WFW85HEFC1 Whirlpool Washer - Having issues with F03 E01 error code

[ronin026]

Model Number

WFW85HEFC1

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

1-5 years

Hi there,

My washing machine is a Whirlpool WFW85HEFC1

I am receiving the F03 E01 error code. I searched the forum and found two related post -
https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/wfw87hedw0-f03-e01-error-code.71224/

FIXED - WFW95HEDW0 Whirlpool Duet Washer Error F3E1

Our duet washer is giving an F3E1 error during the cycle. I believe this code refers to a water pressure switch/sensor fault. After replacing the switch (located on right side at the top of the machine) it appeared the issue was resolved. However, after about five loads, the error message...

www.applianceblog.com

I took apart the top and back of the washer and ensured the pressure switch hose(long black hose going to pressure switch from the air dome) was clear of obstructions and not punctured. It all checked out, the pressure switch is plugged in and connected properly. I cleaned out the air dome as well(was a thin layer of water grim on the inside). After this ran 3 more loads and ran into the same problem. I then ordered the an air dome assembly as well as a pressure switch in an effort to resolve this error. I'd like not to buy them both at once but it estimates 6 days to get me the new parts and I can't run the risk of getting the wrong part and having to wait another 6 days(big family = lots of laundry building up).


However after looking into it further I'm not certain what the cause of the issue may be. My wife told me about clothes coming out of the washer sopping wet. I ran a load with a single towel today and noticed that it was spinning quite slowly, even with the speed setting for spin set to fast. I don't know if this is related to the pressure switch, or perhaps the washer thinking there's still lots of water in the tub. Just now I set it to the drain and spin cycle, which is supposed to be a 15 min cycle, with 1 normal size towel in it and 10 minutes in the timer had only got down 2 minutes. Showed 13 mins left, and was barely spinning any faster than a normal tumble cycle. Literally it was spinning slow enough that the clothes were tumbling in the tub vs spinning fast and stuck to the outside of the tub. Then another 10 minutes later it finally went into high speed and got the tub spinning fast.

Is this typical with having issues with the pressure switch(or machine believing water is still in the tub)? Or could this be a cause for said issue?

Can anyone help me out with this please?

Thank you,

 

[Jake]

Hi,

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

F3E1=WATER LEVEL SYSTEM ERROR--->The ACU detects an out of range pressure signal.

Possible Causes
--->Check connections from tub to air trap, air trap to pressure hose, and pressure hose to water level sensor.
Is pressure hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?
See TEST #7 (Water Level Sensor) on page 17.

First, without clothes in the machine, do a Rinse/Spin cycle and stay with the washer, when it gets ready to drain pull the drain hose up from your standpipe and watch how fast the water comes out, it should come out very fast with lots of pressure. If its draining slow then check your drain pump filter.

Here's the drain pump for your model:
Drain Pump WPW10605427


Here's the video to access it:

Whirlpool Front-Load Washer Replace Drain Pump #WPW10425238 | Repair Clinic

This video provides step-by-step repair instructions for replacing the drain pump on a Whirlpool front-load washer. Learn more from the experts at Repair Clinic.

www.anrdoezrs.net

Once you access it, you will see the filter cap handle that you can unscrew off and remove the drain pump filter to clean it. Also remove the drain pump to see if something is inside it clogging it up and keeping it from running/draining.

Have lots of BIG OLD TOWELS ready because some water will come out when you remove the drain pump filter.

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[ronin026]

Hi Jake

Thank you for taking the time to reply. I did check how the washer is draining and it appears to be draining with quite a bit of pressure. Full stream of water coming from the drain hose, and lots of pressure as you had indicated. Should I check the drain pump filter anyway? or leave it be?

 

[Jake]

If its draining good, then leave the drain pump filter be.

Did you blow hard into the pressure switch hose that goes to the air dome? Make sure NO water is in the tub when you do that.

Do what your tech data sheet mentions to do:
--->Check connections from tub to air trap, air trap to pressure hose, and pressure hose to water level sensor.
Is pressure hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?
See TEST #7 (Water Level Sensor) on page 17.

Jake

 

[ronin026]

So I received a new water level sensor switch today, as well as a new air trap, and have installed them both. I went through all the steps for Test #7 per spec sheet, however I had a little difficulty with steps 9 "9. Visually check that connector J28 is inserted all the way into the ACU (refer to ACU diagram on page 13).

Also check that the water level sensor harness is securely connected to the sensor " as well as step 12 "12. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect black probe to ACU connector J28, pin 1 (GND) and red probe to J28, pin 4 (+5V [Vcc]).  If +5V DC is present, replace the water level sensor. (Before replacing the sensor, make sure that there is NO water remaining in the tub or there will not be an accurate water level measurement and an error code may appear.

Drain the tub by running a drain & spin cycle with the sensor plugged into J28 but with the hose removed).  If+5V DC is not present, perform TEST #1: ACU Power Check on page 13. "

The reason for this is I couldn't figure out how to access the ACU on my model. Sorry if this is a novice question, but I am certainly a novice in appliance repair. I have attached two photos to show the ACU, and I found J28 but there is a flip cover on the top that should open however it is hitting the front cross member that attaches to the front fascia. If you could help me get this open I can test continuity as well as the DC voltage.

Thanks again for your help.

 

[Jake]

In your first photo see the little plastic clip on the back side of the ACU? You have to lift that clip and slide the ACU towards the back to remove it, then you can open that plastic cover on top to get to the connectors.

Jake