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FIXED WFW9150WW01 Another problematic Whirlpool Duet - Not spinning

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joe12345

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Massachusetts
Model Number
WFW9150WW01
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
More than 10 years
I'm not sure who you good people are, but I have already benefited immensely from reading threads on this website. I didn’t think I would need to post anything, but, well, here I am.

I moved into a home with a Whirlpool Duet washing machine (WFW9150WW01) manufactured in 2010. I have no idea what the washer’s history is. We used it a few weeks and then it died. As best I can remember (sorry if this is overly detailed, not sure what's helpful)...
  1. I initially discovered a problem when a load was finished but still wet. The spin cycle didn’t seem to have worked. I tried it again with the same result.
  2. After trying again, the door wouldn’t unlock. I opened the front panel and manually unlocked it. I removed the load and drained the washer using the outlet by the pump. There were a few items by the filter, but nothing terrible.
  3. When I tried again, the door locked (audible), the “add a garment” light came on, but the door didn’t unlock (to permit adding a garment). Then nothing further happened.
  4. I got the manual from the front cover and ran the diagnostic test. The code corresponded with the analog pressure switch. I removed the switch and tested the resistance. It tested correctly with a multimeter (so far as I could tell, given that the manual and the switch lead identifiers didn't match), and when I gently blew into the switch I could here the mechanism engage.
  5. I reattached the switch, cleared the code and tried another cycle. This time the error code switched to tell me that the door lock was faulty. I had suspected this, since it wouldn’t unlock. In resistance testing the lock, it seemed faulty. I ordered another lock and installed it, but the problem remained. I removed the new lock, tested it, and learned that maybe I hadn't been careful enough in testing the original. I tested the original again and saw that it was actually just fine. I reinstalled it.
  6. I ran the diagnostics again, issuing the automated test sequence. The test progressed up to the point where it was supposed to test the movement of the drum (operation 4), at which point it just sat there. When I checked the codes, they were the same.
  7. In trying to run additional cycles, with intermittent unplugging for increasingly longer periods of time, I succeeded in getting the water to start coming in on one single occasion (subsequently drained manually), but otherwise nothing happened. Eventually, I started to receive the triple beep of death and the wash light was consistently on (not flashing).
  8. At this point I started to test everything I could. Using the manual (adjusted for misprints based on web threads), I tested everything I could make sense of -- the pressure switch, all three inlet valves, the motor, the tachometer, the door switch, front and rear panel grounding switches. I didn't get to the drain pump. I worked my way to the MCU and was pleased to find the characteristic burned trace noted by others. "Aha!", I thought. I ordered a replacement, installed it, and... nothing. The triple beep and constant wash light remain. I have been unsuccessful.
  9. When I enter the diagnostic mode now, the user interface panel still lights up correctly. Then I try to start the automated diagnostic test, which appears to begin when the start button light turns on. However, the first step in the automated system is a door lock, and that doesn't happen. Maybe the door lock is faulty? When I try to clear the error codes (push and hold third button for 5 seconds), a beep is issued and the wash light flickers momentarily, only to return to its consistently illuminated state.
At this point, provided I haven't failed in my diagnostics, there are only a few components left. I am tempted to try to acquire another CCU. However, I write to you folks in hopes of getting some clearer direction. The chances that the CCU and MCU would blow simultaneously, seems low. Yes, this is an 11 year old washer, but that doesn't seem logical. In my research, I have found this particular washer to turn up frequently on help forums. Maybe I should cut my losses and move on. For reference, the replacement parts I have tried are used parts guaranteed to work (new parts are either not available or too expensive relative to the washer's age). Any clear advice, suggestions for what and how to test certain components, or the like, would be most appreciated.

Many thanks,
Joe
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
129,011
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Hi Joe,

As I was beginning to read your thread, my first thought was the MCU and I was going to tell you to check for burnt components on it, which as I continued reading you did, and you found burnt spots on it.

