WFG515S0ES1 (gas) Issues Re-lighting (especially at higher temperatures)

[Mitchellm]

1. Sorry, if I do not open the door: I can hear the gas come on and flow. I can also hear the ignition clicking, but nothing lights.

2. No, it was consistent zero before the relight.

3. Removed the wire end and everything still looks good.

 

[rickgburton]

.... it was consistent zero ....

I'm 98% positive the DSI board is the problem:

Whirlpool WPW10511278 Module-Spk - AppliancePartsPros.com

MODULE-SPK WPW10511278 / AP6022501 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Here's how it works:

The spark ignition for the oven burners is started at the Electronic Oven Control (EOC). When Bake or Broil is selected the appropriate relay is closed on the EOC. 120 VAC is supplied, through the EOC relays to the Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) board at input pin J1-6 (Bake), or J1-7 (Broil), to the neutral side of the circuit, output pin J1-4. This 120 VAC is used to generate two sparks per-second to both oven burners. The 120 VAC is also stepped-down to between 8 and 18 VDC through pins J1-1 and J1-2 (Bake), and pins J1-3 and J1-2 (Broil). This DC voltage opens the gas distribution valve, and provides gas to the appropriate oven burner.

When the Bake or Broil operation is selected, the DSl initiates an “internal self-test” and “flame safety check.” The flame safety check takes place anytime there is a flame present at either oven burner. The self-test checks both solenoids on the gas distribution valve to verify that they are properly connected. If the checks are successful, the DSl will then open the appropriate valve, and initiate sparking at the burner igniter. Both the bake and broil igniters spark simultaneously. Sparking will not occur until the gas distribution valve opens.

Once the gas has ignited, the “flame safety circuit” will monitor the flame at the burner to make sure it is present. If a flame is not present at the burner the control will allow the igniter to spark for 4 seconds. Then start a 40 second delay to dissipate any unused gas inside the oven. The ignition attempt will occur three times. If the burner does not ignite after the three attempts, the system will “lockout”. During the lockout, the gas distribution valve and ignition are turned off. All lockouts can be reset by pressing OFF/Cancel.

 

[Mitchellm]

Okay, ordering:

Part Number:	AP6022501
MFG Part Number:	WPW10511278

I will let you know when it arrives and I replace it.

 

[rickgburton]

Sounds good.

 

[Mitchellm]

Item installed and no fix.

The oven was set to 525 degrees. It light and heated up normally. After the first relight attempt; it light on the third click of the first attempt. Second relight attempt. Did not relight. I hear multiple clicks three separate times. Nothing.
I assume the appliance parts are non-returnable.
Any more ideas?

 

[rickgburton]

The oven was set to 525 degrees.

That's way too hot to check anything with any accuracy. Try again at 350° and see what happens.

 

[Mitchellm]

350 was never an issue. The oven fails to relight at higher temperatures. 425+ (ish)

 

[rickgburton]

Hmm..., I guess I missed that. I thought it was at all temperatures but "especially at high temperatures". What's the resistance of the oven sensor @ 500°? Does the self clean cycle work?

I hear multiple clicks three separate times

About 40 seconds apart?? Does the machine go into lock out mode?

 

[Mitchellm]

How do I test the resistance of the oven sensor? I have not used the self clean cycle before.
Yes 40 seconds apart and yes after the third attempt it stops and I have to cancel the bake and start it up again.

 

[rickgburton]

When the range reaches 500° unplug the range and disconnect CON3 from the control and it's pins 9 and 10 in the connector. I think it's these two:

 

[Mitchellm]

Okay, I let the oven reach 500 degrees. Unplugged the whole unit and then unplugged the connector to pins 9 and 10 and got a reading on 1960, decreasing as the temperature dropped.

 

[rickgburton]

That the correct resistance. So everything checks good. I don't know what else to tell you.

 

[Mitchellm]

Quite unfortunate. Is there a possibility that there may be an issue with the gas line leading into the oven?
Or an issue with the bottom oven panel restricting air flow? I said early on, with the panel removed there were no issues with relight.

 

[Mitchellm]

Also, would it be okay to just remove the panel and use the oven without it?

 

[rickgburton]

Is there a possibility that there may be an issue with the gas line leading into the oven?

No, the gas comes from the DSI valve and when it works it works properly. There could be a problem with the coils on the valve but you checked them.

an issue with the bottom oven panel restricting air flow?

If it didn't restrict air flow when you first got it I don't see why it would now.

would it be okay to just remove the panel and use the oven without it?

I don't see why not. (You're referring to the front panel below the door, right?)

 

[Jake]

@Mitchellm Are you on Natural Gas or LP Gas?

Rick, could it possibly be his gas regulator(valve), since he said it does this on the top burners as well?

Like its no longer regulating the gas pressure correctly?

WPW10602001 Valve-Gas


Jake

 

[Mitchellm]

Natural gas

 

[rickgburton]

That's an interesting question Jake, How does the surface manifold get the gas ? On the DSI valve I see one "In" and 2 "out" (bake and broil). ??

 

[Jake]

There should be a gas pipe from the gas valve that goes to the surface burners, that's the way it used to be. LOL

If the gas valve regulator is acting up wouldn't that cause pressure problems to all the burners?

I remember one on a service call in Tucson, Arizona when I worked for Montgomery Ward in the 1990's doing the same thing and the new gas valve regulator fixed it.

Jake

 

[rickgburton]

OK now you're going to make me look it up...LOL SB