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FIXED Whirlpool Dishwasher WDT790SAYM0 won’t run always

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Mdhwoods

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Oct 23, 2021
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11
Location
Florida
Model Number
WDT790SAYM0
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Have a WDT790SAYM0 gold series dishwasher that’s been acting up. Symptom is cycle will start filling, then flash the clean led. If I try and resume will fill some more and flash again. If I institute a cancel and drain, run kitchen sink hot water and then start another cycle it will run fully most times.

Ran diag and figured I’d get low inlet temp error but did not. I got a 9-1,10-1 and a 9-2. one is dispensers think but seem to find different code descriptions. Thanks in advance for help.

Added complete model number
 
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Mdhwoods

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Florida
Ok after further searching look like a diverter issue. Taking a look underneath all is dry but the divertor housing has what looks like calcification from a possible leak at one time. I’m guessing I need to replace the divertor motor and sump as it doesn’t seem the seal is sold separately.
 

Jake

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WDT790SAY is just a partial model number, we need the complete model number.

The model number tag is located inside the door on the tub frame.

Yes, you'd need to replace both the diverter motor and diverter motor seal, which only comes pre-installed in the sump assembly.

Jake
 

Jake

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I don't see a WDT790SAY01 listed, are you sure that 0 is not a B?

This one comes up as good--->WDT790SAYB1

If your having difficulty reading it, use your photo to take a photo of it, then upload the photo here.

Jake
 

Jake

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Perfect! I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

Your tech. data sheet says this--->Can Start a Cycle, but Only Runs for a Short Time - Cycle Does Not Complete (Clean LED or Completed May Blink) which means--->Control canceled cycle due to error detected with wash motor.

We have been having quite a bit of these wash motors failing as of late, I always use my multimeter and set it on AC volts and remove the electrical connector to the wash motor and put the multimeter probes in it, if you have 120 volts at the wash motor electrical connector and the wash motor will not run, when it should be running, then its bad.

If your meter leads are too big, use this safety pin trick:
safety pin 500x250.jpg


Look at post #7 here: FIXED 665.13472N411 What to check on why it only washes about 5% of the cycle.
dishwash120volts.jpg

Here's the wash(circulation) motor for your model:
whirlpool-mp-sngl-phase-wpw10510667-ap6022492_01_m.jpg


Jake
 

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Mdhwoods

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Florida
Curious why error codes 9-1 and 9-2 are being thrown and we don’t think that’s the issue. As I stated, once I run a drain after it initially won’t start 99% of the time it will run and complete a wash. It never fails once the cycle get past the initial start, it always fully completes. I can hear it fill, then a click and then the flashing clean. Once I cancel and drain then start it again it will usually complete the cycle. It fills, then I here a click the then wash motor kicks on briefly, then it finishes filling and cycle as expected. I know it does a check on diverted position during the time. Thanks again for the response. It’s never not completed a cycle once it gets past the initial fill.
 

Jake

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I was thinking the diverter motor and diverter seal are another problem too, since you saw wet stains there.

So you may have 2 problems.

Read what it says to check in the tech. data sheet for 9-1 and 9-2.

Here's the sump assembly for your model:
WPW10455268 Sump


Here's the diverter motor for your model:
W10537869 Motor


Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good.

Jake
 

Mdhwoods

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Changed out the motor, same issue. Once cycle starts it will complete, but after initial fill, if it doesn’t start then the clean light flashes. Won’t pass diag either when it gets to test the circulating motor. I hear a click and the control turns off. I hate to just throw things at it, but I didn’t feel it was the motor initially because once it was able to start, it would and it would complete. How do i test the sense circuit and see if its a controller issue? Also changed out the diverter and sump. There was clearly a leak at some point in that area.

I was able to successfuly run a full cycle with the new parts just like i could prior to replacing the motor.
 

Jake

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I'm really not understanding, what do you mean by this:
I was able to successfuly run a full cycle with the new parts just like i could prior to replacing the motor.
You mean it will run fine at times, then other times not? Intermittent problems are the hardest to nail down.

I'm attaching the schematic for testing the wash motor.

Jake
 

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  • servicepointer-w10508910-testingthegwswashmotor.pdf
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Mdhwoods

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No. When it fails it is always at the point the wash motor starts on the initial clean. Right after the 1st fill. Once it’s past that, it will always clean fully.

So as long as it gets past this point it will always fully wash. If at this point the wash motor doesn’t do more then a quick blip it will error out with a flashing clean light.

start a wash. It will drain from 0-60 seconds, it will then fill for 1:02 then the wash motor will do 1 of 2 things. It will blip, then the control clicks then the clean light flashes. Or the wash motor will cycle for a few seconds, then it will fill a bit more and continue successfully through the entire wash. This is repeatable. Never fails anywhere else
 
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Jake

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Got it now! Thanks!

Jake
 

Mdhwoods

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Any idea what its checking for at that point? I’m going to pull the front panel off and look at the control board just to see if there is anything obvious. But based on the schematic, there really isn’t much in that circuit. Does the control look for some type of Current check right after the fill? i am leaning to the control board, would be nice to have one to plug in and confirm before dropping the money on it. Does it look at any other sensors at that time?

Thanks
 

Jake

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After the fill the control board tells the wash motor to come on and run, so its possibly your control board is starting to fail.

Here's the control board for your model:
W10482988 Electronic Control Board


Jake
 

Mdhwoods

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Good morning. Will error codes clear once diag mode is run and passes? Or do they need to be manually cleared?
 

Jake

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Let's do this first:
Run the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE, and let it run all the way through to reset it back to default.

Entry sequence: Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”
The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

--->Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

LET IT RUN ALL THE WAY THROUGH: Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes.

Do that now, and report back.:)

Jake
 

Mdhwoods

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Location
Florida
bought the control board, as i was pretty sure that was the issue. It had some user error codes from the get go which i assume were from when it was taken out of where ever It came from. I wanted to clear those but just let it run, then ran a cycle which completed with no issue. Pulled my control board apart and found a bad cap, so ill fix mine and have a spare.
 
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