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WDT780SAEM1 Whirlpool dishwasher starts a cycle, fills and then stops.

iphands

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Asheville NC
Model Number
WDT780SAEM1
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Hi all,

I have a WDT780SAEM1 and I am struggling to diagnose issues with it.
The dishwasher starts a cycle, fills and then stops. It can certainly drain fine. I can press the drain button and voila empty.

I have found tons of docs on starting the diagnostics cycle, but none seem to tell you how to read the codes after a diag cycle.
I 123 123 123 close the door, hear things going on... then hear a beep.
Opening the door shows no codes.
Re running the 123 123 123 combo to get back in diag mode just shows the 8:88 and all LEDs lit.

It started doing this on xmas :( and I ran the diag mode a few times, then it suddenly stopped.
4 days later and Im stuck with it not washing again, but it can drain just fine.

I have no clue how to diag further. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
40,635
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
From standby mode,
Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses.
NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”

Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes and has 26 intervals.

The diagnostic cycle starts on interval 26 and ends on interval 1.

Interval 26 turns on all the LED’s as a display test even if the door is open. The Diagnostic cycle starts when the door is closed.

Intervals 25 – 24 – 23 and 22 are for error codes, newest to oldest. The Clean (or Completed) LED will flash the error codes in two parts. The Clean LED will first flash the function code, pause for 2 seconds then flash the problem code, pause for 5 seconds then repeat three times.

If there are no error codes the Clean LED will stay on solid for 5 seconds. On display models it will show F#- E#-

Interval 21
is a 10 second pause. Press the Hi-Temp key to clear all error codes. The Hi- Temp LED will blink twice to indicate the errors have been cleared.

Intervals 20 – 3 is the service diagnostic test

Intervals 2 – 1 are for error codes found during the diagnostic cycle.

Post the error codes here.
 

iphands

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Asheville NC
No wait...

What do I do if in the middle of the test about 15 minutes in I hear a beep.
Then the leds turn off (panel and front led) and there are no codes displayed?

This happens a out 15 mins in.
Beep, no leds lit, no further sounds, no error codes to read/post?
 

iphands

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Asheville NC
> No error codes at the beginning of the diagnostic cycle??

No just checked again. Its rather frustrating.
The problem is intermittent, but just occurred.
I rand the diag cycle and watched the first few intervals.
I saw nothing but F - and E -

I let the diag cycle run, about 15 mins in I hear a long beep and the cycle seems to be over.
No lights, beeps, solenoid clicks.

I restarted the diag cycle, and watched the first few intervals.
I saw nothing but F - and E -

Any thoughts?

Starting a regular wash cycle now to see what happens.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
115,867
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
It's possibly a bad wash(circulation) motor, because the wash motor should be running after it fills. This has become a common problem as of late, many members here have reported the same. In fact I had 2 this past Sept. 2018 in Parker, Arizona that did the exact same thing, and the new wash motor fixed them both.:)

Look at post #7 here: FIXED 665.13472N411 What to check on why it only washes about 5% of the cycle.

I'd first check to see if your getting 120 volts to the wash motor when it should be in the wash cycle. His Kenmore 665 made by Whirlpool, and uses the exact same wash motor yours does.

Take the wire connector off the wash motor and use a multimeter to see if yours is getting 120 volts when it should be washing, if so and it's not running then your wash motor is the culprit.

On this model it's actually less expensive to get the complete wash motor sump assembly, than the wash motor alone.:)

Here it is for your model you can order:
Pump and Motor Assembly WPW10605057


Here's the video to replace it:

Make sure you turn the breaker OFF to your dishwasher before you begin.:)

Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

iphands

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Asheville NC
So the machine finally started throwing codes! Yay :D
The codes I see are:
F6 E4
F5 E1

Are these consistent with that pump failing?

Its hard to test the pump because of the lack of line... Im working without a lot of slack here.
Thoughts?
 

iphands

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Asheville NC
Oh also... funnily enough its been working again for a weeks and then suddenly its failing again.
Is this symptom also consistent with a failing motor??
Could it just be frozen? Locked? Should I whack it with a hammer? :D

Oh also water still fills and drains juuust fine. If that aids in a diagnosis at all.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
115,867
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, a bad wash motor can be intermittent like this.

So if it keeps happening I'd replace the wash motor sump assembly.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
115,867
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Anytime.(y)

Jake
 
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