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WFG515S0ES1 (gas) Issues Re-lighting (especially at higher temperatures)

Mitchellm

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2020
Messages
28
Location
New Mexico
Model Number
WFG515S0ES1
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
Hello,

I have searched this forum and found similar issues, but unfortunately none for my model number.

What happens:
I turn my oven on and set temperature.
The oven “achieves” the desired temperature then stops heating.
When the temperature drops below threshold and needs to heat up again...
I hear the gas come on and then electric ignition click... nothing (it tries this 3 times)
This happens more often the higher the temperature I set. I like to cook bread so commonly set the temperature at max.
To work around this I have to stand near the oven and when it attempts to light open the door. This works 90% of the time.

I put “achieves”set temperature because I have an oven thermometer in there and reads anywhere from 20 to 40 lower than set temp.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,098
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Unplug the range first! Then Remove the bake burner assembly and where the igniter sparks you'll see small port holes. Take a wire brush and clean the burner assembly. Be sure to get the small port holes next to the igniter.

Also check the rest of the small port holes on the oven bake burner assembly, lots of the small port holes may be partially clogged/gunked up.

Here's the oven parts diagram for your model:

To remove the oven bake burner assembly: Remove #13 called the flame shield(burner baffle), then the oven burner assembly is #14, you remove the bake igniter #6 by removing the #10 screw first, then it will just lift up and out after you remove the #21 and #22 screws.

Here's the bake burner assembly for your model:
Whirlpool WP9758078 Burnr-Oven


Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

Mitchellm

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2020
Messages
28
Location
New Mexico
I did as instructed. The burner assembly was already clean and free of gunk/debris. I still took a wire brush and brushed down the whole thing. Replaced everything and plugged the unit back into the wall. With the (#11) bottom burner panel and the (#13) flame shield removed the oven light properly every time it tried to reignite (appx. 15 minutes of waiting at 500 degrees)
I then waited for the unit to cool and replaced the (#11) bottom burner panel and the (#13) flame shield. Turned the oven on to 500 degrees. Relight after the first attempt/third click. Did not relight on subsequent attempts.
Issue not resolved. This leads me to believe it’s somehow an issue with oxygen getting to the burner assembly. Still works when I open the door (fairly quickly).
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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That's very odd, I will need to ask BB and Rick.

Jake
 

Mitchellm

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2020
Messages
28
Location
New Mexico
If you are referring to the portion where the bake burner meets the “valve-gas” and there is a movable portion, presumably to allow or restrict airflow...
It is and was completely open.
 

rickgburton

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Messages
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OK, measure the resistance of both coils on the DSI safety valve. Both should measure about 216Ω. Access the DSI board in the console and locate the J1 connector. Start a bake cycle and check for 8-18 VDC across the bake solenoid, pins 1 and 2, and check for 120 VAC across the bake relay, pins 4(wht) and 6 (red/wht).
C-DSI Gas Range-2.jpg
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Thanks Rick!

Jake
 

Mitchellm

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2020
Messages
28
Location
New Mexico
Thank you very much for the info and pictures. Not knowing much in the way of this, it was quite helpful.
One coil on the safety valve read 215; the other 217.
VDC read 10.
VAC read 122.
 

rickgburton

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👌 Check the chassis ground wire by the bake and broil coil on the board. It's important to have a good connection.
 

Mitchellm

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2020
Messages
28
Location
New Mexico
Okay, when the bake function is running and heating up the VAC read 122.
When the oven initiates re-ignition the VAC reads similar.

When the bake function is running and heating up the VDC reads 10.
When heating is complete the VDC drops to 0.
When the re-ignition sequence starts the VDC were as follows for subsequent “clicks” and attempts:
33,15, 3, 5
18,10, 15, 10
21 10... on this attempt I had the door open, it relight and stayed 10.

when I touch the red lead probes to the bake solenoid (pin 1) and black lead probe to the common(pin 2) the meter actually reads -10. Not sure if that means anything...
(Black lead probe IS in the COM input jack)
 

Mitchellm

Premium Member
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Mar 8, 2020
Messages
28
Location
New Mexico
Another point, possibly unrelated, the stove burners are difficult to light as well. Started happening around the same time.
They light better if there is nothing sitting above the burner and I blow into or near the ignition point.
 

rickgburton

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..... where exactly is that and what am I looking for, for “good connection”?
I knew I should have added that on the pic....lol Make sure the wire is all the way on the board terminal and it's not pinched or broken down to the ground screw.
C-DSI Gas Range-2.jpg

..... the meter actually reads -10
It's fine. Check the ground wire.
 

rickgburton

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33,15, 3, 5 18,10, 15, 10 21 10... on this attempt I had the door open, it relight and stayed 10.
OK, all that jumping around with some of the voltages out of range tells me the DSI board is the problem. When you first checked the voltage before the relight did it jump around like that? The thing keeping me from pulling the trigger on this is the "opening the door to make it turn on" and "blowing on the igniter to make it light". The surface igniters use a different spark module. Other than they get supply voltage from the same place the two spark modules have nothing in common. I don't see what blowing on them does. You're not feeding it any more O2 than it can get without blowing on them. Same thing for the oven igniters. They were working properly before this and they are still getting the same amount of air. What happens if you don't open the door on a relight? I'm thinking there might be a bad solder joint on the board and opening the door is enough of a "jar" to make it work. I have seen a similar problem like this when there is not a good ground. You have a good ground from the DSI board to ground so make sure you have a good ground through the power cord. Check the round ground prong on the power cord is not broken off. Here's the DSI board but don't order it until we figure this out.
 

Mitchellm

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
28
Location
New Mexico
If I do not open the oven door then the oven does not relight (most of the time, and gets worse the higher the temperate) If it does not relight I cancel the bake command and re-command a bake at the desired temperature. Sometimes on the re-command it does not light the first time. (Maybe due to temp to high) (and then just never tries again)
It does seem to relight better/quicker if I open the door fast as opposed to slowly.
I was unable to remove the ground wire from the DSI board. (Did not want to damage components) is there something I am missing to be able to remove it? From inspection I cannot see anything amiss or wrong and everything looks good all the way to the grounding screw.
 

rickgburton

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