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WDF750SAYW0 Whirlpool Dishwasher not washing dishes.

cixelsd

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
4
Location
Brentwood, CA
Model Number
WDF750SAYW0
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Dishwasher not washing dishes. There was no water in the tub, so I replaced the water inlet valve. That solved that issue, but the dishes were not getting wet. I did not hear anything from the circulation pump, so I assumed that it burnt out from the lack water and replace it with a new pump. I now hear water flowing from the pump; however, the dishes still are not getting washed. I do not hear any water sloshing in the tub. The drain pump is functioning. I checked all the spray arms; they are clog free. The debris baskets are free of any debris. Water flows freely through the feed tubes. There were not any obstructions in the diverter. I am now out of ideas. Please help me before I replace every part in this dishwasher one at a time.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
43,623
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Do you hear the circulation motor running? Is this the motor you replaced?
whirlpool-mp-sngl-phase-wpw10510667-ap6022492_01_m.jpg
 

cixelsd

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
4
Location
Brentwood, CA
Yes to both. I hear the water inlet valve let water in. Then after a few moments I hear the circulation pump kick in and I hear water moving, but I do not hear any water moving in the tub. The detergent pouch falls into the tub, but barley gets dissolved, I am guessing that is because it is just sitting in water that is not moving. I have tried a sensor wash, a normal wash and a one-hour wash all with the same results. Every time the cycle ends, I am met with a face full of steam, so I believe the heating element is working fine, and a partially dissolved detergent pack laughing at me from the lower left corner of the tub. I have put upright bowls in the top and bottom rack to see how much water is collected and both contain less that a quarter inch of what I assume is just condensation of the steam. I am picking up a multimeter today to hopefully test the circulation pump is getting the correct voltage. I also hope to test the diverter, but I am not sure how to just yet.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
43,623
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Go into service diagnostics mode and check for error codes.

Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

Last run cycles and options returned to default (Normal cycle with Heated Dry option). Last run delay returns to the lowest delay increment.

Calibration cycle may force an extra rinse to occur prior to Final Rinse (to assure clear water), then calibrates the OWI and the fill amount during the final rinse.

Operating state returns to Standby upon completing or terminating the Service Diagnostics Cycle.

Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses.
NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”

Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes and has 25 intervals.

The diagnostic cycle starts with interval 25 and ends on interval 1.

Interval 25 turns on all the LED’s as a display test.

Intervals 24 – 23 – 22 and 21 are for error codes. The Clean (or Completed) LED will flash the error codes in two parts. The Clean LED will first flash the function code, pause for 2 seconds then flash the problem code, pause for 5 seconds then repeat three times (unless advanced by the Start key to the next interval).

If there are no error codes the Clean LED will stay on solid for 5 seconds.

Interval 20 is a 10 second pause. *The Hi-Temp LED will be on. Press the Hi-Temp key to clear the error codes. The Hi- Temp LED will blink twice to indicate the errors have been cleared.

Intervals 19 – 3 is the service diagnostic cycle.

Interval 14 the diverter will be on continuously. In all other diverter intervals, diverter will only be on until it reaches the intended position for that interval

Intervals 2 and 1 are for error codes found during the diagnostic cycle.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
43,623
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
9-1: Was the diverter on in interval 14? Check operation of diverter motor during diagnostics. Inspect diverter shaft with mirror. If motor appears to be on (vibrates, hums), but you see limited rotation, then replace diverter and seal.
In all other diverter intervals, diverter will only be on until it reaches the intended position
Intervals 19 -14 -13- 11 -10 are diverter intervals. Possible cause, faulty Diverter Motor Drive Circuit on the control.

6-4: Float switch open. If it shows closed it's most likely the fill valve Triac on control shorted

6-6: Not important (Incoming water not hot enough).

10-1: Dispenser electrical problem. Yours is working so it's most likely a faulty dispenser drive circuit on the control.

The common denominator for all those errors is the control board. If the diverter checks good, here's the part you need:
whirlpool-cntrl-elec-w10479764-ap5617599_01_m.jpg
 
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