• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

WED9400SU0 will not power on. Tested areas with DMM, replaced two different boards. Help!

Mason b

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2022
Messages
7
Location
North Carolina
Model Number
WED9400SU0
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
More than 10 years
Hello, sorry for this being long, just want to be thorough.

I’m having trouble diagnosing my whirlpool duet dryer (not the ht or sport model). As a side note, I also have a whirlpool duet ht washer. I am not sure on the exact age of these units because they came with my home when I purchased it last year.

A month ago while I was out of town, we had a power outage (this may or may not be relevant). Everything in the house including the washer and dryer worked fine after the outage, but within two weeks, the dryer stopped working. No power when pressing the power button. The interior drum light still lights up when opening the door, and the relay on the main control board still clicks when the door switch is activated. I unplugged the dryer after I switched off the breaker, then plugged back in, and nothing changed.

Stupidly, I just quick-read some forums and found that the issue is most likely the main control board, so I ordered one. When it arrived, I installed it, and the dryer still will not power on, but it was acting exactly the same as when the original board was installed.

Then I took out the DMM. I tested the 4-prong wall outlet and got 240v, then removed the small back panel that reveals the power cable connecting to the dryer, tested there and got 120v on each side so seems normal.

I’m not a pro with wiring or using a dmm but I placed the positive lead of my dmm on all pins and connectors of the main control board and front panel board, and I can read at least some voltage, and all voltage readings were the same for the pins on the front panel board except for one that had half the voltage as the others.

I suspected the actual power switch on the front panel board was failing, so I ordered a used one, installed it, and I still have no power when pressing the power button.

I am beyond frustrated with this dryer now and need some serious help, as I feel I have the skill to be able to fix this on my own instead of hiring a repairman or buying a new dryer.

Any help is appreciated!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    453.5 KB · Views: 27

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,583
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Then I took out the DMM. I tested the 4-prong wall outlet and got 240v, then removed the small back panel that reveals the power cable connecting to the dryer, tested there and got 120v on each side so seems normal.
Put your multimeter leads on both ends(OUTER TERMINALS) of the dryer terminal block(where your power cord connects to it), it should read 240 volts.

Remember Black & Red on the ends are HOT, White in the middle is NEUTRAL.

If you get 240 volts on both ends of the dryer terminal block, then let's test for Ghost Voltage, Which means you have a bad neutral in the breaker at the breaker box that the DRYER is plugged into.

PULL YOUR DRYER OUT FROM THE WALL--->To test for Ghost Voltage would be to put your meter probes on both HOT LEGS(OUTER TERMINALS) of your dryer's terminal block(WHERE YOUR POWER CORD CONNECTS TO) then have someone turn the dryer ON TIMED DRY 40 minutes and see if your meter drops from 240 volts after the person presses the START BUTTON.

Jake
 

Mason b

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2022
Messages
7
Location
North Carolina
Put your multimeter leads on both ends(OUTER TERMINALS) of the dryer terminal block(where your power cord connects to it), it should read 240 volts.

Yes it does.

PULL YOUR DRYER OUT FROM THE WALL--->To test for Ghost Voltage would be to put your meter probes on both HOT LEGS(OUTER TERMINALS) of your dryer's terminal block(WHERE YOUR POWER CORD CONNECTS TO) then have someone turn the dryer ON TIMED DRY 40 minutes and see if your meter drops from 240 volts after the person presses the START BUTTON.

Like I said, the entire dryer will not power on. To be more specific, this model has a power button just to power the unit on, and if that doesn’t work, then I can’t select any cycle and start anything because the power button is not powering the unit on. I hope I clarified enough.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,583
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Did you do what I mentioned about the Ghost Voltage possibility? Trust me, I've seen that happen many times on my service calls.

If you test for Ghost Voltage and your volts don't drop from 240 volts to 0 volts when you press the start button, then I'm attaching your tech data sheet below.

Won’t power up.
(No response when buttons are pressed.)
1. Supply connections. See TEST #1, page 4.
2. Check harness connections.
3. Console electronics and housing assembly. See TEST #7, page 9
 

Attachments

  • Tech Sheet - W10110638 (2).pdf
    641.5 KB · Views: 28

Mason b

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2022
Messages
7
Location
North Carolina
Did you do what I mentioned about the Ghost Voltage possibility? Trust me, I've seen that happen many times on my service calls.

