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FIXED Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6700TW1 OL Issues and Rebuild Questions

samtheman57

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2021
Messages
17
Location
Saint Augustine, FL
Model Number
WTW6700TW1
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Hello:

I'm new to this forum. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or input.

I started having issues with a Whirlpool Cabrio top loading washer a few weeks ago.

The problem is it was not completing spin cycles, on spin, the tub was loudly banging against the sides of the washer, with OL errors on every wash cycle.

I researched You Tube and started with the basics:

1) Checked to make sure washer was level.

2) I replaced the suspension/damping rods with new ones.

3) I checked the stator motor for cracks, and the motor was severely cracked, so I found a used, in good condition motor on eBay and replaced it.

4) Replaced RPS sensor with new one.

I tested the machine through two cycles, (light load and completely empty), and even on low spin, the banging and OL error returned.

I had also noticed some light leaking issues initially as well.

So, now, according to the information I researched, I can either junk it or try to rebuild the shaft, tub seal, and bearing assembly, which was described by one YouTube DIY guy as "Not for the faint of heart".

I consider myself pretty handy, but I'm wondering it's worth the effort and expense.

In relation to the cost of the kit and having a pro install it it's a no-brainer...almost.

Step one is simply removing the wash plate from the agitator, a simple hex bolt, using a 7/16 socket and extensions, and two days of using CRC Freeze Off and PBR Blaster, it's stuck like cement. I've lightly hammered on the bolt head to try to break the rust and debris. It doesn't help that there is no stationary counter-torque either, I can only use one hand to hold the tool and another to keep the tub from spinning. I would appear an impact wrench, another expensive tool that I would rarely use is the only option.

There also seems to be widely varying reviews on aftermarket kits, with some people saying they wished they had gone with OEM specs. The tool to engage the bearing and washers is expensive as well.

This has been absolutely discouraging, money is tight and a new washer is not an option.

I'm old enough to remember when appliances lasted for decades, and at the risk of dating myself, appliances now seem like they are made of plastic and pot metal.

Any input is appreciated.
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
125,270
Location
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Hi,

Yes, we only recommend OEM parts when fixing home appliances.

On this model they make a tub seal/bearing kit assembly. That is what you will need to fix it.

Here's the tub seal and drive shaft repair kit:
Tub Seal and Bearing Kit W10435302


Here's the bearing and seal tool:
Bearing Driver W10447783



Jake
 

samtheman57

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2021
Messages
17
Location
Saint Augustine, FL
Any recommendations on getting the 7/16 wash plate agitator bolt out? Three days of soaking in penetrant (PB Blaster and CRC Freeze off) and there is no way it's coming out with human strength. I'm thinking an impact wrench, even though it seems extreme. I saw one YouTube video that said they had to work on getting that bolt out a bit, even with the impact wrench.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
125,270
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I always carry a impact wrench in my truck for this very occasion when I'm running service calls.:)

Also use Liquid Wrench and Rust Buster on it liberally.

Jake
 

samtheman57

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2021
Messages
17
Location
Saint Augustine, FL
Hi Jake;

Thanks for the response, I was able to borrow a DeWalt 1/4 inch shank impact wrench, although I need a socket. Hopefully, this will break the stubborn bolt without breaking the agitator.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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That should work fine. Fingers crossed. 🤞
 

samtheman57

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2021
Messages
17
Location
Saint Augustine, FL
Hello Jake and anyone following.

Just wanted to update on my progress.

First, the impact wrench removed the bolt holding in literally seconds, so after two days of struggling "Step One" was a relief to get past.

However, not popping any corks on the champagne yet.

The washplate was dead-on stuck as well, so after some careful prying and wriggling, and I was able to get a piece of rope underneath the plate and pull it out without damage.

Next were the plastic hub parts and the metal washer, which came out with medium effort.

Not sure if these need replacing or not , they appear OK.

Also was able to get the outer ring assembly unclipped, and tried pulling the inner tub, one step and halfway there.

No joy, the tub is stuck, and I will likely have to use the jack and 2x4 method to pull it out. I've unfortunately misplaced the jack.

Noticed the tub does not move easily in the vertical plane (I think the basket lifts itself before the spin cycle) and maybe that's why it's throwing the OL still.

Any suggestions are appreciated and at this point wondering about replacing those plastic spline hubs, they seem in good condition.
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Good job so far.(y)

The basket hub doesn't look that bad, but its your choice if you want to replace it or not.

Here's the basket hub for your model:
W10820039 Basket Hub


Video Included in Part link.

