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FIXED WF328AAR/XAA Samsung Washing Machine 3E error message

eacramer

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2014
Messages
3
Location
North Pole AK
Model Number
WF328AAR/XAA
Brand
Samsung
Age
6-10 years
My Samsung washing machine won't spin. It will spin for normal washing speed, but when it tries to go to a high speed spin it comes up with an 3E error message. According to the Technical Information manual this means "Over-current is detected. Motor won't turn. (IP detects over-current)"
Corrective action is "Evaluate wire harness for loose or unhooked connections. Go to "Quick Test Mode" to test motor."
I went to the "Quick Test Mode" and it turns, so I think the motor is OK, but it still won't do a high speed spin.
Can anyone tell me what is wrong with this machine, I have laundry stacking up.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
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Jul 11, 2006
Messages
38,710
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Samsung's service manuals are not very helpful. That's for sure! 3E error code can also be a loose or damaged stator or hall sensor. Check the hall sensor first. It may be loose and it's a common problem on that machine. If the hall sensor and stator seem to be OK (not loose or look damaged and the wire connections are on tight) then check the voltage going to the hall sensor at the main PCB (CN8). Check the motor at the CN9 connector. The CN9 connector has 3 wires. With the power OFF you should have 11.5 ohms between any two wires. I'll look for any additional service information on that model before I post it. Some service information can be hard to understand because it was translated from Korean to English by a computer. If you run into anything that doesn't make sense let me know.

OK here's some information that might be helpful:
 

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eacramer

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2014
Messages
3
Location
North Pole AK
Thanks for the help, my laundry is starting to stack up.

I tested the Hall sensor as you suggested. The Voltage on CN8 was 3.5 and the resistance on the CN9 was 11.5 ohms, so looks like this part is okay.
Could the main PCB board need replacing?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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The Voltage on CN8 was 3.5.....
Did the voltage change? Do you have the necessary 5 VDC at the sensor?

From the service flash I attached in my last post:

Hall Sensor Check –
The hall sensor measures rotation speed by reading the magnetic field created by the magnets on the rotor.
Power the washer on and verify that +5 VDC is being supplied to the sensor by measuring the pink wire at the sensor.
Be sure to use the orange wire as your ground reference, not chassis ground. If the +5 VDC is not present, check the
connectors at the Main PCB and the continuity of the wiring.

1. Connect your DMM to the orange and red wires, you should measure 0 VDC or 3.75 VDC, manually rotate the
drum and verify that the voltage value changes up and down. If the voltage value does not change the hall
sensor is suspected to be defective.
 

eacramer

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2014
Messages
3
Location
North Pole AK
OK, after being out of town for a few weeks I am back at it, trying to fix this machine.

So far I have replaced the Main Control Board, the Stator, and the Power Control Board.
I Tested it using the service mode high speed spin test. It build speed up to about 95 and then stays between 85 and 95 for a minute before it tries to build speed. It starts building speed and around 140 it goes to a 3E error again. I think it is spinning faster than it did before, but only for a few seconds.

What else can I do?
Is there some type of Gyro or Bearing that could be prohibiting it from spinning fast?
 

wildimaginations

Appliance Tech
Joined
Jun 13, 2011
Messages
632
Location
Danville, California
You may have a wire harness problem. Something is either loose or broken in the wire harness that's causing this problem. I would start checking the continuity of each wire leading from the hall sensor and motor to the control board. When checking each wire, rock and shake the tub assembly to simulate motion to see if there is a slight break in continuity of each of the wires. If there is, even if it is so slight, replace the wire harness.

Hope this helps.
 

SkinnerVic

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
2
Location
West Coast
Did the voltage change? Do you have the necessary 5 VDC at the sensor?

From the service flash I attached in my last post:

Hall Sensor Check –
The hall sensor measures rotation speed by reading the magnetic field created by the magnets on the rotor.
Power the washer on and verify that +5 VDC is being supplied to the sensor by measuring the pink wire at the sensor.
Be sure to use the orange wire as your ground reference, not chassis ground. If the +5 VDC is not present, check the
connectors at the Main PCB and the continuity of the wiring.