Where did you order the replaced MCU at? Another member had this same issue and the replacement MCU was faulty, when they ordered the MCU from our links It fixed it.:)


Here's the MCU for your model:
Motor control unit (MCU) WPW10384843


Jake
 

joe12345

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Massachusetts
Hi Jake,

Thanks for your thoughts. I got my MCU second-hand off ebay, as I wasn't (am still am not) confident that it would fix the issue. If it did, then ordering a part for a couple hundred dollars would be fine. I'll look at RepairClinic's return policy. From your comments it sounds like you think a functional MCU would fix the issues.

In the meantime, do you have any thoughts on the shifting error codes and now, lack of clear error code? Is that expected? From my reading, I am having a hard time telling whether the erratic behavior I am seeing is typical of MCU issues, or if there is also something else awry. I don't think I ever got the error code related to serial communication.

In the link you referenced in your preceding post, Rick sent some wiring diagrams and noted "Make sure the machine doesn't see a short in the grounding system." I can Google about how to do that, and how a short would manifest, but if you have some quick pointers, I would be grateful.

Thanks,
Joe
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
129,011
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Do all the tests Rick mentioned to do in that other thread I posted the link to above.

That's really all you can do to check it, but usually when you see burnt spots on the MCU, ordering the new MCU fixes it, I've replaced many of these same MCU's for this same problem and it always fixed the ones I did.

Jake
 

joe12345

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Massachusetts
So, I systematically tested every single wire and component I could. All cables showed fine continuity. All components showed appropriate resistance. The ground circuit was in-tact and switches worked as they should. However, I eventually discovered that there was a bad connection between the CCU and the door lock switch (DS2 port on CCU). On examination, I found that I had messed up the contact pins on the wire at the door lock end. Rookie mistake. I know that I can purchase a new wiring harness, but I have been trying to locate a new wire-to-board connector.
 

joe12345

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Massachusetts
Nevermind. I ordered the wiring harness. I'll update thread when the machine is either fixed or still showing problems with new harness.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
129,011
Location
Redmond, Oregon

joe12345

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Massachusetts
Success!! After installing the new wiring harness (and remembering to plug the motor back in... sigh) the washer seems to be working. Fingers crossed that it actually finishes the load and proceeds to washer hundreds more.

For anyone finding this thread in the future, I'll note a few things. First, my issue was definitely a fried MCU, as others had found. It had the characteristic burned trace visible on the back when the MCU was taken out of the housing. The additional problems I found were caused by my own negligence. This leads me to: be careful with the wiring harness connectors. The metal pins in the connectors are tiny, not heavily pressurized for contact with the PCB, and easily bent. I literally tested every single wire and component before finding, on my very last set of tests, that I had inadvertently messed up a connector through repeated disassembling and reassembling. It's a good idea to test items at the CCU end of the wires first, because if you get the correct readings, you have answered both the resistance questions and the continuity questions. For reference, in case it's helpful to another DIYer out there, as an amateur who is quite handy but knew nothing about modern front load washing machines, I would guess that it took me 12 hours to do the deconstruction, web research, ordering, and repeated testing to isolate the issue. Also, in case it's helpful, as I have seen some comments about this elsewhere, it took about 2.5 hours to test every wire for continuity and every component for the appropriate resistance. Proper tools and basic knowledge of which items are delicate and which are not, would certainly speed this up.

I am indebted to the folks on this forum, and in particular Jake, who has (over many years) answered a number of questions relevant to my particular machine. Thank you to all! Like most people, I use the web for answers to many things. However, deconstructing and diagnosing a broken, digital washer was not something I anticipated being able to learn from piecemeal tidbits. And the best part -- now I really know how my washer works, and will be able to fix it far more quickly in the future.

Joe
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
129,011
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Excellent Joe, good job, glad to hear the new MCU and wiring harness fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update and the added information you posted!

Jake
 
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