• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

Whirlpool Accubake Model # GW395LEGQ4 - Oven won't Start

crawdad77

Premium Member
Joined
May 23, 2007
Messages
12
Location
Columbus
We own a Whirlpool Gold Accubake Range, Model #GW395LEGQ4. The burners work fine, as does the broiler. However, upon starting the oven, nothing happens. Give it 10 minutes, and it's still cold. No smell of gas either, which is good, at least from a safety standpoint. Can someone please point me to some step by step diagnostics I can use to diagnose where the problem might reside? From other posts, it appears it could be the control panel, gas valve, or ignitor. How do I determine which one?

Thanks,
Sean
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,219
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Sean,

Your range is almost identical to the KitchenAid model that I'm helping another member with the exact same problem.

Here's the thread to that one:
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/showthread.php?t=12391
Do everything I advised colddinner to do.

Here's the parts diagram for your model:
GW395LEGQ4
Diagram#1 Part location#5 is your oven igniter glow bar, Part location#10 is your safety gas valve.
Diagram#4 Part location#18 is your thermal cut-off(thermal fuse).

Jake
 

crawdad77

Premium Member
Joined
May 23, 2007
Messages
12
Location
Columbus
Thanks for the quick response Jake. One simple question - what's the easiest angle to attack this thing to measure the voltage and ohm readings, and replace the glow bar if necessary? Flip the oven it on it's back, so the bottom of the oven is perpendicular to the ground, facing you? Just wondering to see if I need to recruit someone to help me flip it.

Thanks,
Sean
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,219
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
No,

I always get take out the bottom storage drawer, and take the bottom panel off from inside the oven, then you get clear access to everything.

Jake
 

crawdad77

Premium Member
Joined
May 23, 2007
Messages
12
Location
Columbus
OK - here's what I've done thus far. I located the metal box with the word "warning" on it. From that metal box, there were 4 wires. On the bottom of the metal box, a red one in the back, and a white one in the front. On the top, 2 whites. The back white on the top led to the glow-plug to the oven. I removed that connection to expose the metal male prong. I also removed the white wire on the bottom in the front that exposed a female end on the metal box. To re-cap, the range burners and broiler work, but the oven doesn't. So I tested the broiler first. I turned the broiler on, and I placed the leads from my voltmeter on the exposed metal piece on the bottom where I removed the white wire and the exposed metal piece on the top where I removed the white wire to the glow plug. It read 110 v. So then I stopped the broiler, and started the oven. I tested the same connections, and 0 v.

1. Did I test the right connections to the oven glow plug?
2. If the broiler works, and the oven doesn't, can it still be the thermal fuse? I wasn't sure where to uncover the thermal fuse.

Thanks for the help thus far.

Sean
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,219
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, it can still be the thermal fuse.

The thermal fuse is under the front control panel, you should see screws underneath it and on the sides to remove the control panel.

Jake
 

crawdad77

Premium Member
Joined
May 23, 2007
Messages
12
Location
Columbus
Thanks Jake. I'll give that a shot.

One other interesting thing that I found. My tenants (this oven is in an investment property of ours) mentioned that the burner ignitors got "stuck" a few weeks ago. Regardless of what they did (turned dials on/off), unplug the oven/plug it back in, cut the breaker, etc. the ignitors wouldn't turn off when electricity to the unit was restored. Then one day when they returned, they plugged it back in, and everything was fine, except that the oven wouldn't start. When I was checking out where the wires to the oven glow plug led to yesterday, I removed the back access panel. There were a bunch of colored wires that I assume lead to the control panel. A blue one and a purple one were essentially fused to the metal pipe that takes gas to the burners and/or broiler. The plastic on these 2 wires had melted against the metal pipe, exposing the wire. I suspect if the wire came into contact with the gas metal pipe, that could have caused a short to cause the ignitor's to get stuck. I just wrapped the wires in electrical tape. Couple of questions:

1. Have you seen anything like this before? I was surprised the wires weren't wrapped in a potective covering or conduit to prevent this from happening. The oven must have got really, really hot to cause the gas supply line to get hot enough to melt the plastic.
2. Should I be concerned of this happening again? Contact Whirlpool?
3. Do you think a short on these wires could have blown out part of the control panel that fires the oven?

