FIXED WHB36S Whirlpool Mini Fridge Relay

[jimbo2]

Measure the compressor windings. Measure from each compressor pin to ground.
View attachment 63637

Measuring from the base of the compressor, the singular top pin is roughly 2" and the two bottom pins are roughly 1.5"

 

[paulhl]

Ya can't make this stuff up( where's the smiley)

 

[rickgburton]

LOL..... Measure the resistance of the compressor start windings and run windings. look at the picture I posted. I suspect the reason for the breaker tripping, is a short between one of the pins to ground.

 

[jimbo2]

CS 11 CR 6.6

 

[rickgburton]

Compressor is bad, not the relay

 

[jimbo2]

Compressor is bad, not the relay

Relay wasn’t good either. Could one of these replacement relays have fried the compressor?

 

[rickgburton]

No, the compressor isn't "fried" so to speak. Your start windings are right at the high limit of the 3-11 ohms and the start windings are over the high limit. Too much resistance. Did you check for a short?

 

[jimbo2]

No, the compressor isn't "fried" so to speak. Your start windings are right at the high limit of the 3-11 ohms and the start windings are over the high limit. Too much resistance. Did you check for a short?

Yeah I wasn’t able to find one

 

[rickgburton]

On the mini fridge you start windings should be around 3-4 ohms and run windings 1-2 ohms The high resistance is probably causing the compressor to draw high amps and trips the breaker.

 

[SteveMac]

Hey jimbo. I know it's been about a week and a half since you posted, but I just stumbled upon this thread. I wanted to post my own experience with this issue in case you haven't gotten your issue resolved. Or, even if you have, this information might be beneficial to someone else in the future who comes looking for answers.

I have a Galanz 7.6 refrigerator which started making the clicking sound every couple of minutes and stopped cooling. Troubleshooted and determined that the PTC start relay had failed. Initially diagnosed the failed relay using the "rattle test" and then removed the cover from the relay and confirmed that the ceramic thermistor (disc) inside was broken into pieces. Like you, I had trouble locating an exact replacement relay. I ended up ordering a couple of relays that matched the part number I needed, but none of them matched the terminal configuration of my original relay. After some research, I determined that I could make any of the replacement relays work by connecting the proper wires to the proper terminals, but I also determined that there was a far simpler solution to the problem. The original relay had a 4.7 Ohm thermistor and the replacement relays have 4.7 Ohm thermistors. In my case, with the exception of the terminal configuration, the relays were identical. So... I opened the cover on the original relay and cleaned out the broken pieces of the thermistor. Then I opened one of the replacement relays, removed the good/intact thermistor and installed it in the original relay. Reinstalled the cover, reinstalled the relay onto the compressor and tested. Refrigerator is running and cooling properly again with the original (OEM) relay with new thermistor guts. No confusion about terminals, wiring or anything else. Simple fix.

A couple of notes: jimbo, your breaker tripped because the relay caused a short circuit. Chances are, if you open the relay and look inside, you'll find that the terminals you've connected your black and white wires to are actually connected together. If you use the approach outlined above, this obviously won't be an issue as you'll be using your original relay with the proper terminal configuration. Just make sure that the Ohm rating on your new thermistor matches the original. In my case, they were both 4.7 Ohm. That said, please note that I'm not an electrician or an appliance repair technician. My experience/advice is offered for informational purposes only and if you use my advice to try repairing your appliance, you do so at your own risk. If you don't feel confident or comfortable working on your appliance, you should hire a professional. I am not responsible if you injure yourself or anyone else.

 

[CWS1120]

I'm trying to trouble shoot a Whirlpool WHB36S mini fridge that's stopped working. It makes a clicking noise and the compressor doesn't turn on. I took out the starter relay and it failed the rattle test. Tested it for continuity as well with my multimeter and it failed that as well.

Now the difficult part has been sourcing the right relay. The original is part number JPQII-4.7. It's a 4.7 2 pin relay with pins in position 1 and 2.

I tried these MZ92 4.7 with pins in positions 1 and 4 and the fridge still won't cool. Oddly enough with the replacement relay, the digital temperature display says the temperature is dropping, but the my laser thermometer was showing room temp and the compressor got very hot. amazon.com/dp/B07MXBL4B6

Any ideas on a suitable replacement? Would a 4.7 3 pin work and just leave one pin unused? I can't seem to find the original relay anywhere.

I have a whirpool mini fridge that stopped cooling,it has the same part number as you stated above,,jpqII 4.7 WITH TWO METAL TABS,,,i ordered what i thought was correct but i was sent a relay with only one metal tab,,,did you find the correct part and fix your fridge..please advise if you did and where to look for parts

 

[CWS1120]

Yes, put the wires on the same terminals.

