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WDT720PADM0 Whirlpool dishwasher dry cycle not working.

MJPJNJ

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2016
Messages
8
Location
NJ
Model Number
WDT720PADM0
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
My Whirlpool WDT720PADM0 won't dry. I checked the continuity of the heating element and the high temperature cut off switch. Both check good. It didn't come with a Tech Data Sheet. Does anyone know where to get a sheet. I would like to run the diagnostic mode but don't know the sequence of buttons to push to enter the mode. Any suggestions?
 

rickgburton

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I think this is the same as yours.

To invoke the Diagnostics Cycle, perform the following while in standby:

■ Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2-3- 1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between keys.

■ The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

■ To rapid advance 1 interval at a time, press the Start/Resume key. Rapid advancing may skip sensor checks as some checks require 2 complete intervals.
NOTE: While in the Diagnostic Cycle, the Start/ Resume feature is turned off (for example, Auto Resume after door interrupts) and the Start/Resume key becomes an interval advance key.

■ Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

■ Last run cycles and options returned to default (Normal cycle with Heated Dry option).

■ Last run delay returns to the lowest delay increment.

■ Calibration cycle may force an extra rinse to occur prior to Final Rinse (to assure clear water), then calibrates the OWI and the fill amount during the final rinse.

■ Operating state returns to Standby upon completing or terminating the Service Diagnostics Cycle

WDT710.jpg
 

MJPJNJ

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Messages
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Location
NJ
Thanks for taking the time to answer. I will try it and post the results. Thanks again!
 

MJPJNJ

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My initial quick assumption was way wrong. Heating element is fine. The bottom spray arm is not moving during the wash cycle, top one is moving fine. During diagnostic mode I am getting multiple error codes. F5 E1, F6 E6, F7 E1, F8 E2
 

rickgburton

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That's a lot of error codes. I believe you can safely ignore the first two for now. F5E1 is the machine thinks the door is open and F6E6 is the water is too cold. Now, what you need to do is, first run the hot water in the sink for a minute then start a regular/normal wash cycle and see what the machine does and if it completes a cycle. If it doesn't finish the cycle what does the machine do. If it completes a normal wash cycle run the service test mode again and check for errors again.
 

MJPJNJ

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Location
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Rick, It does finish a cycle, I did notice the spray arms aren't spinning. I'm figuring it's the pump or diverter valve. I plan on starting there tomorrow. Thanks for your reply.
 

MJPJNJ

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Ran the normal cycle, it ran all the way through but the arms didn't appear to be spinning, and dishes weren't clean. Then ran the diagonostic mode. It threw the same four codes, ran through the cycle with arms inning this time. I'm ready to put it on the curb.
 

rickgburton

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You may just need to take it apart and clean it out. Check if something got caught in the wash impeller or in the sump. Check the holes in the spray arms are not blocked, especially the holes on the ends of the spray arms.
 

MJPJNJ

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I took apart the diverter valve and it looked brand new. Nothing clogging it. All the teeth were on the gears. Did a continuity check on it and it failed. Not sure if that type of small motor is continuous. I'll pull apart the wash motor next. Thanks for the tips, you're keeping me from wheeling it out to the curb!
 

rickgburton

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I'm running out of things to check. It's like your machine fell into a rabbit hole and nothing is making much sense. Here's where I'm at- I'll start with the 4 error codes. F5-E1 machine thinks the door is open. When you started a normal cycle the machine started so machine knows the door is closed. F6E6 the machine thinks the water is too cold. You checked it and it was hot. F7E1 is heating circuit not working or open component in the circuit. You checked that also and it checked good. F8E2 is drain motor electrical problem. The machine drains the water at the end of the cycle so all 4 error codes are superfluous.

When you run the diagnostic cycle it resets the machine and recalibrates the OWI. It also clears all error codes yet when you run the test cycle again all four error codes are still there.

The machine spray arms were turning on the last check so that would indicate the motor is working. Can you hear the motor running during the wash cycle? If you can, it's getting 120 VAC. If the motor is running but the spray arms are not turning there's a blockage somewhere or a cracked impeller in the wash pump. Check the drain check valve also.

You said the diverter valve motor failed continuity check. Your meter probably wasn't on the correct ohms scale. The valve motor should measure 1.3K to 1.6K ohms. (That's 1,300 ohms to 1,600 ohms).