Thanks.
Sean
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,219
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Thanks for that added information Sean, now I know what the bad part is, I've seen this happen a few times before, you will need a new control board, because when those wires shorted to that metal pipe in the back, it shorted out the control board.

Here's the one for your model you can order:
Manufacturer's Number: 9753639



Jake
 

crawdad77

Premium Member
Joined
May 23, 2007
Messages
12
Location
Columbus
New Control Board, but still no oven . . .

Hi Jake - I ordered the new control board from the website you suggested, and put it in today - but the oven still didn't start. I also read up on your conversation with "Colddinner" - and tried some things there as well.

I tested the thermal fuse (the one on the right side), and it does NOT have continuity. The arrow on the ohm-meter didn't budge. So I assume that it's bad, and needs replaced. I also tested the other thermal fuse on the left, and it did have continuity (the arrow moved close to the same position as it did when just touching the 2 leads of the meter together). In both instances, I completely removed the fuses to test them, so no wires were attached to them.

I put the good thermal fuse back in on the left, but kept the bad thermal fuse out, and instead put a piece of copper wire between the two wires that were attached to the bad thermal fuse to jump them. (trying to mimic a good thermal fuse) After doing this, and plugging the oven back in, a whirring sound began (I assume the fan). The whirring sound did not occur when the bad thermal fuse was in. So, I was optimistic. I tried starting the oven, but still nothing. The glow bar still didn't glow.

So, with a new control board, and the thermal fuse jumped, still no glow from the glow bar. Is it possible that the glow bar and thermal fuse went out simultaneously? I'm also confused why the fan would start when the wires were jumped upon plugging the oven in. Do you think it's worth ordering and installing a new thermal fuse, if I wasn't able to get the desired effect by jumping it?

I'm starting to get concerned that those wires being melted to the pipe in the back caused multiple problems that may take too much time, effort and money to diagnose. Any thoughts on a next course of action?

Thanks,
Sean
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,219
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
This is a tough one to figure out, Its probably best to contact Whirlpool to have a tech. come out to go over everything, something more technical may be causing it.

No, theres no need to order the thermal fuse if you jumped it and it still didn't work.

Sorry it didn't work, You can return the control board for a full refund.

Jake
 

crawdad77

Premium Member
Joined
May 23, 2007
Messages
12
Location
Columbus
Hi Jake -

I called Whirlpool, and because of the issue with the melted wires in the back, they sent out a tech, and covered his labor charges. The problem ended up being the glow plug for the oven. When I tested for voltage to it, I must not have done it correctly. I tested it at the silver warning box - but he tested it from behind the access panel. He pulled one end from the silver box, and the other from the power source (yellow wire). When he Ohm'd the 2 glow plug connections, it didn't have continuity. He also tested the supply-line, and it read 120 volts. I think the way I tested the glowplug for getting juice only would have worked if the glowplug was working. If the glowplug didn't have continuity, then there was no way for the electricty to get to the metal box with the word warning on it - and thus why I was reading 0 volts for the oven glow plug. I was testing the wire at exit, not the entry - and with the glowplug bad, it wasn't completing a circuit.

Another thing - he said the thermal fuse on the right should not have continuity while cold. It's reversed - where the fuse completes a circuit when it gets warm, to turn on the oven fan. That's why "colddinner" and I heard the fan kick on when we jumped it. The one on the left should have continuity when cold - which it does.

And as for the burner ignitors getting stuck - probably due to some water seeping down the control panel upon cleaning. It essenitally fixed itself when the water evaporated.

So, 3 unique, but all completely separate problems. He just used a pull tie to keep the wires in the back away from the broiler gas supply line. I'm going to replace to glowplug myself, because his company wanted $110 for it, and I'm not sure if Whirlpool would cover the labor since it was unrelated to the melted wires.

I'll let you know how things end up. Thanks for all the help.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,219
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, thats good that he found out what was going on.

Yea, when I was new at appliance repair 20 years ago, I made so many mistakes about testing voltage myself, but the good thing is we all can learn from our mistakes and next time be a pro at it.:)

Yes, please let us know the final outcome.:)

Jake
 
Top