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FIXED WDT720PADM2 Whirlpool Dishwasher refuses to go into diagnostic mode, not spraying water

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mscaz

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2022
Messages
7
Location
USA
Model Number
WDT720PADM2
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Hi; My dishwasher isn’t spraying water and I want to check for any error codes but can’t get it to start diagnostics. Water is coming in at the start, gets hot/steamy, but no spraying activities take place as the cycles progress. The machine just thinks I’m trying to start a cycle. I’ve tried every combination of pressing any button three times in a 123-123-123 pattern, I’ve watched this pattern being pressed on YouTube, the manual behind the kick plate describes doing this. I’ve flipped the dishwasher breaker off to depower the system for 5min.. But no luck. Any ideas? I’m guessing it’s probably a pump/motor assembly. We had a very low cold water supply issue to the kitchen sink area (clogged filter, now remedied.. a replacement fixed the water pressure issue at the faucets but didn’t fix the dishwasher lack of spraying) that I thought maybe affected the pump. Thanks in advance for any ideas how to engage diagnostics mode.
 

mscaz

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Location
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Yes, water comes in hot, then it’s all quiet. Ok, I reckon I’ll just go for it and get assembly WPW10671941 in that case. Was just a bit hesitant since I couldn’t get a diagnostic code to confirm the issue.

Wait.. even if I drop in the new part. don’t I need to execute the mode, to get it to calibrate etc.?
 

dashriprok

Appliance Tech
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Jun 3, 2018
Messages
149
Location
Michigan
Once dishwasher gets to the point where the main wash motor should turn on, check for 120 Volts going to the motor. That'll determine whether main motor is bad or electronic control board is bad. I replace lots of motors and electronic controls on Whirlpool built dishwashers.

As a service tech I often check the main wash motor by connecting a test cord to it. A test cord FYI has a male plug on one end and alligator clips in place of a normal female end.
 

mscaz

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Location
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Thanks, I appreciate that approach. To confirm my understanding: I could “plug” in the wash motor to a wall outlet to make sure it comes on (bypassing electronics control board). I suppose an extension of this is “testing” the replacement part before dropping it in isn’t a bad idea.

I was planning to remove the round assembly piece without putting the machine on its side, will that work, can you confirm my strategy is correct: I plan to (1) remove the round assembly from floor of washer, (2) disconnect the wash motor and test it can work (using a test lead plugged into wall). (3) Verify 120V is being supplied during wash cycle being engaged.

If it’s an electronics control board, which part no is it, and could is it feasible to replace that myself?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Location
Redmond, Oregon
Yes, Usually the wash motor(aka circulation motor) that is the culprit.

To verify that, you can use a DMM(Digital Multimeter) to confirm 120 Volts AC at the wash motor when it should be running. This a common problem with this model.

(click to enlarge)
dishwash120volts.jpg

Here's the wash(circulation) motor for your model:
Pump and Motor Assembly W11032770


Its actually less expensive to get the complete sump/wash motor assembly, and the diverter comes with it too:
WPW10671941 PUMP&MOTOR


If it’s an electronics control board, which part no is it, and could is it feasible to replace that myself?
This control board is for your model:

Jake
 

mscaz

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Messages
7
Location
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Thanks Jake. What about my issue about not being able to execute diagnostic mode- I thought I read in another post it will still be needed (whenever any new part is put in) in order to execute calibration process?
 

Jake

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Do, this first--->Run the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE, and let it run all the way through to reset it back to default.

Entry sequence: Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”
The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

--->Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

LET IT RUN ALL THE WAY THROUGH: Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes.

Do that and see if that resolves the problem.

Jake
 

mscaz

Premium Member
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Aug 21, 2022
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7
Location
USA
Thanks Jake.. hence my original issue (see the post). I’ve got the instructions out the base plate, but pressing any button in a 123, 123, 123 pattern ends up on a cycle, it won’t go into service mode. I’ve also tried resetting the power.
 

Jake

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mscaz

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Aug 21, 2022
Messages
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Location
USA
I'm having trouble getting the sump seal reseated properly so I can turn the three retainers that secure the sump and seal in place. Having a super frustrating time!

