FIXED WFW94HEXR2 - Help Multiple Errors

CarbonMcgill

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
5
Location
canada
Model Number
WFW94HEXR2
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Hey guys, In need of some assistance.

I have a whirlpool WFW94HEXR2 washing machine, a wife and two small kids.

Several times over the last few years I've had to pull of the front panel of this machine to remove small socks and Breast pads from the pump filter.

Each time I put the machine back together and no issues.


This time was a completely different story.

When I re assembled and tried to run a cycle, the door locked and sounded like it was running normally, however after a few minutes I noticed that it wasn't filling with water. So I pulled it all apart to verify all my connections. They were all fine, so I reassembelled it and tried it again. Same result.

For some reason my service sheets are not in the washing machine so I used the service manual from this link.
https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/46757-Whirlpool-WFW94HEXW2-Front-load-washer-Error-code-F6-E2

Originally I got the F6 E2 Error, so as per the sheets I verified all connections, continuity, and voltges. All checked out ok.

After a series of monkeying around I got the error to switch to F6 E1.
Again I checked the connections and continuity. All good.

I then again did test 1 and everything checked out.

I did test 3, did all the visual and physical test and all good, checked the resistance and those were good as well.
Then as part of test 3 I checked pin 1 and 2 for line voltage, when running the diagnostic tests I had minimal voltage, however when c05 would run, I would get line voltage for a second or two and then it would drop back down. Then a min or two later it would show voltage again. Almost as if the diag was trying to rerun the test.

As per the instructions, if you have voltage - replace the MCU , if not replace the CCU.

I guess this means that I should replace the MCU. But before I do that I decided to test the door lock switch as it is noted in the F6E1 notes.

When I take my meter to the door switch it has the proper continuity, but when I ohm the DL3-1 to DL3-2 and DL3-2 to DL3-3 - I get 165 Ohm.

The sheets say it should range between 50-74ohm.

OK SO ITS THEDOOR LOCK SWITCH.

Of so I thought, I went and got a brand new oem switch from a parts store, and because they wont refund installed parts, I decided to Ohm it out first!
Guess what, exact same readings as my supposed "defective" one.

Does this mean my switch is fine and I should replace the MCU?

At this point I am not sure what to check / try to remedy this issue.


Any suggestions, or assistance would be greatly appreciated .


Thanks
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,002
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
... did test 1 and everything checked out.
You had both +5VDC and +12VDC with the red meter lead on pin 2?

...when c05 would run, I would get line voltage for a second or two and then it would drop back down.
That would be considered no voltage or I should say I would consider that as no voltage and replace the CCU.
Control Board W10427967


Clear all the fault codes (page 5-6) then try running a wash cycle. If the machine stops, run the diagnostics and see what error codes are logged.
 

CarbonMcgill

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
5
Location
canada
Rick you are correct.

I checked the vdc voltages and they were no longer correct.

The 5vdc would monemtaitly show as 4.1vdc then drop to zero, than momentarily show again .

The 12vdc would show as 7.6vdc then drop to zero, than momentarily show again.


So it looks like it is the CCU .

Thanks
 

CarbonMcgill

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
5
Location
canada
So $350 later I ordered and installed the new ccu and no change at all .....same issue.

If I try and run the quick diag test it goes to C00 but stalls and goes no further. After 10 minutes I pressed the power button and got a F6 e3 error.

I checked the continuity of the cable between the UI7 and c2 and all pins have correct continuity.

When I do test 1 I get to step 10 - Verify DC Voltages.
When I attempt to meter between pin 7 (gnd) and pin 2 (vcc) I again get 4.1vdc then drop to zero, than momentarily show again .

The 12vdc would show as 7.6vdc then drop to zero, than momentarily show again.

Exact same as my original CCU.

If I use the ground from the back of the washing machine instead of the , I get can get the voltage to show constant and not drop out. However it is still lower than it should be.


