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FIXED WF45H6300AG Samsung Washer Stops Mid Cycle

Oakstone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2022
Messages
13
Location
Victoria, BC Canada
Model Number
WF45H6300AG
Brand
Samsung
Age
6-10 years
Heya,

I've had a similar issue to other folks here with my Samsung washer stopping mid-cycle. The strange thing is that I rarely (maybe 5-10% of the stops) get an error code. When I do, it's a 3E.

The washer starts the cycle as usual, then some number of minutes in, it'll just stop. After a minute or two of sitting there, the door will unlock and then it'll sit forever until we come and hit the start button again. Sometimes, that will do the trick and the cycle will complete. Other times, it'll stop again, in the same manner, several minutes later.

I decided to go with the nuclear option first since there wasn't a very specific series of codes to track down, and replaced the Main Control Board. This resulted in the unit operating perfectly for about a week, then bam! same issue again.

The next step, since the door was always unlocked after the stoppage, was to replace the door latch assembly. This had no effect. Same failures.

Then, I noticed that the water was entering kind of "bursty" rather than a full stream, sort of like shhh, shhh, shhh, shhh (if that makes sense lol), so I checked the water inlet filter and it was quite clogged. Cleaned it out, but no resolution. I replaced the water inlet valve yesterday and had an interesting situation. After replacing the part I left the top off the machine so I could ensure there were no leaks at the newly installed inlet valve connections. When the washer started the load sensing portion of the cycle, I could hear a faint "tick" and the drum wasn't rotating.

I stopped the cycle, then rotated the drum by hand a bit and reset the EEPROM, just thinking that perhaps the new part needed a fresh start with the firmware. I ran 5 cycles perfectly yesterday and thought the problem was solved. Today, the issue is back.

I am now at the point where I've dropped about 1/2 the cost of a new machine into it, but also hate the idea of just throwing away something just because I'm frustrated.

Any thoughts on what I should be looking at next?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Hi,

Here's the tech data sheet: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz...=sharing&resourcekey=0-nTDZ-HrXkrTRxmWEwIrcOg

I rarely work on Samsung appliances, and I've never had one do this error code 3E, so you'll just have to go by what the tech data sheet says to do.

Page 3 says what error code 3E is, the list is quite extensive.

Here's some threads below of what other members did to fix this error code 3E.



Then look here:

The PBA looks like its also called the Motor Inverter Board.

Here's the PBA for your model:
Motor Inverter Board DC92-01531B


Jake
 

Oakstone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2022
Messages
13
Location
Victoria, BC Canada
Thanks for the reply Jake!

Sucks that the inverter board is one of the more expensive pieces. I would hate to throw another few hundred bucks at the machine and have it not be the remedy. Is there any kind of reliable way to know?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
It does not really say how to test it in the tech. data sheet, I suppose it would be a process of elimination per what the tech data sheet mentions, you can test the hall sensor and the stator if those are good, then the PBA(Motor Inverter Board) would be the only part left.

Here's the stator for your model:
Washer Motor Stator DC31-00124A


Jake
 

Oakstone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2022
Messages
13
Location
Victoria, BC Canada
Out of curiosity, is the "rotor position sensor" the same as the Hall Sensor?

It appears that I may not need to buy a whole stator to replace it, which would be nice.

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Anytime!

Jake
 

Oakstone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2022
Messages
13
Location
Victoria, BC Canada
Hi Jake,

I’ve got the stator out with the hall sensor still attached. I’ve tested the resistance of the coil via the three terminals listed in the 3E section of the guide you posted. It says 6 ohms at 25C. I am getting 12.5 with each combo of the connections. I assume that means it’s no good? That’s way more than 10% +\-

If you agree it’s out of range, I can either replace the assembly for $150 or just the hall sensor for $65. Is there any method of knowing whether it’s the sensor/stator at this point?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
If you agree it’s out of range, I can either replace the assembly for $150 or just the hall sensor for $65. Is there any method of knowing whether it’s the sensor/stator at this point?
Its your choice, if the stator is not cracked or damaged, just order the hall sensor.

Yes, that is odd, some sites list the stator assembly I posted the link to in post#4 and some list it like you mentioned.

I went to the official Samsung site and it lists it as:
DC31-00111A Drive Motor Stator


Jake
 

Oakstone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2022
Messages
13
Location
Victoria, BC Canada
I’ve ordered the whole thing. I figure when it arrives at the parts store I’ll take my multimeter with me and test the new one at the shop before I buy it. They don’t allow returns so I want to make sure I see 6ohms not 12.5 like I’m getting.
 

Oakstone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2022
Messages
13
Location
Victoria, BC Canada
It’s a bit difficult to read but the part in the machine was the 111a variant.
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Ok, sounds good, let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

Oakstone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2022
Messages
13
Location
Victoria, BC Canada
Hi Jake,

Since we were able to sporadically get cycles to run, my wife asked me to reassemble the machine while we wait on the stator assembly. After I did that, we got one successful cycle, but after that it wouldn't spin at all, even after clearing the EEPROM etc.

The funny thing is, my wife removed all of the clothes from the cycle that didn't do anything (they were wet from filling and us hand rotating the drum) and pressed start for the heck of it. The cycle began normally and the drum spun.

So I put it in test mode and ran a spin test. It worked fine all the way up to 900+ RPM. I put a very small amount of clothes back in and tried to run a cycle. It spun at first but after the clothes got wet, it didn't spin anymore. This got me wondering, so I left the wet clothes in there and ran another spin test. It worked fine, again up to 900+ RPM.

Does that still sound like stator or position sensor to you?

I'm totally a noob, but the fact that I can get it to reliably spin in test mode just seemed kinda weird to me.

Thanks again!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Does that still sound like stator or position sensor to you?
Possibly, but its best to test it first per the tech data sheet.

Jake
 

Oakstone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2022
Messages
13
Location
Victoria, BC Canada
For sure. Now it’s making a double “tick, tick” (or click, click) and won’t turn. I can sometimes get it to go after many on/off/start attempts but it is hit or miss it that works for the remainder of the cycle or 2 minutes. If it isn’t the stator assembly, I’m gonna throw in the towel I think. Feels bad though from an environmental standpoint but we’re getting darn near the price we originally paid in parts and the issues are still there and getting worse.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Yes, I agree.

Jake
 

Oakstone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2022
Messages
13
Location
Victoria, BC Canada
Well, I have reached the end of my rope emotionally and financially haha.

I went to the store to pick up a new stator/sensor assembly. The resistance on the new part at the store measured 12.5ohm, just like my existing part. The service guy even ordered a second one just to be sure. When it came in, sure enough 12.5ohm. Since I had already replaced the main PCB, door latch switch and water inlet valve, they figured I was basically down to the only remaining thing that could be throwing 3E errors.

I came home, replaced the stator assembly and fired up a load. It started off better than it had in 2 years. The "load sensing" started right away, spinning back and forth etc. with water coming in normally. I thought we had won. But alas, 5 mins later, the washer stopped and this time, we couldn't restart the cycle. Put it in test mode and the spin test fails with 3E2 (catastrophic failure, replace PCB). Since we've already replaced the PCB, this thing has my wallet $600 lighter and now I have a junk box and another grand or two to spend on a new washer. Beyond frustrated.

Thanks again for all your help along the way Jake!

Too bad it ended this way. If you have any last suggestions, I'm all ears.
 
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