- Model Number
- DU1345XTVQ2
- Brand
- Whirlpool
- Age
- 6-10 years
Hello everyone. At first this dishwasher had erratic behavior like randomly switching lights without user input, all lights coming on, different lights flashing, and stopping mid cycle.
I opened it up and noticed that capacitor C132 on the control board was bulged and had leaked fluid. I replaced it with one I had laying around to determine if anything else needs to be replaced. It has the right specs, but I'm not sure if it is a good capacitor as it is several years old. It passes the resistance test on a DMM - you get a reading at first, then it rises and eventually reads OL. When separated and connected to a 9v battery, it reads around 6 V when released then slowly discharges, so I guess it's fine.
I also tried different key combinations to reset the washer, it seems like "heated dry, normal, heated dry, normal" was the only one that worked.
Since replacing the cap and resetting, the only problems I get are stopping mid-cycle and flashing just the Normal light.
I've performed two tests in the tech sheet which gave conflicting results. It says that this is caused by either a short in the keypad or in the control board's input lines that read the keys. The first test it directs me to is to unplug the keypad from the control board and power on. The drain turns on, which means the control board is OK and I should "check or replace the keypad"
But when I do their test to check the keypad by testing its pins with a DMM set to measure diodes, everything tests OK and the tech sheet says to replace the control board. This result, plus being unsure about the capacitor, and therefore the board, is making me uneasy about paying so much for a control panel because I haven't seen these issues in other "normal light blinking" threads.
So looking for some guidance on what's going on here and what I should try replacing first. The door switches seem to test fine on the DMM and I don't see anything else visibly faulty. Thanks for reading.
I opened it up and noticed that capacitor C132 on the control board was bulged and had leaked fluid. I replaced it with one I had laying around to determine if anything else needs to be replaced. It has the right specs, but I'm not sure if it is a good capacitor as it is several years old. It passes the resistance test on a DMM - you get a reading at first, then it rises and eventually reads OL. When separated and connected to a 9v battery, it reads around 6 V when released then slowly discharges, so I guess it's fine.
I also tried different key combinations to reset the washer, it seems like "heated dry, normal, heated dry, normal" was the only one that worked.
Since replacing the cap and resetting, the only problems I get are stopping mid-cycle and flashing just the Normal light.
I've performed two tests in the tech sheet which gave conflicting results. It says that this is caused by either a short in the keypad or in the control board's input lines that read the keys. The first test it directs me to is to unplug the keypad from the control board and power on. The drain turns on, which means the control board is OK and I should "check or replace the keypad"
But when I do their test to check the keypad by testing its pins with a DMM set to measure diodes, everything tests OK and the tech sheet says to replace the control board. This result, plus being unsure about the capacitor, and therefore the board, is making me uneasy about paying so much for a control panel because I haven't seen these issues in other "normal light blinking" threads.
So looking for some guidance on what's going on here and what I should try replacing first. The door switches seem to test fine on the DMM and I don't see anything else visibly faulty. Thanks for reading.
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