I also am looking for a jpq ii 4.7 relay for my whirlpool,,it has a foreign name compressor,,huwa something,,,cant find part anywhere,,,is there a part that will work,,i see many that have 2 tabs and two holes in back as mine does,,fridge is only 2 years old...is it safe to bypass relay to make sure thats the problem,,when i shake the relay it rattles ,,i ordered one from amazon but they sent one with only one tab and mine has two,,,

 

[jpfranke711]

Jimbo & CWS - I believe the PTC ordered is not the issue. The wiring of the PTC to the same pin designations was the issue. I ordered same replacement part 4387913 I had to open both PTC's to verify how the relays Pins were arranged. The black wire on the original PTC is on a Dummy Pin (connected to nothing internal to the PTC) . It can be tapped off and abandoned as it does nothing in the PTC . The White wire needs to land Pin corresponding to Run winding Pin on the compressor. Thanks to Steve Mac & Rick Burton for the posts, your Comments above helped me to repair my beer cooler. Cheers!

 

[CWS1120]

I have a new starter relay that has only one tab not two like the original,,if im understanding you the second tab for the balck wire does nothing so maybe if i just plug in the white wires on the one tab and leave off the black wires completely it may work,,i cannot find replacement parts anywhere online,,i called the 800 number from manual and they are clueless

 

[CWS1120]

This is a pic of the relay that came off mini fridge,,cannot locate one anywhere,,will a similar relay with 3 metal tabs work as it should,,

 

[CWS1120]

Hey jimbo. I know it's been about a week and a half since you posted, but I just stumbled upon this thread. I wanted to post my own experience with this issue in case you haven't gotten your issue resolved. Or, even if you have, this information might be beneficial to someone else in the future who comes looking for answers.

I have a Galanz 7.6 refrigerator which started making the clicking sound every couple of minutes and stopped cooling. Troubleshooted and determined that the PTC start relay had failed. Initially diagnosed the failed relay using the "rattle test" and then removed the cover from the relay and confirmed that the ceramic thermistor (disc) inside was broken into pieces. Like you, I had trouble locating an exact replacement relay. I ended up ordering a couple of relays that matched the part number I needed, but none of them matched the terminal configuration of my original relay. After some research, I determined that I could make any of the replacement relays work by connecting the proper wires to the proper terminals, but I also determined that there was a far simpler solution to the problem. The original relay had a 4.7 Ohm thermistor and the replacement relays have 4.7 Ohm thermistors. In my case, with the exception of the terminal configuration, the relays were identical. So... I opened the cover on the original relay and cleaned out the broken pieces of the thermistor. Then I opened one of the replacement relays, removed the good/intact thermistor and installed it in the original relay. Reinstalled the cover, reinstalled the relay onto the compressor and tested. Refrigerator is running and cooling properly again with the original (OEM) relay with new thermistor guts. No confusion about terminals, wiring or anything else. Simple fix.

A couple of notes: jimbo, your breaker tripped because the relay caused a short circuit. Chances are, if you open the relay and look inside, you'll find that the terminals you've connected your black and white wires to are actually connected together. If you use the approach outlined above, this obviously won't be an issue as you'll be using your original relay with the proper terminal configuration. Just make sure that the Ohm rating on your new thermistor matches the original. In my case, they were both 4.7 Ohm. That said, please note that I'm not an electrician or an appliance repair technician. My experience/advice is offered for informational purposes only and if you use my advice to try repairing your appliance, you do so at your own risk. If you don't feel confident or comfortable working on your appliance, you should hire a professional. I am not responsible if you injure yourself or anyone else.

Great idea about opening relay and using guts out of good one however how do i get relay open,,relay on my whirlpool mini fridge is jpq 2 4.7..it has two tabs..cannot locate one anywhere online,,called whirlpool and they said the part was discontunued ??Fridge is only a year old...any suggestion would be appreciated

 

[jpfranke711]

To open I used the Tabs On the side. Broke one of my tabs and had to use electrical tape to re-secure.

Should not have to open if you use this one and only hook up the white wire to the run terminal. Been running 4 days maintaining 42*F. I used the original Overload as it was not the issue. The PTC you have may work. Just need to ensure that the new Pin on your PTC lands on the Run Terminal of the compressor.

 

[CWS1120]

Got it open,,inside was a small disc,,in original one off compressor the disc was broken into pieces,,i put the good disc in original relay buy all it does is click intermittenly..trying to figure out how to bypass relay fro a second to make sure compressor is good..

 

[CWS1120]

How can i bypass relay for a second to check that compressor is good,,i took a good overload disc and put it in original relay and fridge just clicks intermittently

 

[jimbo2]

I think mines headed to the trash. Hooked up the replacement with the white wire as suggested. The display comes on, but the compressor never kicks on.