Yes, for others following your thread, here's that video of the 2x4 and jack to get the inner tub out:


Jake
 

samtheman57

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2021
Messages
17
Location
Saint Augustine, FL
Update: OK. Feeling better that I have approached this job as a longer-than-a-day affair. I had to purchase a jack from Wal Mart (needed one anyway for the car) and it worked flawlessly, with the aid of scrap 2x4 and I was successful in pulling the tub out. Currently cleaned and airing out in the sun. Unfortunately, one step back as one of the rear hinges sheared off but a small setback. The only thing I see as an issue is the locking nut behind the stator motor. Wondering if I should keep the impact tool in case it needs jarring loose. Almost there, but I had to work a long shift so I am going to order the sheared hinge before proceeding further. Time and patience on this one.
 

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Jake

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Great, your doing very well!

Yes time and patience is the key to this job.:)

Jake
 

samtheman57

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Joined
Oct 24, 2021
Messages
17
Location
Saint Augustine, FL
Hello Everyone and Jake, as always thanks for your help!

I had to take another break to wait for parts, one rear hinge for the lid sheared, so I replaced the pair so I could safely tilt the machine without worrying about the lid coming off.

Happy to say that removing the locknut and pounding the shaft was a minor effort compared to everything else.

Stator motor I had done so that was quick.

Just a large crescent for the locking nut, and vice grips to hold the shaft, and the locknut, rusty as it was, came out without a struggle.

The shaft took a little coaxing to pound back into the tub, assisted with a 2x4 block and a framing hammer, it came out.

Toolkit and remaining parts coming tomorrow to punch out old bearings and put in new ones.

I don't know if a visual inspection is any indication, but the shaft looks pretty beat.

Onward.
 

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samtheman57

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Location
Saint Augustine, FL
OK tools came since the time I posted this, nice surprise! and DONE with disassembly!

Looks like the bearings are in BAD shape as well!

New parts delivered tomorrow but I am really optimistic now.
 

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Jake

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LOL, You are absolutely right, the shaft and bearing have seen BETTER DAYS, you can stick a FORK in BOTH, because they are DONE.:)

Good job so far Sam!

Jake
 

samtheman57

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Joined
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Messages
17
Location
Saint Augustine, FL
Hello again and Jake, thanks for monitoring the progress and the encouragement.

I guess I had trepidation about the final bearing press and seating but with the tool, it went without a hitch.

The only thing I had to do was use a small flat blade to align the center holes between the upper and lower bearings, and the spacer tube, that is so all three were in alignment.The spacer tube hole was out, but it was easy to nudge it back. The new shaft was like butter no tapping needed.

If you can compare the photos of the old parts (above) with the new ones it's pretty evident that this was likely the basis of most of the issues.

So now two questions for Jake:

Is there a more aggressive sealant/adhesive for the tub seal, like a marine-grade that I could pick up at the Hardware store?

I ask because over and over, and after all the hardship and the learning curve here, I REALLY want to make sure there is no water penetration to the bearings.

Is something like this OK?


Second, on the suspension/damper rods, why is the rubber washer in a position midway along the shaft? It makes no sense to me that the washer is "floating" apparently doing nothing.

I'm almost home, but going to let the sealant cure properly.
 

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samtheman57

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Location
Saint Augustine, FL
Crap. It looks like I'm missing the grease that is applied to the tub seal to slide it over the shaft. Can't find it anywhere after checking the package. Any acceptable substitute that can be picked up at the hardware store? For both sealant and grease?
 

Jake

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Good job Sam!

Yes, that sealant from Lowe's is fine to use.

Yes, any grease should be fine.

This is what they recommend:
WP22002123 Tube, Molykote


Jake
 

samtheman57

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
17
Location
Saint Augustine, FL
OK, Final phase before putting the outer tub back. I got some grease and a marine sealant by 3M at Lowes.

I gently tapped to sink the seal as per instructions.

Just letting it set up to cure for a day.

Fingers crossed.
 

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Jake

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Sounds good Sam, keep us posted.

Jake
 

samtheman57

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Joined
Oct 24, 2021
Messages
17
Location
Saint Augustine, FL
Hi Jake:

Good news and bad news.

It appears that the basic fill, drain and agitation cycles work fine.

No leaks from the tub to the bottom of the washer.

Seems to run a bit more quietly, especially agitation.

Unfortunately, the spin cycle is still completely dysfunctional it just won't spin out without banging loudly and throwing an OL error.

I leveled both fronts to back and side to side, with a level bubble in both directions, and no joy.

I just wonder if I wasted my time here, as I have subsequently found out, the washer is about ten years old.

Yet with the stator, sensor, new bearings, and shaft, I've basically rebuilt/replaced everything but the main control board.

I was able to run a small load and back to drip dry, unfortunately, that's where I was before I spent any money.

I wonder if it's because the inner tub isn't "floating" on spin cycle?


Thanks for all the help so far.
 

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