and start the dishwasher and see if the meter reads 120 volts, if so, plain and simple you have a bad wash motor, if you just replaced it, then that one is bad as well.

I've replaced many of these wash motors and everyone single one fixed them, I only buy OEM parts at AppliancePartsPros and RepairClinic, for my local customer repairs.

Jake

 

[the.dish.king]

I have a question for you, Jake. When you replace this wash motor, do you need to get new pinch clamps? I noticed that the groove in the hose is too narrow for a normal 1/2" hose clamp to fit onto. I refurbish dishwashers and I have a few of these Whirlpools where I need to take a motor off of one and put it onto another, but no clamp to tighten it up.

 

[Jake]

I have a question for you, Jake. When you replace this wash motor, do you need to get new pinch clamps?

I don't use pinch clamps, I use the good old fashioned radiator clamps, that I get at the hardware store.

Jake

 

[Hamdog]

Jake,

I just ran another test with new wash motor. Still no good. I pull the leads off motor and hooked my voltmeter to them, I get 120volts when the relay clicks. So must be bad pump. I bought this new from Repair Clinic as an mfg OEM motor. The mfg box the motor came in was open, so I’m guessing it was a return for good reason.

the one thing I was hoping you could answer is why does the old motor still run when I connect 120v direct to motor from wall outlet.

thanks for all the help and the wealth of knowledge and assistance you provide to the forum!

 

[Jake]

the one thing I was hoping you could answer is why does the old motor still run when I connect 120v direct to motor from wall outlet.

That I don't know.

I pull the leads off motor and hooked my voltmeter to them, I get 120volts when the relay clicks. So must be bad pump. I bought this new from Repair Clinic as an mfg OEM motor. The mfg box the motor came in was open, so I’m guessing it was a return for good reason.

Yes contact RepairClinic and they will send you another wash motor for free.

Jake

 

[Hamdog]

Thanks Jake. They have a new one coming I will post the final results with the second new pump. Thanks for the help!!!

 

[Jake]

Sounds good Hamdog, yes keep us posted.

Jake

 

[Hamdog]

Well bad news. I installed the new pump that came in this morning. Made sure everything was connected correctly. Cycled power at breaker to reset control board. Started wash on normal wash mode. The machine drains, then starts filling and 26 seconds into the fill cycle it trips off with the washing light and start/resume light flashing. Open up the dishwasher and there is water in it, but not to the float yet.

So now the machine doesn't fill all the way or get to the point in the cycle where it starts the wash pump. It looks like the fill cycle is a 1min long. I wonder if the latch is now the problem? It seems to make a click noise when closing, I could test the switch. What are your thoughts. at this point I would just buy a new dishwasher, but they are 3-4months out and my wife wants to renovate and upgrade the kitchen in the near future.

I hate to spend money now to only find out it doesn't match what she wants in the future for finish. Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Jake]

That's very odd, I would of mentioned the door switch, but you already checked that.

I checked door switch it works as it should, and when closed reads zero ohms.

So, it seems you have multiple problems going on here, I would need to come to your house to see what's going on. So since I'm too far away, its best to have a tech come out or buy a new dishwasher.

Jake

 

[Hamdog]

So final update. Tore apart door panel again. Took apart door latch switch and tested continuity. Switch is good out back together. Reset power and now it’s running a full cycle with no issues. So as of now it’s running and if it doesn’t continue I would say the control board is bad as well. Let’s keep fingers crossed and hope it keeps working. Thanks again Jake for all the help, again your a great resource to this forum.

 

[Jake]

Excellent, that's great news.

Yes, fingers crossed.

Jake