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Which components wired to a Maytag lid switch could also contribute to the lid switch fuse to blow?

DiverDave

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
2
Location
California
Model Number
LAT9235AAE
Brand
Maytag
Age
More than 10 years
My Maytag washer model LAT9235AAE, Serial 1377674 QM - may also be referred to as a Newton - suddenly stopped working in wash mode. When I set the dial to start a wash cycle and pull out the knob, nothing happens. But when I turn it to spin it discharges water and spins as normal.
About 2 weeks ago, A wood shim under one leg jumped up into the fan belt and caused the motor to smoke. Fortunately I caught it in time and shut it down. I removed the wood and the machine worked fine again. I also pulled the front cover and inspected the motor but saw no issues of lose or burned wires or corrosion. In fact this machine is surprisingly clean. The smoke may have come from the fan belt.

2 Weeks later it wouldn’t agitate so I pulled the cover off the upper control panel and found the 4-amp fuse mounted to the lid switch and off-balance switch assembly was blown. I didn’t have a replacement so I jumper-ed across the fuse with needle nose pliers and produced a small spark. However the machine did not start a wash cycle. Hope I didn’t screw something else up.

I did an ohm test across the small white lid switch (black and red spade clips). Ohms shows “closed” when the lid is down and open when the lid is up. There is a 3rd white wire on this white switch that goes back to the 4 amp fuse bus bar. Don’t know why?

I also ohm tested the black rectangular “off balance” switch. It shows “ohm closed” when the lid is closed and “open” when the lid is open. The wire colors are red on one side and black on the other.

In my limited appliance experience it seems like the lid switch tests indicate the switches are good. But its 4 amp fuse was blown. Is there something else to look for down line of this perhaps at the motor switching, or water level diaphragm switch, etc?

What I am trying to figure out is “what and how” to test the most common things that fail on these machines. If there is something more than the lid switch assembly broken, I don’t want to find out each problem through a process of buying multiple parts as a substitute for a troubleshooting flowchart method. I want to try and test everything possible and verify with reasonable certainty what needs to be replaced in total.

Which components wired to this Maytag lid switch could also contribute to the lid switch to blow a fuse?

Would appreciate any suggestions. I did get the service manual but the trouble shooting section seems designed for those with advanced knowledge of appliance repair.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
109,078
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Your check switch next to the lid switch. Whenever that fuse blows you have to change the complete lid switch assembly.

I have good news.:)

I have a wiring diagram for your model, and its easy to read.:)

The lid switch and check switch are on the same lid switch bracket assembly:
WP22001682 Lid Switch Assembly


It comes together in one piece with a new fuse too, there is a video in the part link that shows you how to install it.

Lid switch is the black one, check switch is the white one.:)

Here's a close-up of it:
maywashlidswitch.jpg


The black wire from the timer connects to the SW(marked on the lid switch bracket assembly) on the lid switch, the double red wire connects to the other side of the lid switch, the other end of the red wire connects to the UL12 of the check switch, then the white wire connects to 30 on the check switch, then the double yellow wire goes to M on the check switch.

Jake
 

DiverDave

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
2
Location
California
Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch - that is the question

I keep getting advice to just replace the lid switch, so I bought a brand new lid switch assembly. I did not install it. I used it to see if it would ohm test the same as the old one that has the blown fuse.
Both the check switch and the other switch ohm test exactly the same on the new board as the old. In other words the lid switch does not seem to be shorted !!! So I returned to my original thinking which is to find out what else down line of the lid switch could short and blow the lid switch fuse and found that the hot water side of the water inlet valve looks like it got hot and melted/distorted the orange plastic inlet solenoid switch covering. And this is wired back to the lid switch fuse.

So I don’t think I needed the new lid switch but might need a water inlet valve. BUT now I am wondering what caused the water inlet valve to fry? Is there something else that could have shorted down line of this?????

My original troubleshooting flow through mythology is not to replace the first obvious thing that has a 4 amp fuse attached to it such as the lid switch, but to eliminate everything that it is inter dependent of that same fuse. Especially since the lid switch always ohmed out OK by itself. But it appears the water inlet valve and the lid switch share the same fuse.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
109,078
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I don't know what caused the water inlet valve solenoid to fry, first time I've seen or heard that happening.

So did you replace the water inlet valve?

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
WP22001274 Water Valve


Jake
 

lookin4help

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2020
Messages
2
Location
usa
so can i jump the m/check switch yellow 2 wires to the black sw lid switch wires and remove check switch all together my crumbled apart when i tried to take wire connection off. please let me know
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
109,078
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
You will need to order the complete lid switch assembly I posted above in post #2. You can't jump them on these models.

Jake
 

lookin4help

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2020
Messages
2
Location
usa
not sure why they say that but fuse wasn't blown just the switch busted when i tried to remove wire connection. if ohms reading were correct it just needs to have the micro switch replaced and they are removable. why would i need to replace assembly? I know it sounds trivial but $25 as apposed $5 for the switch i have a feeling its the timer or the water pressure level thing. lol but there is some repairman showing jumper wire on this assembly. Just what does the check switch do? i just want to water to drain and get clothes out if timer isnt working past filling load to requested level im thinking my issue is something besides lid switch and would just like to by pass it for now since i broke it and until it arrives, thanks in advance
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
109,078
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
It's just a safety check switch, why Maytag did that is beyond me.

All I know is you have to order the complete assembly to get your washer going again.

Jake
 
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