1. Connect your DMM to the orange and red wires, you should measure 0 VDC or 3.75 VDC, manually rotate the
drum and verify that the voltage value changes up and down. If the voltage value does not change the hall
sensor is suspected to be defective.
After going through lots of posts for my Samsung WF520ABW, this is the closest to my issues I've found. I have the following problem in that everything works up until it needs to move the tub/spin, then it will turn maybe an 1/8 of a turn, then jog the other way. Sometimes it won't jog at all.

What I've done is everything you describe here: Ohms on the Stator are 11.4 for each combination of legs. Voltage on the Hall Sensor Lead is 4.92 V (both at CN3 and at the Stator). When I get down to measuring voltage off Orange and Blue/Red in combination with turning it, I get 23-25 mV off and 1.232 V for them on. Both Red and Blue exhibit same on voltage. Is that too low or should it be >3 VDC?

Thanks in advance,
SV
 

wildimaginations

Appliance Tech
Joined
Jun 13, 2011
Messages
632
Location
Danville, California
Measure continuity on the wire harness down to the hall sensor. What i would do is insert the probes for continuity and shake the wire harness to see if the continuity breaks.
 

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SPLzero

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2015
Messages
4
Location
Orlando
After going through lots of posts for my Samsung WF520ABW, this is the closest to my issues I've found. I have the following problem in that everything works up until it needs to move the tub/spin, then it will turn maybe an 1/8 of a turn, then jog the other way. Sometimes it won't jog at all.

What I've done is everything you describe here: Ohms on the Stator are 11.4 for each combination of legs. Voltage on the Hall Sensor Lead is 4.92 V (both at CN3 and at the Stator). When I get down to measuring voltage off Orange and Blue/Red in combination with turning it, I get 23-25 mV off and 1.232 V for them on. Both Red and Blue exhibit same on voltage. Is that too low or should it be >3 VDC?

Thanks in advance,
SV
I doubt you will respond but did you ever find a fix? I have the exact same problem on my WF455ARGSWR.

My washer will spin 1/8th one way then 1/8th the other and give 3E error.

Voltage was 0 and ~1.2 for the hall . for the Ohm at the PCB CN3 I put ground on orange and got 1.3 on blue 1.06 on red and .877 on pink.

I have plug and unplugged cn3, I have taken off the stator and removed the hall sensor and reinstalled everything incase anything was loose or unplugged.

is there a way to find out if my PCB is bad besides replacing it?
 

rickgburton

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Messages
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Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
SPLzero said:
...is there a way to find out if my PCB is bad besides replacing it?...Voltage was 0 and ~1.2 for the hall
If you don't have 5 VDC at the control board, I'd say that was a pretty good test the board is bad.
Main Control Board DC92-01040B
Main-Control-Board-DC92-01040B--01912713.jpg
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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I don't have the wire diagram or tech sheet for your model only similar models. The error code 3E occurs when there is too much resistance on the motor and the machine detects over current. Make sure something like a screw or other foreign objects isn't caught in the motor. Check the wires between the hall sensor and board and make sure none are pinched and show continuity. It's possible the motors internal coil is shorted or cut. You should be able to test the motor in "Quick Test Mode".
 

SPLzero

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2015
Messages
4
Location
Orlando
Good job. Just a guess?
I checked each line with a Multi meter and couldn't find a problem. So I bought a hall sensor and that did not solve the problem. So I figured its either the motor or the PCB. I special ordered the PCB which took about a week and a half and plugged everything up and it worked.
 

rickgburton

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Messages
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Murray, Utah 84107, United States
That's probably what I would have done also. Sorry I wasn't much help. Good to hear it's working!
 

TonyV

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Messages
1
Location
Toronto
Check the wiring harness at the motor.
disconnect motor and Hall sensor connectors (both are on the motor)
Remove all tape on wiring harness from connectors to last zip tie (you will understand once you take the back cover off the washer) to expose all wires

I found one wire from the Hall Sensor had been cut due the zip tie been to tight and over a period of 4 years with the constant movement of the drum a wire from the Hall Sensor had broken.

A $0.02 butt joint fixed what could of been a $900 washer replacement.

Good luck.
 
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