If you test for Ghost Voltage and your volts don't drop from 240 volts to 0 volts when you press the start button, then I'm attaching your tech data sheet below.

Pressing the start cycle button will not do anything because the power button, which is separate, has to be pressed first to power the dryer on. On normal operation, my dryer will not power on by pressing the start cycle button. Once the dryer is powered on, then I can select a cycle and press start cycle. I cannot run a ghost voltage test in the manner you described due to the dryer not even powering on.

Won’t power up.
(No response when buttons are pressed.)
1. Supply connections. See TEST #1, page 4.

I am stuck on step 8.

This is where I am at with diagnosis:

Completed steps 1 and 2.

Step 3 "Check for continuity between the neutral (N) terminal of the plug and the center contact on the terminal block", my measurement was 0.1 ohms. Seems good.

Completed steps 4 and 5.

Step 6 "check for continuity between the L1 terminal of the plug (found in step 4) and P9-2 (black wire) on the machine control board", my measurement was 0.1 ohms. Seems good.

Step 7 "Check for continuity between the neutral (N) terminal of the plug and P8-3 (white wire) on the machine control board", my measurement was 0.1 ohms. Seems good.

Step 8 "Visually check that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into the machine control electronics", My control board uses the p2 and p4 slots, but not the p5. I will attach a picture of the area described. My control board part# is WPW10110641.

Thanks for your help so far, I look forward to hearing back from you!
 

Attachments

  • p5 connector.jpg
    p5 connector.jpg
    316.5 KB · Views: 25

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,583
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Ok, now I'd do Test#6 Power Cube on page 8. And Test#7 Buttons and Indicators on page 9.

Look at this thread too, it was the UI Power Cube that fixed his:

Here is your UI Power Cube:
Manufacturer's Number: WP3407228


Here is your Machine Control Electronics(control board):
Manufacturer's Number: WPW10110641


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Mason b

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2022
Messages
7
Location
North Carolina
Ok, now I'd do Test#6 Power Cube on page 8.

"Check to be sure there is continuity between P2-1 on the power cube board and P003-3 on the console electronics user interface board."
Continuity was good, readout was 0.2 ohms.

And Test#7 Buttons and Indicators on page 9.

Step 3 reads "Visually check that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into the machine control electronics."
Again, my machine control board does not use the P5 slot. There is no connector near that area looking like it goes to to P5, so I'm assuming this repair manual is close to my model but not exact. I also have to assume that, because my board does not use P5, I just need to skip this step and assume we are all good there.

Step 4 reads "Visually check that the console electronics and housing assembly is properly inserted into the front console."
Of course it is, this is just a dummy check I guess. ;)

Step 5 reads "If both visual checks pass, replace the console electronics and housing assembly."
Ok woah woah slow down there, repair manual. This test 7 isn't really a test, it's just a visual inspection, and if the visual inspection passes, then replace it anyways? That went from 0 to 100 real quick. If there were any more "check continuity" tests within this test 7, then maybe it would make me feel better about replacing another board and housing assembly (I really don't understand why I would need to replace the housing also when the manual should have a separate visual inspection for that specifically).

I am at step 5. I am reluctant to buy another board for this dryer solely based on the little detail in the repair manual provided about checking the P5 connector on the machine control electronics. My dryer does not use that slot. The difference in my dryer's wiring and the repair manual makes me think that I should be testing for other things instead of replacing a board again. Idk, just my gut feeling.

Look at this thread too, it was the UI Power Cube that fixed his:

FIXED - Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer Model WGD9400SW0 no power to user panel

Hello, I just experience the above problem today. There is power to the interior drum but nothing/unresponsive to the exterior buttons. There is no dim led lights either. I unplugged the cord for 20 minutes and plugged back in with no luck. What else should I try? Thank you Tim
www.applianceblog.com
www.applianceblog.com

I did see this already. Believe me, I have been combing through this website and other websites to find similar issues with related models so I won't have to keep asking questions or post an issue that was already solved. I do appreciate everything you have been helping me with so far Jake. I have received more info from you alone than the customer service line at Whirlpool (which was nothing). Keep up the good work, I can't wait to hear from you again!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,583
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Ok,

Won’t power up.
(No response when buttons are pressed.)
1. Supply connections. See TEST #1, page 4.
2. Check harness connections.
3. Console electronics and housing assembly. See TEST #7, page 9

Then it has to be a bad control board, that's all it can be now if the wire harness connections are good, secure, and tight.