The only thing left is the OWI thermistor. Measure the resistance at the control board between P12-1 and P12-3. At room temperature (77*F) the thermistor should measure 48K to 52K ohms (48,000 ohms to 52,000 ohms) At 140*F the thermistor should measure 11K to 13K ohms.

Did you use the chart to check the status of each interval in test mode? If so and everything checked good I'm out of ideas, sorry.
 

MJPJNJ

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I'm sure the setting probably was wrong on the multimeter. I am not the best at using it. i will recheck that. I can definitely hear the pump running during the wash cycle. I will pull it apart to rule out any obstructions, cracked impeller etc. but it sounds fine. I'm not going to replace stuff just to replace it. I'll just pick up a new one. Any recommendations as to a good reliable dishwasher? I got 11 years out of my Kitchen Aid. Bought this Whirlpool 15 months ago, you know the rest. Thanks again for your time.
 

rickgburton

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Kitchenaid (originally Hobart) was purchased by Whirlpool in the early 80's and eventually became Whirlpool's high end appliances. In the 90's Whirlpool purchased Maytag Corp. The dishwasher you have now is not a bad machine. In fact I often recommend Whirlpool appliances. 15 months is not that long. It's not long enough for anything to wear out. Electronic controls are still in their infancy and they can have issues occasionally.

Appliances are machines and like any machine they break down. You're suffering from information overload. It's a problem I see often on this site. Some members are using hand tools and test equipment for the first time. Replacing parts in hopes one will fix it is NOT the way to go. That way will get very expensive, very fast. Most folks can't read or understand a wiring schematic or techs sheets. That's what I try to do for you. Basicly, I become a talking wiring diagram and tech sheet. So far you haven't been able to find the problem because it's not an obvious problem but you're not out anything yet, just your time. I know this can be extremely frustrating sometimes. You're here because you want to save money and be able to fix your own appliances and not be at the mercy of some service company. If you quit now the dishwasher wins and you lose and you're out a machine that is not a year and half old yet. But that's your call. If you keep going think of it as job training for the next appliance that breaks down.

You didn't answer my question from post #10, Did you run the test cycle using the chart I posted? Did you clear the error codes in test cycle (Note #3)? Did you check the status indicators in the test cycle (All Notes)? At what interval do the error codes show up?

Now, keep this in mind, it's extremely rare for two or more parts to break at exactly the same time. If the motor is running during the wash cycle and the spray arms are not turning, then unless the impeller is broken the problem is not electrical or mechanical. Let's call this problem one. Why did this problem (spray arms not turning) make you think the dishwasher is not drying the dishes (your first post)? Those two issues are not even remotely connected. How do you know the spray arms are not turning?
 

DblDogDare

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Oct 15, 2018
Messages
1
Location
Castroville, TX
Rick, I know this is an older post but having a similar issue... Will this diagnostic cycle work for the WDT720PADM2 model? Since day 1 this dishwasher has not dried properly. Early on, the technician stated we had to run the water until it got hot prior to running the dishwasher. That seems a bit silly to waste that much water every time I want to run my dishwasher... I've never had to do this with any other dishwasher before. I have despised this dishwasher every day for the last two years that we have owned it... Hoping you can restore my faith!!
 

rickgburton

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Yes, the same one will work for yours. Are you using the rinse agent? Dishes won't dry without it.
 

sinco

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Nov 14, 2018
Messages
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Location
GA
code 7-1

Yes, the same one will work for yours. Are you using the rinse agent? Dishes won't dry without it.
Hi Rick

Our Whirlpool dishwasher stopped working right about a week ago - truth is, it never has washed well. Husband took it apart - can't remember exactly, but the the wheel thing on the pump didn't appear to be seated well and wasn't spinning correctly. Put it back together and dishes washed better than ever. Only problem now is that they aren't drying - yes, we use rinse-aid and do not overload. Prior to this incident, dishes were drying good.
Ran diagnostics and got code 7-1
The heater element and high-limit thermostat both tested for continuity. We have a fairly new hot water heater (less than a year) and haven't had a problem with it.

I know with another dishwasher we had, this problem was the element - seems weird that it just started when we were working on it (power was disconnected).

Anything else to test, or could it still be element?

Thanks
 

sinco

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GA
Same as last time heating element went out?

No - different model
 

rickgburton

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