I'm having a hard time believing that I have 2 damaged CCU's.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EDIT - I didn't delete my above post as a lesson to others. I'm an idiot and didn't pay attention to the mode my meter was in. I guess I hit the select button instead of the light button and put my meter into AC. This is why it was giving me false readings.

When I grabbed my dc only meter the voltages showed correctly - 5vdc on pin 2 and 7 and 12vdc on pin 2 and 3.

Please let this be a lesson to you to double check what you are doing each step.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Anyhow.

Now that I discovered this I reinstalled my original ccu and checked the voltages again everything is correct and it passes test #1
I then did test #2 and everything passed as well.

I try and run the quick diagnostic test and it shows C00, Door locks, then nothing.


Please help, my wife is really getting tired of washing the kids clothes down by the river....
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,609
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

C00: Door lock motor is actuated. Door unlocks, and then locks again. Pump is activated for 15 seconds.*
• Door Lock System• Drain Pump*
*C00 – For STEAM models, the drain pump is activated as part of the APS (Analog Pressure Sensor) calibration routine. For NON-STEAM models, the drain pump is only activated if the CCU detects a significant amount of water in the tub. Drain time will depend on water in tub.

F6E1: COMMUNICATION ERROR BETWEEN CCU AND MCU
F6E2: COMMUNICATION ERROR UI TO CCU

Make sure you do all the TESTS it says to do in those two error codes.

If you seem to be getting nowhere, then its best to have a Whirlpool tech come out to see what's going on, sometimes when a machine gives you all these problems its very difficult to help you fix it just on the forum here, A tech being at the machine is much better.

Jake
 

CarbonMcgill

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
5
Location
canada
I have done the tests for F6E3 and they passed.

When i went to run the quick diag it just hangs on c00. The door locks and then nothing else, it does not unlock or move on to the next test.

I cant do the test for F6 E1 as it requires me to meter MS2 when test C05 is running and i cant even get to that.


The door will lock, and after a while will unlock if i cancel the diag so the door system must be functioning (i have done the lock tests and they pass)
But when i try to run the diag it hangs on the first test.

Why would it hang on the c00?
 

CarbonMcgill

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
5
Location
canada
When i got home today i pulled apart the washer and checked all my connections. Turns out the cable between the mcu and ccu wasnt seated correctly.

I rectified that and re ran the quick diag.

This time it successfully went thru c0,c2,c3,c4.

When i got to c5, i had no voltage ac voltage across pins 1and2 of ms2.
after a few seconds it sounded like the there was something gurgling and i got 120v for a few moments.

I let it go thru to c8 and same result.


So i swapped out the ccu to the new one that i purchased.

Unfortunately i ran the quick diag test and it stays at c00, does not attempt to lock the door or anything.

Has stayed there for several minutes now and is non responsive.

I unplugged the washer, swapped out the ccu to the old "defective" one and it tested the same as when i got home.

Swapped it back to the new one and same result - hangs on c00.

I just uplugged the washer for a minute, plugged it back in and cleared the codes.

I then unplugged it again for a few minutes and plugged it in and its non responsive if i press power or turn the dial. The only thing i can do i get into the service menu.


Any suggestions? Is there something im overlooking?
 
Last edited:

DavidOhsie

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2017
Messages
1
Location
MD
I just had a similar experience to yours, removed a sock from the pump trap and soon after started getting F6E3. However, I also got F6E1. Had the same experience with the confusion on the resistance of the door lock. Running the diagnostics would hang at C00.

I opened the MCU, and saw a small burn mark as some have reported as a symptom of a failed MCU. Replacing the MCU solved the problem. I would consider buying an MCU from a place that will let you return, and try replacing it.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,609
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Thanks David for pointing that out, I have seen alot of burnt spots on the MCU more than the CCU. And I do replace many more MCU's than CCU's.

Here's the MCU, when you click the link to it you will see many others that had this same F6E1 and it fixed theirs:
WPW10374126 Motor Control Board


Here's the same MCU that Ships to either the USA or Canada:
Motor Control Board WPW10374126


Jake
 
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