Jake
 

Mason b

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2022
Messages
7
Location
North Carolina
I already replaced the control board with a new one last week and that didn’t fix the dryer. I mentioned it already in my very first post.
 

Mason b

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2022
Messages
7
Location
North Carolina
I will also add that the repair manual already had me do a test with the machine control electronics board.

Step 2 of that test reads “If the drum light illuminates, then power is present at the machine control. Go to TEST #6, page 8.”

Step 3 says unplug the dryer.

Step 4 says replace machine control electronics. In my first post I already stated that this was the most common problem that I read about, so that was the first thing I originally replaced. I mentioned that the new board made the dryer respond the same way it has been.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,583
Location
Redmond, Oregon
I already replaced the control board with a new one last week and that didn’t fix the dryer. I mentioned it already in my very first post.
I know that, but the new control board could be faulty, that's not uncommon. Have the place you got it from send another new one.

Or have Whirlpool come out and see what's going on, because it doesn't make sense to me either.

You can contact Whirlpool at 1-866-698-2538 and have a tech come out, the tech can call the factory on a special FACTORY HOTLINE tech number from your house, and the factory can get involved in investigating what the problem could be.

Jake
 

Mason b

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2022
Messages
7
Location
North Carolina
Where do I go from here?

If I have a service tech from Whirlpool come out here, or whoever Whirlpool uses instead of their own employees (meaning a third party company), is the tech just going to go through the same repair steps I've already done? That's truly a waste of money and my time and their time. They end up replacing the same part I've already replaced, and the dryer still doesn't work. Then I have to pay more money for another part that I've already replaced, which still doesn't fix the dryer. Now I'm in the hole a few hundred dollars when I could have invested that money in a new dryer.

The advice I have received here is sound, until the last message. Replace the main control board again because the first two could be faulty? Come on, brother. :rolleyes: You're talking to an 11 year auto tech who understands the order of diagnosis, especially when reading it right out of a repair manual. As far as the repair manual goes, it starts with going into diagnostic mode (after some basic checks), and if you cannot get into diagnostic mode, then start Test #1. I am still on Test #1 step 8: "Visually check that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into the machine control electronics". I mentioned how this repair manual is not my exact model. I have had no answer on why the manual asks for checking the P5 slot when my dryer control board doesn't use it.

That's a big gamble to replace another $250 machine control board, and if the dryer doesn't work, I now have to contact the same company again asking if I can refund the same product twice within three weeks. That is one of the last resort options at this point.

Let's circle back to Test #1.

TEST #1 Supply Connections
8. Visually check that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into the machine control electronics.
9. Visually check that the console electronics and housing assembly is properly inserted into the front console.
10. If both visual checks pass, replace the console electronics and housing assembly.

Why have you not advised me to replace the console electronics and housing assembly from step 10 yet? This is in the very first test. We have been dancing around to other tests when this important step was missed, just not by me. But I let it slide because I'm dealing with a professional of 40 years. This console electronics board from step 10 is my next suspected problem if we are truly moving on and not worrying about the discrepancy from step 8. It would be very unwise to replace a second main control board before I go and replace this console electronics board at least once, don't you think? I mean, I'm personally just following the repair manual in order of the steps.

Is there any other Admin on here who can help or should I try a different forum?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,583
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Not all things can be fixed in the forum, you have a very unusual problem.

--->ITS BEST You can contact Whirlpool at 1-866-698-2538 and have a tech come out, the tech can call the factory on a special FACTORY HOTLINE tech number from your house, and the factory can get involved in investigating what the problem could be.

Jake
 
If you feel that you have benefited from this site, and would like to show your appreciation.
Top