I tried putting plenty of dishsoap on the gasket seal before dropping it in.. best I can get is 2 out of 3 retainers in place (but then the sump is a bit too catawampus to do the third on).

Any suggestions, anyone?
 

Jake

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Just keep at it, you will get it, see if you can have a helper push down on the sump assembly when you lock those retainers in place.

Watch this video:

Jake
 

ninagelo591

Premium Member
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Sep 17, 2022
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5
Location
27701
Hello - So glad I found this thread! I am having a similar problem with my Whirlpool dishwasher WDT720PADM2. The cycle starts and basin fills, water heats and the drain is fine, but it never goes through the wash cycle and the arms do not move or spray water. I assume it's the circulation pump or impeller but wanted to run a diagnostic test to confirm before buying parts or scheduling a repair.

The diagnostic test revealed the codes E1 and F7 at the start of the test, and at the end of the 23 minutes, the machine just turns off with no further indications on the LCD. Is this the correct process for the diagnostic test, and do these E1 and F7 codes support a faulty circulation pump? From what I gathered online, it seems like these codes point to a faulty heating element.

Any idea what's going on here? Oh, I should also mention that I have a leak in my garbage disposal which I will be replacing in the next day or two. I don't think that should matter, but thought I should mention it just in case.
 

Jake

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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
134,257
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Hello - So glad I found this thread! I am having a similar problem with my Whirlpool dishwasher WDT720PADM2. The cycle starts and basin fills, water heats and the drain is fine, but it never goes through the wash cycle and the arms do not move or spray water. I assume it's the circulation pump or impeller but wanted to run a diagnostic test to confirm before buying parts or scheduling a repair.

The diagnostic test revealed the codes E1 and F7 at the start of the test, and at the end of the 23 minutes, the machine just turns off with no further indications on the LCD. Is this the correct process for the diagnostic test, and do these E1 and F7 codes support a faulty circulation pump? From what I gathered online, it seems like these codes point to a faulty heating element.

Any idea what's going on here? Oh, I should also mention that I have a leak in my garbage disposal which I will be replacing in the next day or two. I don't think that should matter, but thought I should mention it just in case.
Check for 120 volts at the wash motor electrical connector when that wash motor should be running AFTER it fills.

Read this post:

Jake
 

mscaz

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Aug 21, 2022
Messages
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Location
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Hey Jake, thanks for the encouragement!! Was about to give up since I spent half a day Friday on it.. After I explained where I was stuck, hubby had the idea he could lean with all his weight on a broom handle while I lay on the ground to fasten the retainers. It totally worked! Everything is running as expected now with the new motor.
 

ninagelo591

Premium Member
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Sep 17, 2022
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Location
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Check for 120 volts at the wash motor electrical connector when that wash motor should be running AFTER it fills.

Read this post:

Jake
Hello Jake - Thanks for your reply. Do you have a video showing how to check for 120 volts? If not, I am inclined to just purchase the entire entire assembly WPW10671941 PUMP&MOTOR and see if that resolves the issue. But given the part is a bit expensive, it would be great to know with more certainty if that is the likely culprit.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
134,257
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Redmond, Oregon
Hey Jake, thanks for the encouragement!! Was about to give up since I spent half a day Friday on it.. After I explained where I was stuck, hubby had the idea he could lean with all his weight on a broom handle while I lay on the ground to fasten the retainers. It totally worked! Everything is running as expected now with the new motor.
Excellent, good job.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
134,257
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Hello Jake - Thanks for your reply. Do you have a video showing how to check for 120 volts? If not, I am inclined to just purchase the entire entire assembly WPW10671941 PUMP&MOTOR and see if that resolves the issue. But given the part is a bit expensive, it would be great to know with more certainty if that is the likely culprit.
No video, but this photo below shows you. You may have to pull the dishwasher out a little bit to get access to that wash motor electrical connector. Make sure you have enough slack in the water supply line and electrical connector that comes in to the main of your dishwasher.

dishwash120volts.jpg
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Redmond, Oregon
Ok, sounds good.

Jake
 
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