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WDF760SADM2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - error codes documentation

Jaiksh

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Los Angeles
Model Number
WDF760SADM2
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
I have F7 E1, F8 E2, F5 E1, F6 E4 codes on dishwasher, but can't find documentation on these. Can someone share? Dishwasher enters diagnostics but gets stuck after filling the water. No debris inside, and heating element, inflow, drain seem to be working fine.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

I'm attaching your tech data sheet below.

When you click on it, It will download, then you can open it with a .pdf reader.

Jake
 

Attachments

  • Tech Sheet - W10751166 - Rev C.pdf
    2.2 MB · Views: 447

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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If the wash motor is not coming on after it fills, then it's most likely a bad wash motor, this has become a common problem as of late, many members here have reported the same. In fact I had 2 in Sept. 2018 in Parker, Arizona that did the exact same thing, and the new wash motor fixed them both.:)

Look at post #7 here:

I'd first check to see if your getting 120 volts to the wash motor when it should be in the wash cycle. His Kenmore 665 is made by Whirlpool, and uses the exact same wash motor yours does.

Take the wire connector off the wash motor and use your multimeter to see if yours is getting 120 volts when it should be washing, if so and it's not running order the wash motor below.

Here is the wash motor assembly you can order:
W11032770 Motor-Pump


Here's the video to replace it:

Jake
 

Jaiksh

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Los Angeles
Thanks a lot for sharing the datasheet, Jake.

Somehow the dishwasher is working again. I cut the power, removed bottom rack, ran diagnostics & still see same error codes I reported earlier (see below) as soon as the diagnostics cycle begins.
  • F7 E1: Heating
  • F8 E2: Drain motor
  • F5 E1: Door switch
  • F6 E4: Float switch
However, diagnostics cycle completes normally & I see F- E- (meaning, no error) at end of the cycle. Inside is clean, heating works, detergent dispenser opens, pod dissolves etc.

Several wheels on bottom rack of the dishwasher have come off due to heat. Could the issue be similar to what NAndreotti shared in Post#11 at FIXED - WDF760SADM0 Error Codes F7 E1 ?

"I had the exact thing just happen and I have a theory let me know what you guys think. Improperly or overloaded bottom rack causes something to sit on the heating element the metal object absorbs some of the heat away from the water, water doesnt reach proper temp board see this and cuts power to element thinking there is a short or some sort of issue. This is my working theory because they literally tried a load twice last night both times water would not get hot enough to melt the pod. I get there today and they have emptied out the dishwasher I enter diagnostic see the F7E1. I start test cycle everything works normal."

I am yet to test normal wash cycle. Let me run few times tomorrow and confirm if the normalcy is consistent.
 
Last edited:

Jake

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Clear the error codes and start a new cycle without dishes in it, and see if the wash motor runs after it fills.

Jake
 

Jaiksh

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Messages
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Location
Los Angeles
It ran several diag tests and full wash cycles without issue for past few days but showed F7 E1 and F8 E2 again today. I did not hear wash cycle, detergent pac was dispensed, but lied on floor almost intact at end of the full cycle.
  • F7 E1: Heating
  • F8 E2: Drain motor
 

Jake

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I did not hear wash cycle
Ok, your wash motor is likely bad, to verify that do what I mentioned in post #3.:)

Jake
 

Jaiksh

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Messages
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Location
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Thanks Jake for feedback. I just got my multimeter and am ready to test the motor. Should I probe input of diverter motor or wash pump motor? These probes are difficult to access, so I guess I'd need to pull the dishwasher out and connect it fully in order to run the test? Given that the probes will be easier to test when dishwasher is tilted sideways, can I not avoid connecting water inlet and jump through intervals to wash interval directly?
 

Jake

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Yes, pull the dishwasher out, then remove the electrical connector to the wash motor and put your meter probes in that electrical connector.

If your meter probes are too big use this safety pin trick:

safety pin 500x250.jpg


Jake
 

Jaiksh

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Location
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Thanks Jake, that did it. You're a life saver! Diverter motor seal is loose now and a bit leaky around shaft. Do you recommend a replacement part or alternate fix? I hope shaft itself isn't worn out.
 

Jake

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Did you get 120 volts at the wash motor electrical connectors?

If so, and your diverter seal is leaking, then it would be better to buy the whole sump motor assembly which includes a new wash motor, new diverter, new diverter seal already installed for you. Buying all those parts separately would cost more than a new dishwasher.

You can get the sump/pump motor assembly here:
Pump and Motor Assembly WPW10671942


Jake
 

Jaiksh

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Messages
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Location
Los Angeles
Wash motor fixed original issue. Just need to fix the leak now. Hope I can replace the diverter shaft seal. It's a small rubber gasket.
 

Jake

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Ok, you can't buy just the diverter seal separately. You'd need to order the sump assembly, it comes with the seal already installed in it for you.

Here's the sump assembly for your model you can order:
WPW10455268 Sump


There is a video in the part link that shows you how to replace the sump assembly.

Jake
 
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